Changing 4.6L Timing Chains

[Tommy Gun]

Gonna tackle the timing chains on the Track car next weekend.

Anyone have experience in this?

Looks simple, but time consuming on paper.


http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtCM-6004-462V.doc.pdf

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[Tommy Gun]

Also changing oil pan to a high capacity Canton pan and adding a Cobra oil pump.


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[The Bone]

Why would you change the chains? it can't be fun

[Tommy Gun]

Why would you change the chains? it can't be fun


4.6L's have weak oil pumps at high rpm's.

In order to change the oil pump to a Cobra pump I have to remove the chains.

If I have to remove them I might as well replace them.

Also the oil pan needs to be dropped so I'm changing that and adding a Windage tray.

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[Joe G]

4.6L's have weak oil pumps at high rpm's.

In order to change the oil pump to a Cobra pump I have to remove the chains.

If I have to remove them I might as well replace them.

Also the oil pan needs to be dropped so I'm changing that and adding a Windage tray.

.

Are you changing the cams at the same time? Might as well while the engine is 1/2 apart.

[CH53Driver]

4.6L's have weak oil pumps at high rpm's.

In order to change the oil pump to a Cobra pump I have to remove the chains.

If I have to remove them I might as well replace them.

Also the oil pan needs to be dropped so I'm changing that and adding a Windage tray.

.

Sounds like a good plan.

[CH53Driver]

Are you changing the cams at the same time? Might as well while the engine is 1/2 apart.

Hmmm...at this rate this is going to become a complete engine rebuild.:doh2:

[Tommy Gun]

Are you changing the cams at the same time? Might as well while the engine is 1/2 apart.


I did think about it, but I have never messed w/ an OHC motor before.

Took me long enough to talk myself into doing the double timing chains.


Not that I talk to myself. :innocent:

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[Matthew]

Personally, I think it is easier to get the timing set lined up on the 4.6-2V than it is on a 302 or 351W. Just lay the chains out on the bench and mark the end links (paint stick is a good choice), then line the marked links up to the marks on the gears, and you are smiling. One of the keys is to make sure that you don't jump a link when you release the tensioner, and absolutely positively do not turn the motor backwards, even a tiny little bit before you get oil pressure or you can jump a link. The biggest hassle with this job is pulling the front cover.

If you don't have an SFI balancer, now would be a great time to put one on too.

Good luck.

-Matthew

[Tommy Gun]

Thanks for the info! :wtg:


I have the tools to hold the cams and crank in place so nothing will move.

Chains are from Ford Racing so they are already marked.

Hoping to have front bumper and radiator out of the way as well to gain easier access.

Gotta pull the Procharger as well. fun fun

[Tommy Gun]

I have a Steeda underdrive harmonic balancer/pulley.

I believe it is SFI rated?

I don't run any sanctioned events though.

[Matthew]

When I did this on my 02 for a heads/cam/intake (P51) upgrade I just reused the stock chains, but the stockers were not marked. Some of them are, but not all of them. Anyway, if you have a set that is already marked you should have no problems. The Steeda underdrive kit I have uses a Powerbond SFI balancer which is a good item. The reason for a good balancer has less to do with sanctioning rules than it does with managing harmonics and keeping it together at high RPM. The rubber retained factory units have a lot more problems under high stress conditions, especially when they get a little old and the rubber starts to deteriorate a little bit. It sounds like you are all set. Don't let anyone psych you out on this job - it is lots of work, but it really isn't that complicated. As I said, I think it is easier to put these chains on and line them up than it is on a 302 or 351W where you have to slide both sprockets and the chain onto the crank and cam at the same time.

-Matthew

[Tommy Gun]

When I did this on my 02 for a heads/cam/intake (P51) upgrade I just reused the stock chains, but the stockers were not marked. Some of them are, but not all of them. Anyway, if you have a set that is already marked you should have no problems. The Steeda underdrive kit I have uses a Powerbond SFI balancer which is a good item. The reason for a good balancer has less to do with sanctioning rules than it does with managing harmonics and keeping it together at high RPM. The rubber retained factory units have a lot more problems under high stress conditions, especially when they get a little old and the rubber starts to deteriorate a little bit. It sounds like you are all set. Don't let anyone psych you out on this job - it is lots of work, but it really isn't that complicated. As I said, I think it is easier to put these chains on and line them up than it is on a 302 or 351W where you have to slide both sprockets and the chain onto the crank and cam at the same time.

-Matthew


Tell me about this P-51 intake?

Did you just change to match your cams or is it an improvement in itself?

Who makes it?

.

[68fastback]

...prolly the intake on the Roush P-51 4.6 mustang. Couldn't find a pic.

[Joe G]

:innocent:


http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/1064-p-51-intake-manifold.html

http://www.foxlakeracing.com/fox_mod.php

http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang/135958-p51-intake.html

http://www.reinhartperformance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=FM-P51I&Category_Code=7

[68fastback]

...similar design to the Ford Racing piece (sort of) but probably doesn't 'baloon' under boost -lol-

[Tommy Gun]

Got everything ready for install over the weekend, front bumper off for easier access and anti-freeze already drained so I can get the radiator out of the way as well.



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09357.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09358.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09360.jpg


Hi Perf. water pump


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09361.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09362.jpg



Cobra Oil Pump

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09363.jpg



Lots of parts. :faint:

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09365.jpg


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09364.jpg


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[Joe G]

Hi Perf. water pump


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09361.jpg








Nice coil packs. :nonono:

[Tommy Gun]

He's gonna keel you. :nonono:












:rofl:


Actually reject works out kinda good.

Me and my buddies got kicked out of Scouts when we got older.

We snuck out one too many times late at night to hike to the 7-Eleven 2 miles down the road. :hiding:


You would have thought we got a hiking badge or something?


