Kooks LT's

[mustang loco]

Thinking of getting these with the x-pipe 3",just wondering if I should get the catted or non cat...been reading a lot on guys lately with "clogged" high flows,have FRPP mufflers as well that I will keep,what would you guys go with and how much boost could I expect these will drop,1-1.5lbs??

[Birdman]

I would definitely get the "Catted X pipe". There really hasn't been any problems with the Kooks system clogging cats. These cars without cats literally stink from the exhaust fumes. No way would I want to drive my car if it didn't have cats.IMHO

[mustang loco]

Thx George,that's what I wanted to hear,what about "boost drop",I'm hoping these wil help wich I'm sure and how much gain can I expect from these over my x-pipe with hflow cats and mufflers I have now...appreciate the help.

Pat:tiphat2:

[onecrazydog]

I dropped close to 2 pounds of boost when I installed the Kooks... I went catless, I'm old school...

[mustang loco]

Thx Stacey,pretty good then,woot...guess we'll go down with the kooks then !!

[Birdman]

I dropped close to 2 pounds of boost when I installed the Kooks... I went catless, I'm old school...

Probably another 1-to 1-1/2 lb drop more with the LT's from what you now have.

[mustang loco]

thx Birdy!!

[onecrazydog]

Thx Stacey,pretty good then,woot...guess we'll go down with the kooks then !!

Don't use the gaskets that come with the Kooks... They are junk... Use new factory steel gaskets or really good header gaskets...

[Birdman]

Don't use the gaskets that come with the Kooks... They are junk... Use new factory steel gaskets or really good header gaskets...

Good advice the factory gaskets are the best. I even put a thin coating of hi-temp silicone on them before reinstalling the OEM ones back on....(the car was brand new at the time )over 4 years ago never had a leak. A new set would be best though (I have Stainless Works headers on my car but if I was doing it today I would g with Kooks because I like their exhaust system better overall)

[fcettner]

I ended up going catless after I discovered my cats were showing signs of damage. I'm running 715 RWHP so I don't think they can hold up with that kind of power. I ran 6K with the catted Kooks LT setup installed.

[mustang loco]

Don't use the gaskets that come with the Kooks... They are junk... Use new factory steel gaskets or really good header gaskets...


Good advice the factory gaskets are the best. I even put a thin coating of hi-temp silicone on them before reinstalling the OEM ones back on....(the car was brand new at the time )over 4 years ago never had a leak. A new set would be best though (I have Stainless Works headers on my car but if I was doing it today I would g with Kooks because I like their exhaust system better overall)

thx for the info guys,will do the same then(oem's when I'll get these)
:tiphat2:


I ended up going catless after I discovered my cats were showing signs of damage. I'm running 715 RWHP so I don't think they can hold up with that kind of power. I ran 6K with the catted Kooks LT setup installed.

:wow2:,6K..and what's your opinion so far with the catless and how many k's so far with them??...I'm also thinking about the wife's opinion when we'll be driving,she thinks it's loud with x-pipe /hflow cats with FRPP mufflers as it is...

[fcettner]

I just changed them out Friday so I haven't driven it a lot. I'm going to send the cats to kooks and see if they can determine what caused them to fail. They might even be covered under warrenty. How much power are you running? I have a KB 2.8 blower and FRRP SVT-1 mufflers and its not too loud. Since I went cat-less it is has that old muscle car sound, but not crazy loud.

[mustang loco]

thx for the info on the sound( if you ever make a vid/or have one already...just sayin':grin:,also using the SVT1),last time on the dyno wich was last month,made in the 640's .18* timing on 94oct...hope you'll be around here more,great bunch of people here!!

Pat

[fcettner]

Roger that Pat. I had a heck of a time finding video's of my exhaust set-up. I learned the hard way that unless you like super loud, don't go with the KR muffs with our set-up. Here's a link with the cats still installed.

http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j352/fcettner/9-30-11%20dyno%20day/?action=view&current=9-30-11Dynoday009.mp4

[mustang loco]

appreciate the link:tiphat:,sounded good w/the cats...nice ride and h.p btw

[68fastback]

...the tune is critical for cat longevity too.

