Thread crushed in replacing OD pulley

[0311Gunner]

OK so I screwed up and used a pulley puller with too small of a driver screw. It proceeded to fit down the shaft and the threads in the snout for the first 3-4 threads seem to be compacted because they took the torque of the puller pressing against them pulling the pulley off. So my question is am I completely ****ed out of a 20K engine or can that piece be fixed relitively easy or not? Please help Ladies and Gentlemen I was hoping to drive her on the 4th but got the feeling Im not going to be.

[Birdman]

If it is only the first 3-4 threads I don't think it's a problem because the balancer bolt is about 4 inches long (lots of threads to hold in that snout).
I would get the proper tap or thread chaser and run it down the threads of the snout to "clean" the threads you think you messed up. I would also put a small amount of engine oil on the threads of the bolt when reinstalling the new balancer.

[Tommy Gun]

I agree w/ Birdy.

It is a very hard thing to get at though, but possible.

Use your bolt to find the correct thread size and be sure to clean or blow out as much shavings as possible after re-threading.

[Alloy Dave]

I agree also.

I don't think that bolt sees a lot of "fore-aft" stress, so you should be ok if you can clean up the threads.

[Tommy Gun]

Did you work this out?:waiting2:

[0311Gunner]

Hey guys she got worked out. I used the tap and worked really slow through it. Cleaned her out and completed install. Just for safe measure I had talked to Mr. Starkey and he had said that the tune I recieved from him was self adjusting (was for CAI, 2.65 pulley and extreme exhaust) and that it would be able to adjust for the 10% od pulley. When I reinstalled the tune the throttle bounced and hung up after letting it idle for about 20 mins. I then took her out around the block nice and easy and she still was doing it. Then I get in her today and she runs like a dream. Any ideas gents? Thanks for the help everyone and Tommy Gun sorry about my language. I was freaking out. Wont happen again. Ill behave

[Gr8snkbite]

Never heard of a self adjusting tune.....stock TB? How high did it hang and how long? What other mods, if any?

With a new tune, car has to relearn strategy....i.e. driving characteristics.....

[Tommy Gun]

Need more input.



I changed my tuner over a sticking throttle. No sense in that EVER happening. Could have put my car in a ditch!

[0311Gunner]

She is back to normal. I run the FR 62.5 mm TB with JLT 110 mm CAI, C&R racing HE, Steeda 2.65mm Pulley, Roush extreme exhaust with Justin Starkey (VMP tuning) 91 performance tune, and MGW Shifter. The Throttle when tapped would hold at that the peak of the tap for about 2 seconds, then let down back to 1.5 rpms then to 1 rpm. Im gonna call Justin tomorrow just to make sure but I have been easy on her and she seems to be running great. I just dont wanna risk anything else going wrong with this. Next step is 3.73's which I will have someone install for me with the shelby reenforced 8.8 rear end wich will need a new tune and then have my plenum and TB ported. Then Suspension with the new FRPP kit. A few exterior mods and some CS 40's and Ill call her done till I decide to grab the VMP TVS upgrade. then its on to the fuel mgt stems. Does it ever end?

[Tommy Gun]

No! :rofl3:

[Tommy Gun]

Throttle sticking is someone messing w/ something in the tune that shouldn't be messed with.


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[68fastback]

:yes: ...ask Justin if he has had the JLT-110 MAF professionally flowed and, if so, ask him if the tune is using those acctual flowed MAF xfer curve data-points (vs modified curve to target A/Fs) and, if not, ask him to fix that for you. Better still, you might eventually want to move to a tuner who doesn't mess with the MAF transfer curve ...it should only and precisely reflect *actual* MAF flow and *not* be used to tune in *any* other way, else you risk situations that can be potentially harmfull as well as some TB anomalies (which may or may not be the cause of the ones you're seeing).

The throttle should come down slower than your foot coming off it (slight hang/delay) after you blip the throttle ...on a stock tune that's for emissions (NOx reduction -- the equivalent of the decel dashpot on a carb), but then it should settle right into the normal 750-850 idle and be stable. Also, if the car is still moving with the clutch in (depressed) the stock tune will hold a high idle -- e.g. as you put it in neutral rolling to a stop, etc -- until you come to a complete stop, so dunno if you were fully stopped when seeing the high-idle or not. I forget why that's done but likely to prevent higher emissions caused by possible near-stall or 'buck' in the event you re-accel before the lean-trailing throttle has a chance to stabilize (hence the 'dashpot'/delayed idle-down).