Well that and the huge bonfire we started one night at 2 am which brought the Police helicopter in.



....and always throwing closed cans of spaghetti-O's in the fire and not knowing when they would explode.


...and....





You can't make this stuff up. :rofl3:

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[Tommy Gun]

Starting the work today.

Just trying to think the logistics out.

Gotta pull the radiator and S/C off.
Gotta remove the valve covers.
Get the timing near TDC.

Then gotta lift the motor a couple inches w/ an engine bay hoist which I've never used before.

Hoping this works... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

Then remove the oil pan.


I just can't get a straight answer on putting back together. I assume the front cover would be back on and the oil pick-up tube and then the oil pan.

Just not sure there is room to get the pan on w/ the tube in place. I have seen talk of bolting on the oil pick-up tube after the pan is on, but w/ the front cover off. Seems kinda weird. I guess I'll see when I get there.

Sure is different than than old 302/289 motors w/ the pump and pick-up in the pan.

[The Bone]

Are you doing this without the book:clap: Real men don't need directions just get some.
It goes back together the same way it came apart. just in reverse order

[68fastback]

Starting the work today.

Just trying to think the logistics out.

Gotta pull the radiator and S/C off.
Gotta remove the valve covers.
Get the timing near TDC.

Then gotta lift the motor a couple inches w/ an engine bay hoist which I've never used before.

Hoping this works... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

Then remove the oil pan.


I just can't get a straight answer on putting back together. I assume the front cover would be back on and the oil pick-up tube and then the oil pan.

Just not sure there is room to get the pan on w/ the tube in place. I have seen talk of bolting on the oil pick-up tube after the pan is on, but w/ the front cover off. Seems kinda weird. I guess I'll see when I get there.

Sure is different than than old 302/289 motors w/ the pump and pick-up in the pan.

Where does that mount? On the under-hood fender lip?

Buy some snacks and MC will will be over in a jiffy to help :biggrin:

[68fastback]

Actually reject works out kinda good.

Me and my buddies got kicked out of Scouts when we got older.

We snuck out one too many times late at night to hike to the 7-Eleven 2 miles down the road. :hiding:


You would have thought we got a hiking badge or something?


Well that and the huge bonfire we started one night at 2 am which brought the Police helicopter in.



....and always throwing closed cans of spaghetti-O's in the fire and not knowing when they would explode.


...and....





You can't make this stuff up. :rofl3:

.

Li'l TG was a big cut-up, eh? :shades: ;-)

[Tommy Gun]

Where does that mount? On the under-hood fender lip?

Buy some snacks and MC will will be over in a jiffy to help :biggrin:


Yes fits on the fender lip.

This has been a total pain in the butt.

Not only does the engine need to be held by the hoist and raised a little, but I had to drop the K Member pretty far.

I even have an aftermarket K member and people told me the pan would come right out.....not even close.

Tomorrow I'll find out how the even larger pan will go back in.

One of the biggest pains was removing the drivers side valve cover, took me 45 minutes to an hour. Total screw up design by Ford engineers.

I have run into several things they totally screwed up. There placement of bolts is amazing on this engine. :banghead:

So far everything is apart and chains are back on.

I haven't rotated the engine to check that everything clears and is correct yet.

I didn't want to lose sleep tonight if it is screwed up.

I hate timing chains. Two is even worse.

.

[68fastback]

Doesn't sound easy at all, but you got a lot done !!

...what's the hang-up with the pan coming off: pick-up tube or just no place to get it down and out? ...at least the crank counterweights aren't in the way on the modulars.

Bill, does the Canton use the same pick-up? In any event, it's a good idea to mock-fit the new pan. Tape a thin piece of cardboard over bottom of pick-up and tape lump of softened modelling clay to it. Then mock-fit the new pan (no bolts needed as long as you can push it snug all around) to determine pick-up clearance. You would not be the first person to lose an engine after a new oil pan due to insufficient clearance oil starvation at high revs ...just a thought.

[Tommy Gun]

Doesn't sound easy at all, but you got a lot done !!

...what's the hang-up with the pan coming off: pick-up tube or just no place to get it down and out? ...at least the crank counterweights aren't in the way on the modulars.

Bill, does the Canton use the same pick-up? In any event, it's a good idea to mock-fit the new pan. Tape a thin piece of cardboard over bottom of pick-up and tape lump of softened modelling clay to it. Then mock-fit the new pan (no bolts needed as long as you can push it snug all around) to determine pick-up clearance. You would not be the first person to lose an engine after a new oil pan due to insufficient clearance oil starvation at high revs ...just a thought.


Hang up is the tube.

I will check clearance.

I forgot about the clay. I can do that.

I should have good clearance now, but we'll see tomorrow.

I'm worried about the windage tray fit, but I guess Canton has done hundreds of these so shouldn't be a problem.

I think I'll get rid of my GT500 before I ever have these issues w/ needing a timing chain.


On this motor you hold the back of the cams w/ special tools that lock it in place....problem is...when to lift the motor it pushes up against the firewall and against these tools.

One loosened enough on me that it came off and I just put the 2nd chain on and the cam slipped and the chain went off a tooth.

Man what an ordeal to get it back right.

I spent 8 hours on this today. One hour wasted on the drivers side valve cover, one hour wasted on stupidly placed bolts from Ford that require you to remove unnecessary things to get at them, and one hour wasted on getting the chain tooth back and tightened down.

.

[68fastback]

...ouch ...this is something that would be beyond me without a lift (and probably even with a lift -lol). You rock, Bill. Hope it goes back together with less hassels.

