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Thread: Mustang Restomod

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    Club Member Carnut's Avatar
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    Mustang Restomod

    I have been doing a 1966 Mustang Fastback Restomod for a number of years. I am getting close to completion. I will try and recreate the important parts of a series I did elsewhere but no longer have. Below is a summary, I will add to it as time progresses. I thought it would be helpfull to discuss problems with the build and the fixes for anyone wanting to attempt the same thing.

    Donor car is a 1966 Fastback Mustang. It was originally a V-8 Automatic car, drum brakes, pretty generic.

    The car lacked power, braked poorly and steered like a worn out truck.

    Engine is replaced with a 347 Stroker.

    Transmission is replaced with a 96 F-150 4R70W transmission

    Steering has been replaced with a Total Control rack and pinion conversion. Front end completely rebuilt with stock parts.

    Brakes have been replace with a 4 wheel disc set up and dual master cylinder. Granada front, Explorer rear.

    Cooling is a 93 Mustang radiator with dual Spal electric fans

    Rear end is a Currie 9 inch Ford with 3:89 gear and limited slip with 31 spline axles.

    Safety improvements include a 3 point seat belts and subframe connectors. The dangerous one piece steering shaft has been replaced.

    All new glass, paint, and interior.

    All new wiring.

    Fuel system improvements.

    This thread will be a work in progress, much the same as the car.

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    Senior Member twobjshelbys's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Without pictures it's all a story. :)

    Did you see that Galaxy 427 R code car in my pictures from last weekend?
    Cheers.
    Tony

    Nothing here yet.

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    Club Member Carnut's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Quote Originally Posted by twobjshelbys View Post
    Without pictures it's all a story. :)

    Did you see that Galaxy 427 R code car in my pictures from last weekend?
    Pictures will come, I still have many. I'm old and can only do one thing at a time.

    No, I missed the photo, will look later.

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    BVM Performance Iceman's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    pics will be good :) This is cool stuff!
    2007 Triple Black GT500 Vert.
    Some mods done (some yet to come)

    Original Shelbyfest attendee: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
    Original Orfstock attendee: 2009, 2010
    Drove World's Fastest Half Mile - Bristol, TN - 2009

    BVM Performace = Go Fast & Look Good!!!
    www.bvmperformance.com

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    Techie Bird Birdman's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Can't wait to see all the of this build ....

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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Quote Originally Posted by Orf View Post
    Cool. 4WD...



    You think it's funny but I smuggled out 1 pic from when iI was there hiding in the shadows during this build. Check it out!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2007 Triple Black GT500 Vert.
    Some mods done (some yet to come)

    Original Shelbyfest attendee: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
    Original Orfstock attendee: 2009, 2010
    Drove World's Fastest Half Mile - Bristol, TN - 2009

    BVM Performace = Go Fast & Look Good!!!
    www.bvmperformance.com

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    Senior Member twobjshelbys's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Quote Originally Posted by Carnut View Post

    No, I missed the photo, will look later.
    Look here:

    http://stangsunited.com/showthread.p...ion-Boulder-CO

    4th post, 3rd photo. I have more detailed photos from last year but they are all on SM or TS.
    Cheers.
    Tony

    Nothing here yet.

  8. #8
    Club Member Carnut's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    Engine Choice

    Out of all the possibilities, I started with a 5.0 block. Sure there are other choices but you have to remember the 64 to 66 engine bay is narrow between the spring towers. Another consideration is weight. These early Mustangs came in at about 2800 lbs which is really light for a stock car.

    Why not a 351 then? A 351 has a taller block and is therefore wider than the 289/302 basic motor which the 5.0 is. Compromises have to be made with cramped headers and short intakes loosing some of the power you would get from the smaller motor.

    I still wanted more cubic inches, so I chose to stroke and bore it 347 cubic inches which is about the limit for this little motor. The bottom of the bores have to be clearanced for the rods and some of the main bearing webs is cut to make room for the bottom of the piston skirt as it goes down inside the bore. The bottom end will be reinforced by using a steel girdle. This is basically a chunk of steel that bolts all of the main bearing caps together and really stiffens up the block. Large windows are cut into the girdle to make room for the crank throws and to minimize weight.

    I choose Probe Industries premium stroker kit. It feature a forged steel crankshaft, forged steel rods, forged aluminum pistons and free floating wrist pins. We used the lighter pins to reduce reciprocating weight. Additionally, these parts will handle 300 to 400 horsepower of nitrous if I so elect. We are also using Calico coated bearings which reduces wear. The compression ratio will be 10 to 1, allowing the use of pump premium. Helping to seal the pistons are Total Seal gapless rings. Gapless rings reduce the leakage of gas into the crankcase resulting in additional horse power gains.

