Advice on Spray guns and HVLP systems

[rown4au]

I am in the process of building cabinets for the new shop and I would like to spray them with primer and finish coat both to save time and get a better finish. I have never done this before so if anyone has experience pls chime in. A few things to consider:

My compressor won't run the big high volume guns as its 2 HP 6.5 CFM at 40 psi :doh2: and I thought I was overbuying at the time... Doh!

I am very concerned about overspray? The new shop has several bays and has 12 foot ceilings throughout with no partitions, and I have all my tools and other assorted things in there so covering everything isn't feasible as it would be a nightmare so low overspray is a must. If I clear an area 15 feet away from everything else will I still have an issue? I guess I could construct a temporary spraybooth from PVC but is it necessary?

I was planning on jusing latex interior paint for the cabinets which are made of hardwood plywood and the doors will probably be either solid MDF or some combination of MDF and hardwood plywood panels.

I know alloy Dave is the resident woodworking expert so would love to hearyour thoughts Dave!

thanks;

Jaime

[Tommy Gun]

Why not hand painting? Too big an area?

.

[rown4au]

I can hand paint the cabinets themselves but from a time prespective I thought spraying might be quicker. I only started priming by hand and it is taking forever! The doors and exterior I would like to get a better looking finish than I will get with a brush or roller.

[Tommy Gun]

Spaying sounds pretty involved to me, but I've never done it so don't really know?

.

[The Bone]

Rent a airless sprayer don't forget to tell them that you plain to spray primer because its a different sprayer for that.
You really need a way bigger air compressor Just saying

[68fastback]

Jaime, I really like Zinser's B-I-N white shellac primer. It's the original primer-sealer (from the 40s) and is an excellent product (Home Depot stocks it) still preferred by many for raw woods. Nice too because it dries fully within about 45 minutes. Excellent for MDF too (I've used it for many years). It's very thin in consistency since the shellac is disolved in an alcohol carrier which is why it dries so nice and fast. Can be sprayed or brushed. It's real strength is that it bonds really well to most any porous surface and blocks stains from telegraphing through (still used widely for smoke damage) and it's also an excellent vapor barrier and base for paint, especially water-based. The RED label B-I-N is the one I prefer (http://www.thepaintstore.com/Zinsser_B_I_N_Primer_Sealer_p/01008.htm)(they now make a blue-label version too which is a very different formulation). You can easily prime and paint in the same day with the RED label. If the wood is very porous, you can still prime 2x and paint in the same day.

[Tommy Gun]

Jaime, I really like Zinser's B-I-N white shellac primer. It's the original primer-sealer (from the 40s) and is an excellent product (Home Depot stocks it) still preferred by many for raw woods. Nice too because it dries fully within about 45 minutes. Excellent for MDF too (I've used it for many years). It's very thin in consistency since the shellac is disolved in an alcohol carrier which is why it dries so nice and fast. Can be sprayed or brushed. It's real strength is that it bonds really well to most any porous surface and blocks stains from telegraphing through (still used widely for smoke damage) and it's also an excellent vapor barrier and base for paint, especially water-based. The RED label B-I-N is the one I prefer (http://www.thepaintstore.com/Zinsser_B_I_N_Primer_Sealer_p/01008.htm)(they now make a blue-label version too which is a very different formulation). You can easily prime and paint in the same day with the RED label. If the wood is very porous, you can still prime 2x and paint in the same day.



He already knows that RED is the fastest. :tease2:

[rown4au]

Jaime, I really like Zinser's B-I-N white shellac primer. It's the original primer-sealer (from the 40s) and is an excellent product (Home Depot stocks it) still preferred by many for raw woods. Nice too because it dries fully within about 45 minutes. Excellent for MDF too (I've used it for many years). It's very thin in consistency since the shellac is disolved in an alcohol carrier which is why it dries so nice and fast. Can be sprayed or brushed. It's real strength is that it bonds really well to most any porous surface and blocks stains from telegraphing through (still used widely for smoke damage) and it's also an excellent vapor barrier and base for paint, especially water-based. The RED label B-I-N is the one I prefer (http://www.thepaintstore.com/Zinsser_B_I_N_Primer_Sealer_p/01008.htm)(they now make a blue-label version too which is a very different formulation). You can easily prime and paint in the same day with the RED label. If the wood is very porous, you can still prime 2x and paint in the same day.

Well I already primed a fair number of the cabinets with a slightly different BIN product the bullseye 1-2-3 product that is water based before realizing you were talking about a different one.

http://www.thepaintstore.com/Zinsser_Bulls_Eye_1_2_3_Primer_Sealer_p/02004.htm

It still dries in less than an hour and it is going slow enough where that is not an issue anyway! I am probably 65% done with priming everything and just bought gallon #2. :waiting2: I have figured a method out so its going a bit faster but it still is not the quickest project I have ever undertaken but I am hoping it will be worth it in the end.

I also picked up a harbor freight spray gun for when I get to the point I am ready to try and spray the interior of the cabinets. After speaking to the manager of the local Rocket woodworking store he actually pointed me in that direction.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

I just need to go with a different paint than latex (he suggested water based enamel) and he also said that overspray with a modern hvlp gun should not be bad at all. I figure if all else fails I can rig up some exhaust fans or just wait for a warmer day here and do them outside.

I have noticed however that my compressor is struggling to start up after the pressure switch kicks it on, I think the dump valve is not releasing the pressure so its starting against a head of pressure and the compressor is maybe 2 years old... figures.
So i will have to sort that out before I think about spraying anything.

:doh2:

[Tommy Gun]

... figures.
So i will have to sort that out before I think about spraying anything.

:doh2:


6HP compressor w/ a 60 gal or more tank. :grin:

[rown4au]

that is on the list but I have a few other things to sort out first...

[68fastback]

Well I already primed a fair number of the cabinets with a slightly different BIN product the bullseye 1-2-3 product that is water based before realizing you were talking about a different one.

http://www.thepaintstore.com/Zinsser_Bulls_Eye_1_2_3_Primer_Sealer_p/02004.htm

It still dries in less than an hour and it is going slow enough where that is not an issue anyway! I am probably 65% done with priming everything and just bought gallon #2. :waiting2: I have figured a method out so its going a bit faster but it still is not the quickest project I have ever undertaken but I am hoping it will be worth it in the end.

I also picked up a harbor freight spray gun for when I get to the point I am ready to try and spray the interior of the cabinets. After speaking to the manager of the local Rocket woodworking store he actually pointed me in that direction.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

I just need to go with a different paint than latex (he suggested water based enamel) and he also said that overspray with a modern hvlp gun should not be bad at all. I figure if all else fails I can rig up some exhaust fans or just wait for a warmer day here and do them outside.

I have noticed however that my compressor is struggling to start up after the pressure switch kicks it on, I think the dump valve is not releasing the pressure so its starting against a head of pressure and the compressor is maybe 2 years old... figures.
So i will have to sort that out before I think about spraying anything.

:doh2:

The blue-label should work fine too, Jaime. It has less fumes than the red-label (original, alcohol based B-I-N) so that might be an advantage working in winter indoors. I like the red-label but you can get 'drunk' on it -lol. I've not used an HVLP gun but have painted with an electric gun using latex-based with a modifier added for spraying and it worked well, but his suggestion to use a water-based enamel sounds like a good idea and should level-out nicely too. I've never sprayed enamel with a gun so will be interesting to see how it goes for you.

[Tommy Gun]

..... I like the red-label but you can get 'drunk' on it -lol.


Duh!!


4149

[68fastback]

:rofl: ...yeah, that one!