This sounds like somthing that would be a lot easier the second (or 5th) time around ...that is if you survive the first :rofl3:

[Gr8snkbite]

We could have had the whole eng out in an hour.....Easy peasy.....then rock and roll with the changes.....:doh2:

[Joe G]

Even though it's been an ordeal that I'm sure you're not enjoying right now, these are the jobs that you look back and admire (with a bit an evil laugh) that you survived and made it through.

You have more patience than I, that's for sure. I enjoy challenges, but stuff like this scare the heck outta me since one wrong boo-boo and you're searching out a new engine. :yikes:


Best of luck tomorrow... oh and don't forget... :needpics:

[Tommy Gun]

We could have had the whole eng out in an hour.....Easy peasy.....then rock and roll with the changes.....:doh2:


Exactly.

That would have been the way to do this.

Everything I read up on said other wise.....they lied. LOL

[Tommy Gun]

Even though it's been an ordeal that I'm sure you're not enjoying right now, these are the jobs that you look back and admire (with a bit an evil laugh) that you survived and made it through.

You have more patience than I, that's for sure. I enjoy challenges, but stuff like this scare the heck outta me since one wrong boo-boo and you're searching out a new engine. :yikes:


Best of luck tomorrow... oh and don't forget... :needpics:



I've been taking some pics along the way.

I'm thinking about starting a new thread and advising people not to try this at home, or at least w/o a lift and some experience.

[Tommy Gun]

Valve cover pics, none of this made it to the heads or valvetrain that I can see?


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09370.jpg


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09369.jpg


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09368.jpg


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09367.jpg




Engine bay hoist...


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09375.jpg



New chains, tensioners, guides installed...


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09380.jpg

.

[Tommy Gun]

My garage sucks. :nonono:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09377.jpg


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[The Bone]

Ford uses bolts that are way to long for the job. Puts in way to many different size bolts to hold on he same part. Like the water pump.I wonder how long the book says a technician has to do this job? Looks like you got it handled. it would be nice to have some help. If I was closer I would come by and give you a hand. I bet you cant count how many times you went under the car and came back out for a different wrench.
How bad is the white stuff? looks like it is only in a few spots. if you had a head gasket problem that stuff would be every where.

[68fastback]

:canada: is our 'hat' and brylcream goes on hair -- makes perfect sense. :shades:

---

Bill, when I pulled the Taurus valve cover I never saw anything like that :yikes: ...that's just not right. I'm starting to wonder if that's the combination of sustained high revs with moisture that is not evaporating even when the engine gets fully hot (even for extended periods) due to a blockage or other malfunction in the PCV system. The moisture is then getting whipped by the crank counterweights (the 2Vs cheek counterweights are not especially aero) into a froth which doesn't 'colapse' because the water has changed it into this cream emulsion. I wonder if the PCV valve is sticking ...or a hose is clogged with this stuff ..or ??

It's normal for the oil to get wrapped like taffy around the crank at high revs (I've seen x-ray imaging of engines showing this) often holding well over a quart (!) of oil in suspension. The BOSS/5.0 (which rev to 7500) uses a special windage tray that helps purge the oil-wrap from the crank and the design of the engine is such that oil runs back to the pan via in-block channels (new to the 5.0) that avoid the crank. Your new windage tray might help prevent G-forces from making pan oil accessible to the crank -- dunno, but there is a moisture problem and given your oil test showing very low moisture it has to be in that emulsion, and that's likely why it's white ...gotta be, I think.

I'd bet if you put a bunch of that stuff in a pan and heat it on the stove (stirring constantly), as it drives off the H2O it will eventually colapse into an oily liquid (...and eventually darken/burn).

What seems amazing is that it is so effectively holding the moisture that none is staying in the oil itself ...maybe the high revs of racing are just emulsifying it that effectively or ??

Tell CP you're making a 5W30 Bundt Cake :biggrin:

[Tommy Gun]

:canada: is our 'hat' and brylcream goes on hair -- makes perfect sense. :shades:

---

Bill, when I pulled the Taurus valve cover I never saw anything like that :yikes: ...that's just not right. I'm starting to wonder if that's the combination of sustained high revs with moisture that is not evaporating even when the engine gets fully hot (even for extended periods) due to a blockage or other malfunction in the PCV system. The moisture is then getting whipped by the crank counterweights (the 2Vs cheek counterweights are not especially aero) into a froth which doesn't 'colapse' because the water has changed it into this cream emulsion. I wonder if the PCV valve is sticking ...or a hose is clogged with this stuff ..or ??

It's normal for the oil to get wrapped like taffy around the crank at high revs (I've seen x-ray imaging of engines showing this) often holding well over a quart (!) of oil in suspension. The BOSS/5.0 (which rev to 7500) uses a special windage tray that helps purge the oil-wrap from the crank and the design of the engine is such that oil runs back to the pan via in-block channels (new to the 5.0) that avoid the crank. Your new windage tray might help prevent G-forces from making pan oil accessible to the crank -- dunno, but there is a moisture problem and given your oil test showing very low moisture it has to be in that emulsion, and that's likely why it's white ...gotta be, I think.

I'd bet if you put a bunch of that stuff in a pan and heat it on the stove (stirring constantly), as it drives off the H2O it will eventually colapse into an oily liquid (...and eventually darken/burn).

What seems amazing is that it is so effectively holding the moisture that none is staying in the oil itself ...maybe the high revs of racing are just emulsifying it that effectively or ??

Tell CP you're making a 5W30 Bundt Cake :biggrin:


That stuff was no where in the valvetrain, oil pan or front cover. Only on tops of the covers.

The windage tray did not go in. :nonono:

There was no way it would physically fit. I double checked the pics of it on Cantons site and I don't see how it would work w/ the pick-up tube.

Even if I put the tube on after the pan.

I have a Cobra pick-up tube which at least has scrapers.

I have noticed on the Canton site mention of cutting off the scrapers so the windage tray would fit, but it wouldn't even fit w/ my stock tube.