    Moving upward, I am using AFR aluminum cylinder heads which have been ported "on the flow bench". The traditional individually mounted rocker arms on studs are replaced with Probe Industries shaft mounted rocker arms. Individually mounted rocker arms actually move around each time the valve opens and closes and begin to fatigue the first time the valve opens. As the rpm increases the more movement occurs and eventually you have a failure. With the shaft mounted rockers, the movement is almost non existent, allowing the valve train to live a lot longer at higher rpm. Higher rpm is where the horsepower is so we want that. The heads are bolted to the block using ARP studs and Cometic head gaskets. Cometic head gaskets are the next best thing to copper "O" rings.

    The camshaft is a solid roller cam by Schneider cams. Roller cams are really the only way to go now days vs the old flat tappet cams of yesteryear. Oil manufactures have taken out of their oil, the chemicals that cushion and protect cast iron cams and lifters. These chemicals are primarily zinc and phosphoris. Roller cams are made of steel which is much harder and use a little steel wheel to ride on the cam surface and don't need zinc and phosphoris. Roller cams can also be made with steeper ramps and profiles giving you more valve lift with shorter durations resulting in more horsepower and torque. All good things.

    Topping off the engine is an Edelbrock divorced plane intake manifold. This manifold is basically a cast version of the individual runner manifolds found on many race motors. There is actually an air gap around each runner and hot oil is kept away from the runners. The runners run cooler, allowing more dense air to flow, and of course more power. It also creates a really cool place to hide acorns. A Holley 750 double pumper carburetor provides the fuel air mix to the cylinder.

    Attached are pics of the cam card and the motor.

    Crap, what's up with these weiny little attachments, I can't read them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Carnut; 05-20-2010 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Weiny attachments

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    Club Member Carnut's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    TRANSMISSION

    As with the engine, there are many choices on what to do for the transmission.

    These old cars did not come with overdrive transmissions either with a manual transmission or an automatic. I wanted overdrive for better gas mileage and less rpm while cruising on the highway.

    I wanted to stick with an automatic because it was what the car came with.

    The only practical choices seemed to be a later Ford automatic that would bolt to a Windsor style block which is different that the modular motors Ford now produces. That left me with an AOD, AODE 4R70 or an EOD.

    The EOD is the strongest but also the biggest physically and will not fit without major modications to the transmission tunnel.

    The AOD is mechanically controlled and the smallest, but also the weakest of the bunch.

    That left the AODE and the 4R70 as well as the 4R70W. These are all about the same physical size and all are computer controlled. I picked the 4R70W, the stongest of the bunch. The donor was a 96 F-150. The "W" designation is for wide ratio which gives you 2.84 first gear vs the anemic 2.42 in a regular 4R70. This gear will get you out of the hole quicker.

    I had the transmission rebuilt with additional Alto racing clutches and a Kevalar overdrive band. The shafts were replace with hardened shafts and the drum is already steel. The valving was modified as well as some other internal parts. The tailshaft and tailshaft housing were also replaced with a shorty unit to fit the Mustang.

    With all improvements to the transmission, I am ready for some really high horsepower. The torque converter remained the only weak link so it was replace with a Precision Industries multi disc lock up converter good for about 1200 horsepower. It is really a nice piece, billet steel and no short cuts like a lot of other aftermarket race converters. It has a stall speed of 2200-2400 rpm. With the low first gear and this stall, I should be into the horsepower range almost immediately.

    I had problems with this package though. How to control the transmission and the torque converter didn't want to fit.

    The control was relatively easy. Baumann engineering makes a stand alone programmable computer. It requires the installation of a rather large wiring harness and termination of a crapload of wires. Baumann has a website at www.becontrols.com if you are interested in more details of how their computer works. They also have some good tranny information.

    The other problem was when I tried to install the transmission, I couldn't get any clearance between the torque converter and the flexplate. This is an absolute no-no. Installing it that way could ruin the front pump in the transmission or work against the thrust bearing in the motor. I called on it and reseached it. I kept getting "you don't have the torque converter on all the way". After spending days on trying to get on all the way and no less than 12 aborted transmission installs, I called Precision's tech line. At first they said the same thing but I told them it wasn't going on any further. I could feel it go on the three stages and then hear the final clunk as it went in the pump. They agreed it had to be on all the way.

    The minimum and maximum clearance should be which is .060 inch to .125 inch. The solution was to fabricate a spacer out of .075 in steel plate duplicating the holes and shape of the engine and transmission. I used a plasma cutter to cut out the shape and a step drill to make the holes. Had it done in an hour. The tolerances in the transmission, engine, torque converter and flexplate all stacked up and made it unusually tight.

    After I had the transmission up again for the final time, more problems. There was no room for my old shifter. The old shifter uses a rod, and there was no way a rod was going to work.

    I didn't want to lose the look of the 66 shifter and console because they are pretty cool looking. I didn't want an aftermarket shifter because I would have to lose the console. My solution was a 6696 shifter. I will tell you about that in the next installment. I'll add some pics to this post a little later but heck, once you've seen one transmission, you've seem them all.

  10. #10
    Club Member Carnut's Avatar
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    Re: Mustang Restomod

    I'm going to add some relays for my fan and fuel pump
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