[Birdman]

...the tune is critical for cat longevity too.


you think?....:innocent: I have over 15,000 on my hi-flow cats and LT's so far so good.

[68fastback]

:biggrin:

...really such a fine line at WOT for cats between fly and fry :shades:

...esp if the MAF isn't dead-nuts calibrated to actual flow
...esp if the tuner is reluctant to pull timing on high inferred cat temps
...etc.

[Birdman]

Honestly once these engines are modified near the 700rwhp mark catalytic converter health is at risk even with a perfect tune due to the excessively high temps and large volumes of exhaust flow at WOT.

That said if the tune is spot on and some cat protection is left on in the tune, ala Ford Racing's tune you will get much longer service life from the cats especially under normal street driving habits. The problem is many aftermarket tuners turn off cat protection even with a stock exhaust system, I know this because I have seen this in some GT500 tunes I have personally looked at. They might get away with this practice to some degree on a car using hi-flow cats but not on a stock exhaust using OEM cats, not even on a slightly modified engine.

[68fastback]

...that makes a lot of sense, George ...especially the cat protection part. I guess A/F control is key and should be more accurately manageable on the '11-up with widebands. Because cat temps are essentially algorythmic estimates, stock tunes on '10-prior are necessarily very conservative with cat temps since the OEM is responsible under federal law for a failed cat (unmodified engine) in the first 100-150K miles (depends on vehicle)

Curious tho, how much cat protection FRP leaves in for their TVS/Whipple package tunes ...and wonder if they're assuming street use but hightened temp tolerance of race cats or ??? ...also wonder if the '11 FRP tune is different to exploit the true widebands.

I guess at 700+ HP even with race cats, one pass on a marginally-correct tune can fry them (and lots more -lol) but wondering what assumptions FRP is using since they surely know these kits are going on street cars, etc.

[Birdman]

...that makes a lot of sense, George ...especially the cat protection part. I guess A/F control is key and should be more accurately manageable on the '11-up with widebands. Because cat temps are essentially algorythmic estimates, stock tunes on '10-prior are necessarily very conservative with cat temps since the OEM is responsible under federal law for a failed cat (unmodified engine) in the first 100-150K miles (depends on vehicle)

Curious tho, how much cat protection FRP leaves in for their TVS/Whipple package tunes ...and wonder if they're assuming street use but hightened temp tolerance of race cats or ??? ...also wonder if the '11 FRP tune is different to exploit the true widebands.

I guess at 700+ HP even with race cats, one pass on a marginally-correct tune can fry them (and lots more -lol) but wondering what assumptions FRP is using since they surely know these kits are going on street cars, etc.

Ford Racing's TVS tune does incorporate "cat protection" for example but if you ask them they will tell you it's best for cars using hi-flow cats but can be used with OEM cats although not advisable. I believe most all FRPP parts and tune's are labeled "off road use only"....

[68fastback]

Ford Racing's TVS tune does incorporate "cat protection" for example but if you ask them they will tell you it's best for cars using hi-flow cats but can be used with OEM cats although not advisable. I believe most all FRPP parts and tune's are labeled "off road use only"....

makes sesne...

yep, just about all are "off road" ...except for a few of the muffler/axle-backs and non-power items, etc.

---

I've been watching some of the TracKey 'discussions' on TS and am amazed at how some are feeling 'cheated' that it reduces the powertrain warranty to 3/36 because FRP is wholy-owned by Ford so has to be factory full warranty :doh2: ...I used the FRP SC analogy (reduced powertrain warranty if done by dealer, else no warranty) but still some can't swallow the reality. Still others are thinking they'll not do TracKey and just have a tuner do a 'better' job because "that's all they do" ...ahem ...right ...sure. :giggle:

[Birdman]

makes sesne...

yep, just about all are "off road" ...except for a few of the muffler/axle-backs and non-power items, etc.