I've heard of fitment problems w/ Canton, but thought that was in the past.

I bought a package deal and the windage tray was included.

Perhaps I can just sell it, because it works w/ other stock trays, including 5.4L.


I had a myriad of other troubles today.

For one, if I ever find out who designed the bolts and fittings on a P/S pump for a 4.6 Mustang I'm gonna tell him a few choice words.

I will probably run into him working at McDonald's because he sure doesn't know crap about engineering.

I challenge anyone to remove/install a pump on a 99-04 Mustang and tell me they don't think the same thing. :banghead:


Car is basically done and runs good, although it is still in the garage and needs the hood and front bumper put back on.

I have spent 16 hours total. I have spent less time putting in shortblocks from start to finish. :nonono:

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[Tommy Gun]

Another thing.

This is the pan I put in my car.... http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-784

It says it will give a 7 quart capacity, but I had to put in 8 to 8-1/4 quarts?

I checked it a few times after running and getting the pressure up.

I'll have to check w/ Mastersmech, he has the same pan.

[68fastback]

That stuff was no where in the valvetrain, oil pan or front cover. Only on tops of the covers.

The windage tray did not go in. :nonono:

There was no way it would physically fit. I double checked the pics of it on Cantons site and I don't see how it would work w/ the pick-up tube.

Even if I put the tube on after the pan.

I have a Cobra pick-up tube which at least has scrapers.

I have noticed on the Canton site mention of cutting off the scrapers so the windage tray would fit, but it wouldn't even fit w/ my stock tube.

I've heard of fitment problems w/ Canton, but thought that was in the past.

I bought a package deal and the windage tray was included.

Perhaps I can just sell it, because it works w/ other stock trays, including 5.4L.


I had a myriad of other troubles today.

For one, if I ever find out who designed the bolts and fittings on a P/S pump for a 4.6 Mustang I'm gonna tell him a few choice words.

I will probably run into him working at McDonald's because he sure doesn't know crap about engineering.

I challenge anyone to remove/install a pump on a 99-04 Mustang and tell me they don't think the same thing. :banghead:


Car is basically done and runs good, although it is still in the garage and needs the hood and front bumper put back on.

I have spent 16 hours total. I have spent less time putting in shortblocks from start to finish. :nonono:

.

Bill, the pick--up tube has scrapers? Not understanding that. Or did you mean the windage tray?

What a PITA!

So that white stuff only accumulates where things would condense -- on the highest-up parts. Definately points to an emulsion condensate.


Another thing.

This is the pan I put in my car.... http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-784

It says it will give a 7 quart capacity, but I had to put in 8 to 8-1/4 quarts?

I checked it a few times after running and getting the pressure up.

I'll have to check w/ Mastersmech, he has the same pan.

That pan looks nicely made. 8+ qts! Well, nice big pan will help oil cooling. ;-)

At least it's done now -- soon will be time to :frolic: at vir :chirp:

---

Bill ...another solution on the running out revs down the straight: taller rear tires and turn up the boost another half# so the taller tires don't slow you down :biggrin: ...cheaper than gears and new tranny by far.


[edit:] Ooo ooo, check this post out (http://www.boss302forum.com/index.php?/topic/13329-2012-boss-302-mustang-allocation/page__view__findpost__p__261690)!! Ray Skillman has your BOSS waiting ...at MSRP -- really! In Indy ...Davey can pick it up for ya :biggrin:

[Tommy Gun]

My pic up tube looks like this...

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6600D46/1996-04-Mustang-46L-2V-4V-High-Volume-Ford-Racing-Oil-Pump

The windage tray would have been nice, but no biggie.

I'll get Monkey Boy and Chef to get into a bid war over it. :shades:

Oh, and about extra boost....give me a sec.....gotta find a pic....

[Tommy Gun]

I found this between the radiator and front bumper. :nonono:

It is the boost tube just after my intercooler, heading toward the MAF and TB.

I have probably been missing quite a bit of boost for a while now. :banghead:

The tube is completely disconnected, hard to really tell from the pic.

I guess I had plenty of boosted air running through my radiator. :banghead:

.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09386.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

Water pumps.

My new Hi Po pump w/ an extra vane....but I sorta like the factory pump w/ it's shroud.



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09383.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

My nemesis, the factory P/S pump.

You can not remove this pump w/o breaking the lines.

If you look, the bolt head is directly behind where the fitting goes.

So you have to make a complete mess to get to the bolt.

Also w/ that tab shown on the bolt, you cannot completely tighten the bolt til the connection is remade because it turns and there is no way to hold it.

AND... when you make the connection it is near impossible to completely tighten w/ the tab in the way.

So both pieces contradict each other.

Really a stupid stupid design flaw.



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09387.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09381.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09382.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

Exciting video :rofl3:



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/th_MOV09384.jpg (http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/?action=view&current=MOV09384.mp4)

[The Bone]

Looks good TG Not bad for 16 hours of work. So you have it running? Very impressive indeed. Power steering is overrated.

[68fastback]

I found this between the radiator and front bumper. :nonono:

It is the boost tube just after my intercooler, heading toward the MAF and TB.

I have probably been missing quite a bit of boost for a while now. :banghead:

The tube is completely disconnected, hard to really tell from the pic.

I guess I had plenty of boosted air running through my radiator. :banghead:

.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09386.jpg

:shock: There's ya problem! -lol.

So now you'll run out of 4th gear even sooner.

[Tommy Gun]

:shock: There's ya problem! -lol.

So now you'll run out of 4th gear even sooner.



Don't say that. :nonono:

.

[Tommy Gun]

I only had this much stuff left over! :yay:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09388.jpg





:rofl3:

.

[Tommy Gun]

Shelby is happy to be back in it's place. :grin:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09389.jpg

.