[Black Vert SS]

:yes: ...ask Justin if he has had the JLT-110 MAF professionally flowed and, if so, ask him if the tune is using those acctual flowed MAF xfer curve data-points (vs modified curve to target A/Fs) and, if not, ask him to fix that for you. Better still, you might eventually want to move to a tuner who doesn't mess with the MAF transfer curve ...it should only and precisely reflect *actual* MAF flow and *not* be used to tune in *any* other way, else you risk situations that can be potentially harmfull as well as some TB anomalies (which may or may not be the cause of the ones you're seeing).

The throttle should come down slower than your foot coming off it (slight hang/delay) after you blip the throttle ...on a stock tune that's for emissions (NOx reduction -- the equivalent of the decel dashpot on a carb), but then it should settle right into the normal 750-850 idle and be stable. Also, if the car is still moving with the clutch in (depressed) the stock tune will hold a high idle -- e.g. as you put it in neutral rolling to a stop, etc -- until you come to a complete stop, so dunno if you were fully stopped when seeing the high-idle or not. I forget why that's done but likely to prevent higher emissions caused by possible near-stall or 'buck' in the event you re-accel before the lean-trailing throttle has a chance to stabilize (hence the 'dashpot'/delayed idle-down).

De ja vu :doh2:

[Tommy Gun]

......The throttle should come down slower than your foot coming off it (slight hang/delay) after you blip the throttle ...on a stock tune that's for emissions (NOx reduction -- the equivalent of the decel dashpot on a carb), but then it should settle right into the normal 750-850 idle and be stable. Also, if the car is still moving with the clutch in (depressed) the stock tune will hold a high idle -- e.g. as you put it in neutral rolling to a stop, etc -- until you come to a complete stop, so dunno if you were fully stopped when seeing the high-idle or not. I forget why that's done but likely to prevent higher emissions caused by possible near-stall or 'buck' in the event you re-accel before the lean-trailing throttle has a chance to stabilize (hence the 'dashpot'/delayed idle-down).


I didn't know that. :grin:

[68fastback]

:boink:

[Tommy Gun]

I was serious.

I was wondering why mine stayed just above 1000 rpm's when rolling to a stop in stop and go traffic.

[68fastback]

...ok, I take back the :boink:

...and substitute a :tiphat: :tease2:

:grin:

:hiding:

[CH53Driver]

I was serious.

I was wondering why mine stayed just above 1000 rpm's when rolling to a stop in stop and go traffic.

Because you need to completely take your foot off the go pedal?

[Tommy Gun]

:groan:

[68fastback]

...yeah, all GT500s with a factory tune will do that ...until they come to a complete stop.

[Tommy Gun]

Maybe I should have paid more attention the 2 months my car was still stock. :rofl3:


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[Birdman]

Maybe I should have paid more attention the 2 months my car was still stock. :rofl3:


.

This info has been posted and talked about quite a bit on this site. Here is a quote from a thread that was posted on 5/11/10 and has been a "sticky" in the Engine tech area ever since...:doh2:

http://stangsunited.com/showthread.php?217-Ford-s-Drive-by-Wire-Throttle-Body-Operation

"Think of a Dashpot as the rate of deceleration in engine rpm’s when you lift off the throttle. Too little dashpot and the car would drop rpm’s rapidly resulting in a less than smooth transition and a worse case of possibly stalling the engine.
Too much Dashpot and the engine RPM’s will hang up a while before dropping down to normal based on TP (throttle position).
Ford has allowed for this as well , for example with a manual transmission vehicle as in the GT500 when coming to a stop with your foot off the gas pedal the engine will remain at about 1100rpm’s while the vehicle is still rolling. Once it is fully stopped the ETC will allow the rpm’s to drop down to the normal 750rpm idle speed.
Even at highway speed when you let off the pedal the vehicle rpm’s will not drop off rapidly but will do so in a gradual manner.
Certain tuners prefer a different feel than what the stock Ford tune will give so they will opt to change certain Dashpot settings to achieve the feel they are looking for ."

[VaporDude]

...yeah, all GT500s with a factory tune will do that ...until they come to a complete stop.

They started this back in 05. My 05 Mustang GT did this and it took some time to get used to.

[Tommy Gun]

They started this back in 05. My 05 Mustang GT did this and it took some time to get used to.


4.5 years and I'm still not used to it. :rofl3:

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