---

I've been watching some of the TracKey 'discussions' on TS and am amazed at how some are feeling 'cheated' that it reduces the powertrain warranty to 3/36 because FRP is wholy-owned by Ford so has to be factory full warranty :doh2: ...I used the FRP SC analogy (reduced powertrain warranty if done by dealer, else no warranty) but still some can't swallow the reality. Still others are thinking they'll not do TracKey and just have a tuner do a 'better' job because "that's all they do" ...ahem ...right ...sure. :giggle:

Yeah Ford has invested 2000+ man/Hrs on developing the track Key not to mention probably triple that developing the regular tune for the 5.0 engine itself and they think any aftermarket tuner can do a better job...:groan:

Sorry to say most aftermarket tuners today are being taught the wrong tuning methods, mostly by the aftermarket tuning software company's who's product they use. Sad for the unsuspecting public looking for improved safe reliable performance.

[mustang loco]

thx for the advice and all the tips guys,your knowledge and experiece is very appreciated!!:tiphat2:

[68fastback]

Yeah Ford has invested 2000+ man/Hrs on developing the track Key not to mention probably triple that developing the regular tune for the 5.0 engine itself and they think any aftermarket tuner can do a better job...:groan:

Sorry to say most aftermarket tuners today are being taught the wrong tuning methods, mostly by the aftermarket tuning software company's who's product they use. Sad for the unsuspecting public looking for improved safe reliable performance.


For sure! There's no substitute for exhaustive development testing and stress testing too ...not just some pulls on a chassis dyno to check sensor/system capacities and tweak A/Fs

btw, Ford Racing released the TracKey Customer Instruction PDF (how to use and program it's features) ...posted it up in Breaking Auto News with a link to the 5.0 TiVCT/Boss thread.
(...I heard Bernie Madoff did 'investing' for a living :haha:)

[Joe G]

thx for the advice and all the tips guys,your knowledge and experiece is very appreciated!!:tiphat2::uwelcome:













:sofa:

[Cobra Drifter]

So how do you like your Kooks Pat? Its been a while now and whats your review? Im thinking of getting some this week

[Boston Mike]

So how do you like your Kooks Pat? Its been a while now and whats your review? Im thinking of getting some this week

aside from the install nightmare, I am enjoying mine.................

[Joe G]

aside from the install nightmare, I am enjoying mine.................
I thought you haven't driven the car in months?

[Cobra Drifter]

Hes enjoying looking at it lol

[68fastback]

Kooks and ARs are both sweet, imo. The Kooks are tad more compact (tucked-up a bit better with a tad more collector ground clearance (important for you CD?) and the Kooks OR-X is a bit further forward which gives a little more DS clearance when the suspension is hanging on a chassis lift (the AR's clear too). With some SSWs the DS will hit the X-pipe when wheels are hung ...SSW opdated their design a while back so *possibly* that's fixed now. Kooks make a few more HP than the ARs (literally a few) so both are good choices and look like quality products when looked-over carefully.

[Cobra Drifter]

Thanks for hte input! I am set on the Kooks. I think the sinze wont make a big difference either? 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8?

[68fastback]

Thanks for hte input! I am set on the Kooks. I think the sinze wont make a big difference either? 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8?

yep, if you were 3" all the way to the muff tips (very desireable) it would matter a little, but not if 2.5" back. Either will help unload your SC and make more RWHP from the same SC energy consumption ...less SC heat too. LT's and optimized exhaust rocks! ;-)

[Cobra Drifter]

Oh I was going to switch to a 2.5" exhaust piping for clearance because the 3" scrapes and also hits my axle

[68fastback]

Oh I was going to switch to a 2.5" exhaust piping for clearance because the 3" scrapes and also hits my axle

Ah, ok ...probably where it goes over the axle ...not a lot of space up there when lowered that far.

[Cobra Drifter]

Nope. I look under my car and I can see how the 3" pipe takes away clearance right after the x-pipe too. So might as well make it 2.5" from x-pipe on back.
Over the axle Im going to try to have a shop customize it with an flattened tappered oval to gain clearance up in there without creating any backpressure.

[68fastback]

Oh, ok...
...and the Kooks collector tucks-up a just a bit higher than the ARs so that should help.

[Cobra Drifter]

Thanks