[Tommy Gun]

Are those grenade pins?



Yes.

The P/S engineer really pissed me off. :trouble:

.

[HSURB]

Shelby is happy to be back in it's place. :grin:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09389.jpg

.

Makes me want to go up and see my car.

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

On a side note, I had thought that maybe my fan wasn't working.

After driving it a mile and getting back home it warmed up to 205 degrees.

I checked the fan and it wasn't running, I checked the connection. :nonono:

So where can I find a good aftermarket w/ thermostat?

How do I know how many CFM a factory fan is to get something comparable?

.

[Birdman]

Alwasy best to buy an OEM fan not an aftermarket fan. One like an 02 Cobra fan........:hiding:

[Tommy Gun]

Alwasy best to buy an OEM fan not an aftermarket fan. One like an 02 Cobra fan........:hiding:


Thanks.

I was kinda hoping for a thinner fan since my Moster S/C sits against my factory fan and actually pushes the fan thermostat out of it's housing a bit.

[68fastback]

I don't think there is no 2002 Cobra, but a 2001 Cobra fan might fit.

...or something like this (http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077386-flex-a-lite-black-magic-extreme-electric-fan-w-adustable-thermostat-160-240-3300-cfm-amp-draw-18.html) one which includes adjustable thermostat?? Flexalite also makes a dual-12" that's only 2 5/8" deep but it draws ore current than this one and it flows 500 CFM less.

[The Bone]

Check the fan to make sure it isn't broken. It could just be the thermostat. It could just be the relay.

[Tommy Gun]

I don't think there is no 2002 Cobra, but a 2001 Cobra fan might fit.

...or something like this (http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077386-flex-a-lite-black-magic-extreme-electric-fan-w-adustable-thermostat-160-240-3300-cfm-amp-draw-18.html) one which includes adjustable thermostat?? Flexalite also makes a dual-12" that's only 2 5/8" deep but it draws ore current than this one and it flows 500 CFM less.


$300 ? :faint:


Here is a 2003 Cobra fan

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-139


Here is my fan...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-138/


I don't know what the difference is?

http://www.summitracing.com/compare.aspx


Looking strictly at the pics, mine looks like the Cobra fan w/ the thermostat in teh upper right.

[Tommy Gun]

Check the fan to make sure it isn't broken. It could just be the thermostat. It could just be the relay.


I'm gonna do that first, just don't really know how to check the thermostat?

Not really sure how to make the fan come on w/o out heating up the car either.

Gotta look into this.

[Tommy Gun]

Good pic of my fan and thermostat


http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Mustang/RadiatorFanAssemblies/AM-59453668/153732.html?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=2002&utm_content=RFA

[Birdman]

I don't think there is no 2002 Cobra, but a 2001 Cobra fan might fit.

...or something like this (http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077386-flex-a-lite-black-magic-extreme-electric-fan-w-adustable-thermostat-160-240-3300-cfm-amp-draw-18.html) one which includes adjustable thermostat?? Flexalite also makes a dual-12" that's only 2 5/8" deep but it draws ore current than this one and it flows 500 CFM less.

Seriously though I would not....not use an aftermarket fan.....I've been down that road nothing beats a Ford Cobra fan for these cars especially on a track car.

[Tommy Gun]

Seriously though I would not....not use an aftermarket fan.....I've been down that road nothing beats a Ford Cobra fan for these cars especially on a track car.


I'll trust your judgement.

First things first I need to find out if it is getting power.


Anyone happen to know how to over ride so I can check for power w/o getting the car hot enough for it to turn on?

How I would check the fan thermostat?

[Birdman]

I'll trust your judgement.

First things first I need to find out if it is getting power.


Anyone happen to know how to over ride so I can check for power w/o getting the car hot enough for it to turn on?

How I would check the fan thermostat?

You need to look at the wiring diagram first. follow the feed from the fuse to the thermostat then the fan.....one step at a time. If the tt is sensitive to air temp you could always use a hair dryer or heat gun along with a thermometer and see what temp it makes the circuit at.

Some fan tt's utilize an engine probe type sensor....I'm not sure what your system uses :shades:

[Tommy Gun]

You need to look at the wiring diagram first. follow the feed from the fuse to the thermostat then the fan.....one step at a time. If the tt is sensitive to air temp you could always use a hair dryer or heat gun along with a thermometer and see what temp it makes the circuit at.

Some fan tt's utilize an engine probe type sensor....I'm not sure what your system uses :shades:


I can expose the fan thermostat in 10 seconds. It sits at the top corner of the fan shroud.

You can see it in this link http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Mustang/RadiatorFanAssemblies/AM-59453668/153732.html?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=2002&utm_content=RFA

[Birdman]

I can expose the fan thermostat in 10 seconds. It sits at the top corner of the fan shroud.

You can see it in this link http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Mustang/RadiatorFanAssemblies/AM-59453668/153732.html?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=2002&utm_content=RFA

Good now get the hair dryer out...:lol: after you check the voltage going to it...:shades:

[The Bone]

To check the fan just unplug it and give it some 12 volt power from a charger or battery doesn't matter witch way it goes as long as it goes then check the T stat if the fan is junk then get a new fan. But you have to start there

[Tommy Gun]

Checked things out today.

Fan working....check

Thermostat....?? not sure....when I put 12 volts before the thermostat it worked before I even tried to heat it up w/ a heat gun?

After some reading I find that a common problem w/ these cars is the CCRM.

CCRM = Constant Control relay module.

Never heard of it before, but apparently it controls the Fan, thermostat and A/C w/ some relays.

Problem is the relays aren't replaceable for me and a new unit is over $200. :faint:

Here is a pic of it.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09392.jpg


I've heard you could take it apart and re-solder a new relay in it, so I took it apart.



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09393.jpg



Had to drill out the rivets.

This is the inside.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09394.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09395.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09396.jpg



I have at least 25 of these relays, but I'm not good at soldering and have never un-soldered a board before, much less soldered in a new piece.



So I'm working on bypassing the Ford :fail: item and putting in my own relay.


I'm gonna put a fused switch in the car for the fan run to a relay for the fan.

I may even get a thermostat and make it a 3 way switch so I can still use either a thermo controlled fan or a manual on fan.

Most of it is done, just have to tie up some lose ends and put in the switch.


Made a mess today. :grin:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09397.jpg




Relay...



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09398.jpg



.

[Joe G]

That's a good idea running the bypass and the new, more simple, relay. Worse case if you're at the track you can just keep it constantly on and not have to worry about something failing.

Nice. :wtg:

[HSURB]

Checked things out today.

Fan working....check

Thermostat....?? not sure....when I put 12 volts before the thermostat it worked before I even tried to heat it up w/ a heat gun?

After some reading I find that a common problem w/ these cars is the CCRM.

CCRM = Constant Control relay module.

Never heard of it before, but apparently it controls the Fan, thermostat and A/C w/ some relays.

Problem is the relays aren't replaceable for me and a new unit is over $200. :faint:

Here is a pic of it.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09392.jpg


I've heard you could take it apart and re-solder a new relay in it, so I took it apart.



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09393.jpg



Had to drill out the rivets.

This is the inside.


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09394.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09395.jpg



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09396.jpg



I have at least 25 of these relays, but I'm not good at soldering and have never un-soldered a board before, much less soldered in a new piece.



So I'm working on bypassing the Ford :fail: item and putting in my own relay.


I'm gonna put a fused switch in the car for the fan run to a relay for the fan.

I may even get a thermostat and make it a 3 way switch so I can still use either a thermo controlled fan or a manual on fan.

Most of it is done, just have to tie up some lose ends and put in the switch.


Made a mess today. :grin:


http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09397.jpg




Relay...



http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/fastestshelby2/Timing%20Set%20Install%20Jan%202011/DSC09398.jpg



.

You know you can hire this stuff done TG.

HSURB®

[68fastback]

Nice job, Bill ...and nice idea to set it up that way! :wtg:

[Tommy Gun]

You know you can hire this stuff done TG.

HSURB®



When I was younger I could never afford to pay someone to fix my cars. So I started working on them myself.

Since them I have always done pretty much everything to my cars except really involved stuff. Sometimes I even attempt that stuff like this timing chain stuff.

I can do it all if I put my heart to it, but it is getting to where I just want someone else to do the more involved stuff.

Trouble is finding someone capable.

I have a mechanic I use for some stuff, but even so I always wonder what shortcuts he may have taken? Has he use locktight on stuff? Has he torqued stuff to specs? etc. etc....

[Joe G]

I can do it all if I put my heart to it, but it is getting to where I just want someone else to do the more involved stuff.

Trouble is finding someone capable.

I have a mechanic I use for some stuff, but even so I always wonder what shortcuts he may have taken? Has he use locktight on stuff? Has he torqued stuff to specs? etc. etc....

Exactly.

Seems like it's impossible to find someone who will do something with the same attention to detail that you'd do. Even if I screw up, it's gotta cost less than hiring a dufus who screws up 30-50% of the time anyway. :doh2:

[HSURB]

When I was younger I could never afford to pay someone to fix my cars. So I started working on them myself.

Since them I have always done pretty much everything to my cars except really involved stuff. Sometimes I even attempt that stuff like this timing chain stuff.

I can do it all if I put my heart to it, but it is getting to where I just want someone else to do the more involved stuff.

Trouble is finding someone capable.

I have a mechanic I use for some stuff, but even so I always wonder what shortcuts he may have taken? Has he use locktight on stuff? Has he torqued stuff to specs? etc. etc....

Actually, I need to change the oil in my car. Any chance you'll be out this way to help me do this? I'm not real mechanical.

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

Actually, I need to change the oil in my car. Any chance you'll be out this way to help me do this? I'm not real mechanical.

HSURB®


I would love to hang out w/ someone I could do this type stuff with.


Just don't know anyone around here. :nonono:

Most around here that I do know, do stuff themselves.

[HSURB]

I would love to hang out w/ someone I could do this type stuff with.


Just don't know anyone around here. :nonono:

Most around here that I do know, do stuff themselves.

I wasn't kidding.

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

I wasn't kidding.

HSURB®


This is as tempting as going to Joe's house and helping him rebuild the carb in his old Mustang.


That would be cool too. :grin:

.

[Joe G]

This is as tempting as going to Joe's house and helping him rebuild the carb in his old Mustang.


That would be cool too. :grin:

.

:waiting2:

[68fastback]

Checked things out today.

After some reading I find that a common problem w/ these cars is the CCRM.

CCRM = Constant Control relay module.

Never heard of it before, but apparently it controls the Fan, thermostat and A/C w/ some relays.

.

I read on one blog it also controls the fuel pump...

Here's one for sale for $75 (same part number) from '03/4 Cobra ...just went up for sale Wednesday (http://anchor-room.com/images/pictures.html/) ...in case you need a back up for some reason -- about 21 items down the list...

[Tommy Gun]

I read on one blog it also controls the fuel pump...

Here's one for sale for $75 (same part number) from '03/4 Cobra ...just went up for sale Wednesday (http://anchor-room.com/images/pictures.html/) ...in case you need a back up for some reason -- about 21 items down the list...



That would suck if the fuel pump relay went out. :nonono:


I wish I had a better schematic of it.

I think I would put in my own FP relay as well so it would be easily replaceable in case.

Stupid of them to combine such things knowing that relays go bad. :nonono:


I may buy a used one to keep in my track car box, just in case.


Thanks.

.

[68fastback]

That would suck if the fuel pump relay went out. :nonono:


I wish I had a better schematic of it.

I think I would put in my own FP relay as well so it would be easily replaceable in case.

Stupid of them to combine such things knowing that relays go bad. :nonono:


I may buy a used one to keep in my track car box, just in case.


Thanks.

.

:tiphat2: ...it's a pricey little devil

[Tommy Gun]

I'm trying to find more used one's :grin:

[68fastback]

This place sells the -AB version of the module for only $7.00 (http://critescore.com/RELAY.pdf)(near the bottom of right column) ...but I can't figure out whose PDF that is ...no mnetion in the document :doh2:

[68fastback]

Found this handy Ford part decoder (http://bmj9975.rewazule.com/part_num.htm)that says yours is for a 2001 Mustang -- and was clearly carried over to the '02.

[68fastback]

...only 1,999.99 pesos on ebay (http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-48179137-mustang-cdiecucerebro-01-02-03-04-05-_JM):haha: ($167 as of this afternoon -lol)

[Tommy Gun]

Mine is part # 1R3F-12B581-AA type "B"

Can't seem to find an exact match

Most I find are for double overhead cam cars. (Cobra's)

.

[68fastback]

This place in Michigan (http://erepairables.com/car-parts-detail?make=Ford&model=Mustang&partname=Elec+Eng+Control+Module&pid=6676059&year=2002)says "call for price"

[68fastback]

eBay has none listed ...last one sold 12/25/10 for $50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-2004-Ford-Mustang-GT-4-6L-CCRM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ230564926992QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)(used) ...seems like *very* popular part!

[Tommy Gun]

eBay has none listed ...last one sold 12/25/10 for $50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-2004-Ford-Mustang-GT-4-6L-CCRM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ230564926992QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)(used) ...seems like *very* popular part!



Looking on Mustang Forums, seem like a real common problem.


I wonder if GT500's have this. :nonono:

.

[68fastback]

Looking on Mustang Forums, seem like a real common problem.


I wonder if GT500's have this. :nonono:

.

...probably mostly handled by the PCM now?

[68fastback]

Mine is part # 1R3F-12B581-AA type "B"

Can't seem to find an exact match

Most I find are for double overhead cam cars. (Cobra's)

.

Seem to all use the same one ...'01-'04 2V/3V/4V

[Tommy Gun]

Seem to all use the same one ...'01-'04 2V/3V/4V



My part number if different from what I have found??

.

[68fastback]

My part number if different from what I have found??

.

Previously Controlled Manually ? ;-)

[68fastback]

My part number if different from what I have found??

.

Yours: 1r3f-12b581-aa ...with a big B on it ...service part 1r3f-12b577-aa ??

I haven't found a cross-ref but it seemed that ones I saw for sale from '01s and '03/4 also had the same 581-aa number. Maybe that's generic part number and the service number is different for those?

[Tommy Gun]

There seems to be so many numbers of these I would think I need the same number?

I wonder what the dealer would sell me?

I've seen people online who have bought straight from the dealer and the numbers don't match, so I don't know what the cross references are?
Or why they would be different?



I wonder if some have more or less relays in them?


I was thinking about it last night. Why does mine have 4 relays?

My thoughts are this...


1 relay for the fan when the A/C is on.
1 relay for the fan when just the thermostat is used. (A/C off)
1 relay for the A/C compressor.
1 relay for the fuel pump.


I wonder if the Cobra's have 2 relays for the 2 fuel pumps?


While thinking of this I realized the I need a second relay for when I want to run off a thermostat.

So I think I'm gonna run a second relay, a triple toggle switch ( on-off-on ), one side being manual and one side being thermostat.

I would like to have a light on each side to know which is on so I remember to turn it off.

I'll check what Radio Shack has today.

I need to find a thermostat I can wire in as well. I guess I need one that will turn on specifically at a temp? perhaps 180 degrees.

.

[Tommy Gun]

I think I need something like this...


http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062537&numProdsPerPage=60


It's only 10 amp and the fans are 30 amp, but I think this only going to the relay would be okay? because it wouldn't see the 30 amps, just the relay would?

.

[Carnut]

There seems to be so many numbers of these I would think I need the same number?

I wonder what the dealer would sell me?

I've seen people online who have bought straight from the dealer and the numbers don't match, so I don't know what the cross references are?
Or why they would be different?



I wonder if some have more or less relays in them?


I was thinking about it last night. Why does mine have 4 relays?

My thoughts are this...


1 relay for the fan when the A/C is on.
1 relay for the fan when just the thermostat is used. (A/C off)
1 relay for the A/C compressor.
1 relay for the fuel pump.


I wonder if the Cobra's have 2 relays for the 2 fuel pumps?


While thinking of this I realized the I need a second relay for when I want to run off a thermostat.

So I think I'm gonna run a second relay, a triple toggle switch ( on-off-on ), one side being manual and one side being thermostat.

I would like to have a light on each side to know which is on so I remember to turn it off.

I'll check what Radio Shack has today.

I need to find a thermostat I can wire in as well. I guess I need one that will turn on specifically at a temp? perhaps 180 degrees.

.

I don't think you really need a second relay for the fan, just the toggle switch. The thermostat switch works by just going to ground so you could just wire one position into the control circuit to ground and the other back to the thermostatic switch which will ground when it reaches the preset operating temperature. Or you could simply run a two position switch from the thermo switch to ground the control wire when you switch it on. The fan relay is controlled by the control circuit going to ground.

[The Bone]

aren't there any junk yards out you're way just go there and snag one. Dont run a 3 way switch just run it through the thermostat and use a switched power source so you won't forget to turn it off. Same with the fuel pump

[Tommy Gun]

:reading:

[Tommy Gun]

Found some good stuff.

I think I could do a relay for the fuel pump if I figured out the wire colors, but I think there is a relay or the ECU in there as well that I don't want to mess with?


44674468

[Tommy Gun]

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7/mswondo3/CCRM-Diagram-2.gif

[The Bone]

Go to the junk yard save you all this trouble. Get one off a v8 car and be done with it. Looks like some important stuff in there. That's why it's 200 bucks

[Tommy Gun]

Go to the junk yard save you all this trouble. Get one off a v8 car and be done with it. Looks like some important stuff in there. That's why it's 200 bucks



Just thinking down the road.

As the car becomes more and more just a track car I'll probably be removing what ever stuff from the car including extra wiring and stuff like this.

If I can just put in a coupole simple relays I would, then they would be easily replaced when at the track.

.

[Birdman]

Looking on Mustang Forums, seem like a real common problem.


I wonder if GT500's have this. :nonono:

.

What problem ?.....I don't read back...:popcorn:

[Tommy Gun]

What problem ?.....I don't read back...:popcorn:


Do GT500's have a CCRM = Constant Control relay module?

It has inside of it relays for the PCM, Fuel relay, A/C relay and fan relay. And they are all soldered in so you have to replace the whole unit.

That is how it is from '95? through 2004 Mustangs.

[Birdman]

Do GT500's have a CCRM = Constant Control relay module?

It has inside of it relays for the PCM, Fuel relay, A/C relay and fan relay. And they are all soldered in so you have to replace the whole unit.

That is how it is from '95? through 2004 Mustangs.

Good question....hope not...:nonono:

[Tommy Gun]

I hope not too. :banghead:

[68fastback]

Eureka! :grin: I think I figured this out.

Found out by reading blogs that Ford don't make the part anymore and there's no stock. The factory part number is no longer used in the indexes, since it's only a reman part now, so you have to know the reman# and every one seems different. Found out that A-1 Cardone in Philadelphie (http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/webcat/bypart.asp)is principal remanufacturer and their part number is 73-70013 (http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=73-70013) for your 2002 4.6 GT CCRM. If you go to Cardone's Website (http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/default.asp), you can verify by clicking on the apps tab after you locate the part. Then go to Rockland Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=G-autoparts) (they were cheapest of the ones I saw) put in that part number and it's $100 but you get $40 back (core) when/if you send them your old one. $60! What a deal! ...and it's reman'd in the US. I saw another blog that Autozone is $150 with $50 core (typical overprices autozone) but they no longer seem to list it. Then looked in blogs and found that others say Cardone's CCRM works great.

Cardone claims their reman CCRMS is: "100% full-function, computer tested under simulated engine environment for on-the-car extremes of heat, cold, shock & vibration. - Ensures unit functions properly under real life conditions" They also have a Tech Help line of questions, as does Rockland Auto.

:banana: ;-)

[Tommy Gun]

:wow2::wow2::wow2:


Thanks :wtg:


.

[Joe G]

:wow2::wow2::wow2:


Thanks :wtg:


.

I think that deserves some rep points. :popcorn:

[68fastback]

:uwelcome:

[CH53Driver]

I think that deserves some rep points. :popcorn:

Done.

[68fastback]

Done.

:tiphat2: ...thanks, Matt!

[HSURB]

Eureka! :grin: I think I figured this out.

Found out by reading blogs that Ford don't make the part anymore and there's no stock. The factory part number is no longer used in the indexes, since it's only a reman part now, so you have to know the reman# and every one seems different. Found out that A-1 Cardone in Philadelphie (http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/webcat/bypart.asp)is principal remanufacturer and their part number is 73-70013 (http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=73-70013) for your 2002 4.6 GT CCRM. If you go to Cardone's Website (http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/default.asp), you can verify by clicking on the apps tab after you locate the part. Then go to Rockland Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=G-autoparts) (they were cheapest of the ones I saw) put in that part number and it's $100 but you get $40 back (core) when/if you send them your old one. $60! What a deal! ...and it's reman'd in the US. I saw another blog that Autozone is $150 with $50 core (typical overprices autozone) but they no longer seem to list it. Then looked in blogs and found that others say Cardone's CCRM works great.

Cardone claims their reman CCRMS is: "100% full-function, computer tested under simulated engine environment for on-the-car extremes of heat, cold, shock & vibration. - Ensures unit functions properly under real life conditions" They also have a Tech Help line of questions, as does Rockland Auto.

:banana: ;-)

Excellent find Dan.

Should I move this over to the "I'm Leaving the Forum" thread to make sure TG sees this?

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

Another thing.

This is the pan I put in my car.... http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-784

It says it will give a 7 quart capacity, but I had to put in 8 to 8-1/4 quarts?

I checked it a few times after running and getting the pressure up.

I'll have to check w/ Mastersmech, he has the same pan.


Been looking for this post. :doh:

Gotta change the oil....

[The Bone]

Since I have so many cars I write down oil filter number and drain plug size so all I have to do is check the door. No more crawling under the car to check

[68fastback]

:wtg: good idea!

[Tommy Gun]

Since I have so many cars I write down oil filter number and drain plug size so all I have to do is check the door. No more crawling under the car to check


I write the date and mileage on the filters.....still gotta look under the car though. :nonono:

.

[The Bone]

I write the date and mileage in the owners manual

[Boston Mike]

Gonna tackle the timing chains on the Track car next weekend.

Anyone have experience in this?

Looks simple, but time consuming on paper.


http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtCM-6004-462V.doc.pdf

.

Snap a header bolt. Seemed to work on mine.

:nonono:

[Joe G]

Snap a header bolt. Seemed to work on mine.

:nonono::spitcopy: