Mustang Restomod

[Carnut]

:pics:

I haven't taken any lately, maybe this weeked if the weather is any good.

[Tommy Gun]

:waiting:

[Carnut]

Rained this weekend, no good for pictures.

I did however take it to a car club Christmas party. I am extremely happy with gas mileage on this engine. I got better than 20mpg under urban driving conditions which included a 30 foot smokey burnout at the party. This is a high power motor with a thirsty 750 double pumper race Holley carburetor.

I'm sure glad I built it using the 4R70W automatic overdrive with the lock up converter.

[68fastback]

Vids of burnout!! :giggle:

:hide:

[Joe G]

Vids of burnout!! :giggle:

:hide::goodpost:

[The Bone]

.\included a 30 foot smokey burnout at the party.
.
show off

[Carnut]

show off



:yes:


I just finished cleaning the tire rubber of the rear quarters.

:chirp:

[The Bone]

Nice

[Tommy Gun]

:wow2: Guess this is finally done. :popcorn:

.

[68fastback]

:pics: :banana: :grin:

[CH53Driver]

:waiting2:

[Gr8snkbite]

http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/2011/10/28/ford-officially-announces-1964-12-to-1966-mustang-convertible-licensed-body-shells/

just get one of these and start fresh.....:grin:

[Carnut]

I could but I think I would be going backwards.

[68fastback]

I could but I think I would be going backwards.

...then just make a u-turn :grin:





:hide:

...somehow I kinda feel an original VIN is 'real.' Nothing wrong with the remakes, it's just not an original vintage Mustang ...saved from the cruel jaws of rust and the scrap heap :banana:

[Tommy Gun]

I have been doing a 1966 Mustang Fastback Restomod for a number of years. I am getting close to completion. I will try and recreate the important parts of a series I did elsewhere but no longer have. Below is a summary, I will add to it as time progresses. I thought it would be helpfull to discuss problems with the build and the fixes for anyone wanting to attempt the same thing.

Donor car is a 1966 Fastback Mustang. It was originally a V-8 Automatic car, drum brakes, pretty generic.

The car lacked power, braked poorly and steered like a worn out truck.

Engine is replaced with a 347 Stroker.

Transmission is replaced with a 96 F-150 4R70W transmission

Steering has been replaced with a Total Control rack and pinion conversion. Front end completely rebuilt with stock parts.

Brakes have been replace with a 4 wheel disc set up and dual master cylinder. Granada front, Explorer rear.

Cooling is a 93 Mustang radiator with dual Spal electric fans

Rear end is a Currie 9 inch Ford with 3:89 gear and limited slip with 31 spline axles.

Safety improvements include a 3 point seat belts and subframe connectors. The dangerous one piece steering shaft has been replaced.

All new glass, paint, and interior.

All new wiring.

Fuel system improvements.

This thread will be a work in progress, much the same as the car.



Did Mrs. Nut sell this yet? :nonono:

.

[Carnut]

Did Mrs. Nut sell this yet? :nonono:

.

No, but I may have to in the end. Dunno now.

[Tommy Gun]

:banghead: I didn't want to hear that.

[Tommy Gun]

No, but I may have to in the end. Dunno now.


We have been talking about selling a bunch of stuff and downsizing big time so we don't end up in this type of position.

Just need to make the first steps to get motivated....

Even looking at selling the house and moving to a less expensive area just south of us.

Less traffic too. :grin:

[Carnut]

I took the passenger door apart, had quite a rattle in it.

After checking everything out, I discovered a couple pieces of old hardware that someone left in the door. Also put a little sleeving on a few linkages that felt suspect.

I'll put it back together today and see if is fixed.

[The Bone]

How is the job hunt going?

[Carnut]

How is the job hunt going?

Thanks for asking, nothing yet.

[Tommy Gun]

:birdy:

[Carnut]

Still drivng the 66 on a regular basis. It continues to run well, I guess I finally got all of the gremilins out of it.

[68fastback]

:wtg: ...what a great project -- even tho the bad parts were such a PITA it's gotta be all worth it now.

[Tommy Gun]

:grin:

[Carnut]

It takes me back to my youth.

[Joe G]

It takes me back to my youth.Wouldn't you need a Roman chariot to do that? :look:

[Carnut]

Wouldn't you need a Roman chariot to do that? :look:


Back before they had cookies?

[Joe G]

Back before they had cookies?I've never seen any cookies, so yes... roman chariots. :boink:




:lol:

[Carnut]

I've never seen any cookies, so yes... I am lucky I have not poisoned myself with sugar and chocolate.




:lol:



Good for you.

[Joe G]

:doh2:

[68fastback]

:wow2: ...prehistoric cookies (http://uncrate.com/p/2011/05/caveman-cookies.jpg)! :faint:

:spitcopy:

[Carnut]

Someone has gone overboard on word search.

[68fastback]

:giggle: ...and I'll be on the lookout for him :shades:

[Carnut]

94389439944094419442

Took the 66 to the Arizona Route 66 Fun Run, from Seligman to Kingman. Car ran stout, had a couple of minor issues but they were quickly resolved.

[Carnut]

94459446944794489449A few more

[68fastback]

...nice pics, Bruce! :tiphat2:

...your baby looks superb!! Love that hood too! R U waiting to paint it until you can get the pass-side edge to match the fender better?

[Carnut]

...nice pics, Bruce! :tiphat2:

...your baby looks superb!! Love that hood too! R U waiting to paint it until you can get the pass-side edge to match the fender better?

Exactly, don't have the money for it right now, so I will just enjoy it as is until then.

[Tommy Gun]

Looks fun, wish we had people around here that would get together for rides every now and then. :nonono:

[Carnut]

Looks fun, wish we had people around here that would get together for rides every now and then. :nonono:

We go with a group of friends, makes it enjoyable. There were about 10 couples and a handfull of singles. Plus there is a back up if people have car troubles etc. It's not like being there by yourself.

[Tommy Gun]

Cherish those friends, I don't have any of that.

I must be an ass :look:

[Joe G]

Cherish those friends, I don't have any of that.

I must be an ass :look:You have them... you just won't visit them. :nonono:

[Tommy Gun]

I do? :birdy:

[Carnut]

I do? :birdy:


Sure you do, you just need to work at it.

[Joe G]

Sure you do, you just need to work at it.:goodpost:

[Tommy Gun]

I don't like working.

[Shlbylvr]

Sure you do, you just need to work at it.

:goodpost:

[HSURB]

Cherish those friends, I don't have any of that.

I must be an ass :look:

Really.

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

Sure

[Carnut]

With the heat, I appear to be having a vapor lock condition on the 66 Mustang.

I ran a Holley HP 150 gerotor pump using 3/8 hardline and the standard non-return regulator so the pump "deadheads" when the float bowls are full under light throttle conditions. This is the way Holley says to hook it up and that a bypass wasn't necessary and I used the regulator that came with the pump kit. It worked fine until I came back from the Route 66 Fun Run where it shut off after the cruise down into the Valley into the heat. The relay was pretty hot so I surmized it might be defective and I replaced it with a large continuous duty type.

Last weekend, I took it out for a drive and it did the same thing to me. After letting it cool down for a half hour, it started up and it was fine. I now think because the fuel is barely moving under cruise and combined with the heat it has to be vapor locking. The only way of curing this condition is to add a fuel return line back to the tank so that the fuel can move and not sit in the pump and heat up. I also did more more research on the pump and found a Holley tech sheet. I read in fine print that sometimes, higher heat and sensitive fuels may require a bypass regulator. Great!

Not wanted to have a spend a bunch of money on a bypass regulator, I am going to try a trick they used with old mechanically injected systems that worked. I am going to add an additional line from the regulator to the tank except, instead of a new regulator, I will use a metered orfice to allow the fuel to return at a constant rate.

The orfice needs to be small enough to not rob the carb under WOT but large enough to move the fuel. I'm thinking 80 thousandths or so, about the size of larger carburetor jet. At 8 psi it should keep the fuel moving.

I spent the morning at the hardware store getting some fittings and need to drain the tank, again. I guess I will get started after lunch and my nap.

[68fastback]

...sounds like a nice solution, Bruce -- hope it does the trick!

[Carnut]

Yeah me too, I'll post up the results.

[Carnut]

With the heat, I appear to be having a vapor lock condition on the 66 Mustang.

I ran a Holley HP 150 gerotor pump using 3/8 hardline and the standard non-return regulator so the pump "deadheads" when the float bowls are full under light throttle conditions. This is the way Holley says to hook it up and that a bypass wasn't necessary and I used the regulator that came with the pump kit. It worked fine until I came back from the Route 66 Fun Run where it shut off after the cruise down into the Valley into the heat. The relay was pretty hot so I surmized it might be defective and I replaced it with a large continuous duty type.

Last weekend, I took it out for a drive and it did the same thing to me. After letting it cool down for a half hour, it started up and it was fine. I now think because the fuel is barely moving under cruise and combined with the heat it has to be vapor locking. The only way of curing this condition is to add a fuel return line back to the tank so that the fuel can move and not sit in the pump and heat up. I also did more more research on the pump and found a Holley tech sheet. I read in fine print that sometimes, higher heat and sensitive fuels may require a bypass regulator. Great!

Not wanted to have a spend a bunch of money on a bypass regulator, I am going to try a trick they used with old mechanically injected systems that worked. I am going to add an additional line from the regulator to the tank except, instead of a new regulator, I will use a metered orfice to allow the fuel to return at a constant rate.

The orfice needs to be small enough to not rob the carb under WOT but large enough to move the fuel. I'm thinking 80 thousandths or so, about the size of larger carburetor jet. At 8 psi it should keep the fuel moving.

I spent the morning at the hardware store getting some fittings and need to drain the tank, again. I guess I will get started after lunch and my nap.



I completed the return line installation.

I ended up using 1/4 inch annealed steel line from a coil so it ended up being one piece from the tank to the front of the car. I just had to be careful and plan it's routing beforehand. I ended up putting it up over the rear axle first, making one bend to get it it somewhat positioned, then worked it to the front of the car.

I needed a metered orfice so I ended up using a inch long piece of 3/8 inch solid alumimum bar that I drilled a .090 inch hole through it lengthwise. This "pill" fit perfectly inside two fittings, a female hose adapter into a flare adapter, making it the perfect "pill box". I can change the pill later if it proves too big or too small.

Finally, I ran some 3/8 inch hose from the "pill box" fitting to the unused port on the regulator. The other port still goes to the carburetor where I have a fuel pressure guage installed.

Comparing the fuel pressure before and after, 7 psi before and 4 psi after, it appears that I am returning fuel to the tank at a reasonable rate while still having plenty of volume for the carb. I am going to tweak the pressure regulator back up to about 6 or 7 and I should be good.

Now all is left is to drive it around in the heat for a few weeks to verify my issue is resolved.

[Joe G]

I completed the return line installation.

I ended up using 1/4 inch annealed steel line from a coil so it ended up being one piece from the tank to the front of the car. I just had to be careful and plan it's routing beforehand. I ended up putting it up over the rear axle first, making one bend to get it it somewhat positioned, then worked it to the front of the car.

I needed a metered orfice so I ended up using a inch long piece of 3/8 inch solid alumimum bar that I drilled a .090 inch hole through it lengthwise. This "pill" fit perfectly inside two fittings, a female hose adapter into a flare adapter, making it the perfect "pill box". I can change the pill later if it proves too big or too small.

Finally, I ran some 3/8 inch hose from the "pill box" fitting to the unused port on the regulator. The other port still goes to the carburetor where I have a fuel pressure guage installed.

Comparing the fuel pressure before and after, 7 psi before and 4 psi after, it appears that I am returning fuel to the tank at a reasonable rate while still having plenty of volume for the carb. I am going to tweak the pressure regulator back up to about 6 or 7 and I should be good.

Now all is left is to drive it around in the heat for a few weeks to verify my issue is resolved.:wtg:


:pics:

[Carnut]

Sorry no pic's. Everything is buried so that it is not condusive to photographing.

How about some hot tub pics of TG?

[68fastback]

Bruce, sounds like a really createive deisgn! :wtg:

Only cocern I see is that aluminum (and most other soft metals such as zinc, brass and copper) is just not compatible with ethanol blends since the alcohol compounds attack them. Aluminum can also contaminate the fuel system and damage injectors (you're carb'd), pumps, etc and since you're now recirculating fuel that may be more of a concern. Possibly substituting a stainless-steel pill would be better. Not sure what metal carb makers now use in their metering jets, blocks, floats, etc but I suspect they're specialty alloys engineered for E-fuels.

[Carnut]

Bruce, sounds like a really createive deisgn! :wtg:

Only cocern I see is that aluminum (and most other soft metals such as zinc, brass and copper) is just not compatible with ethanol blends since the alcohol compounds attack them. Aluminum can also contaminate the fuel system and damage injectors (you're carb'd), pumps, etc and since you're now recirculating fuel that may be more of a concern. Possibly substituting a stainless-steel pill would be better. Not sure what metal carb makers now use in their metering jets, blocks, floats, etc but I suspect they're specialty alloys engineered for E-fuels.

My pump is aluminum, my fittings are aluminum, my fuel filter housing and can are aluminum, my carburetor is the same old mystery metal they used to be made out of. I guess I'm screwed.

Actually I thought most of the blends down here used some sort of inhibitor for just that problem.

[Tommy Gun]

I'll give you $200 for it delivered, or trade you a TR 6060 for it. :look:

[68fastback]

My pump is aluminum, my fittings are aluminum, my fuel filter housing and can are aluminum, my carburetor is the same old mystery metal they used to be made out of. I guess I'm screwed.

Actually I thought most of the blends down here used some sort of inhibitor for just that problem.

Possibly -- haven't heard that. If it was that easy the manufacturers would not have pushed back so hard and for so long, I think. My take is they know it's a real problem but don't want to talk about older cars.

I think it's also that ehtanol absorbs water which facilitates even more corrosion in addition to the water/alcohol that's inherent in ethanol. There are dozens of AL alloys and my understanding is that some resist the effects of low ethanol concentrations adequately well but, in general, AL components need a coating if they'll be in contact with ethanol. I assume your pump, if AL, is either a resistant alloy or is coated. Dunno which are the 'right' alloys or coatings. I've seen that for E85 some carb makers use special 'plastic' or foam floats.

Yeah, what the heck is that metal in vintage carbs anyway -lol- it looks like AL but it cracks like a pot metal. My assumption is that any commercial fuel components are suitable for at least E10 these days ...it would seem irresponsible to do otherwise. I have read that E85/Flex fuel vehicles eliminate *all* uncoated aluminum or, alternatively, use stainless ...especially for tanks and lines too.

I think it's especially important on older cars with non-sealed (breathing) fuel systems. Even tho the Gov says older vehicles are ok with up to E10, if the fuel system 'breathes' (as virtually ever system prior to evaporative emissions standards used to) the ethanol can now pull-in way more water than what it normally contains which causes even E10 to become an even bigger corrosion problem -- especially on older vehicles (even aside from the binary problem of ethanol separation). The EPA sees this as a non-problem mostly because they see older/non-evaprorative-emissions compliant vehicles as environmental nightmare, so they'd be quite happy to see all older vehicles scrapped -- really. So it's convenient to just ignore the problem for older vehicles and say it's ok up to E10 -- but it's not and this is why SEMA has been a thorn in the EPAs side on retaining some E00 pumps in all regions. Now the EPA wants E15 or E20 but will require anything over E10 to be labeled, but that doesn't help older vehicles. The EPA absolutely refused to entertain requiring E00 to be labelled because everyone would want it once it could be easily found -- especially since you get more mileage too.

Maybe in your climate water absorbtion is less of an issue and possibly Stabil can help. but I'd be wary of uncoated aluminum in direct contact. That said, the 'pill' you machined is pretty small contact area but I have no idea how quickly it may or may not flake/corrode on E10 or what that might affect.

[Carnut]

I'll give you $200 for it delivered, or trade you a TR 6060 for it. :look:

A little sensitive ??

[Carnut]

Possibly -- haven't heard that. If it was that easy the manufacturers would not have pushed back so hard and for so long, I think. My take is they know it's a real problem but don't want to talk about older cars.

I think it's also that ehtanol absorbs water which facilitates even more corrosion in addition to the water/alcohol that's inherent in ethanol. There are dozens of AL alloys and my understanding is that some resist the effects of low ethanol concentrations adequately well but, in general, AL components need a coating if they'll be in contact with ethanol. I assume your pump, if AL, is either a resistant alloy or is coated. Dunno which are the 'right' alloys or coatings. I've seen that for E85 some carb makers use special 'plastic' or foam floats.

Yeah, what the heck is that metal in vintage carbs anyway -lol- it looks like AL but it cracks like a pot metal. My assumption is that any commercial fuel components are suitable for at least E10 these days ...it would seem irresponsible to do otherwise. I have read that E85/Flex fuel vehicles eliminate *all* uncoated aluminum or, alternatively, use stainless ...especially for tanks and lines too.

I think it's especially important on older cars with non-sealed (breathing) fuel systems. Even tho the Gov says older vehicles are ok with up to E10, if the fuel system 'breathes' (as virtually ever system prior to evaporative emissions standards used to) the ethanol can now pull-in way more water than what it normally contains which causes even E10 to become an even bigger corrosion problem -- especially on older vehicles (even aside from the binary problem of ethanol separation). The EPA sees this as a non-problem mostly because they see older/non-evaprorative-emissions compliant vehicles as environmental nightmare, so they'd be quite happy to see all older vehicles scrapped -- really. So it's convenient to just ignore the problem for older vehicles and say it's ok up to E10 -- but it's not and this is why SEMA has been a thorn in the EPAs side on retaining some E00 pumps in all regions. Now the EPA wants E15 or E20 but will require anything over E10 to be labeled, but that doesn't help older vehicles. The EPA absolutely refused to entertain requiring E00 to be labelled because everyone would want it once it could be easily found -- especially since you get more mileage too.

Maybe in your climate water absorbtion is less of an issue and possibly Stabil can help. but I'd be wary of uncoated aluminum in direct contact. That said, the 'pill' you machined is pretty small contact area but I have no idea how quickly it may or may not flake/corrode on E10 or what that might affect.

I guess I'm pretty lucky, we have low humidity here most of the time.

Absorbtion of water in gasoline from the fuel blends we have here hasn't been an issue in my experience.

Attached is a linky for info on corrosion additive standards that might be of interest http://www.ethanolrfa.org/page/-/RFA%20Corrosion%20Inhibitor%20Evaluation%20Protoco l%20073010.pdf

I'm sure it would be wise to keep an eye on the "pill" and see if develops a problem. I do have connections with a machinist that makes stuff for the space program who can make me a pill out of rarium if necessary.

[Orf]

I do have connections with a machinist that makes stuff for the space program who can make me a pill out of rarium if necessary.

What about unobtainium?

[Carnut]

What about unobtainium?

I'd try that if I could get some.

[Joe G]

What about unobtainium?The people from Avatar might start a war if we try to get more of that. :ohsnap:

[Tommy Gun]

A little sensitive ??


According to Boston Mike :rofl3:


.

[Tommy Gun]

I'd try that if I could get some.

Mrs Carnut not home?

[Joe G]

According to Boston Mike :rofl3:
.No... he says you're a Drama Queen. :tiphat:

[Carnut]

:spitcopy:



:spitcopy:



:spitcopy:

[68fastback]

I guess I'm pretty lucky, we have low humidity here most of the time.

Absorbtion of water in gasoline from the fuel blends we have here hasn't been an issue in my experience.

Attached is a linky for info on corrosion additive standards that might be of interest http://www.ethanolrfa.org/page/-/RFA Corrosion Inhibitor Evaluation Protocol 073010.pdf

I'm sure it would be wise to keep an eye on the "pill" and see if develops a problem. I do have connections with a machinist that makes stuff for the space program who can make me a pill out of rarium if necessary.

Interesting! Sounds like they've been lobbying for additives for 20 years !! ..which suggests they aren't used (as of 2010 anyway) which is my understanding ...and may never be used since the EPA would be thrilled if all older cars self-destructed tomorrow -lol. They've become as two-faced as ...we'll ...this isn't a political thread :rofl3: ...but just lets say I'm aware of how the green community and EPA view this.

---

[edit:] Instead of additives that might actually work looks like this is how the probmem wil lbe dealt with once E15 is intro'd: HR-4345 (http://ethanolproducer.com/articles/8734/ethanol-refiners-united-in-support-for-e15-liability-bill)will just shed liability from the retailer ...so they'll put a sticker on the pumps and then folks with old cars can sue the EPA -lol.

[Carnut]

I guess I need to start adding whale oil to my tank.

[Joe G]

I guess I need to start adding whale oil to my tank.Great. Now we'll have these guys on our case. :banghead:


http://scm-l3.technorati.com/10/09/03/17637/WhaleWars.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

I guess I need to start adding whale oil to my tank.


Is that what Sharun uses?

[Carnut]

Is that what Sharun uses?

That's what you get when you harpoon a Sharun. Argh.

[68fastback]

:giggle:

[Tommy Gun]

:ohsnap:

[Carnut]

I completed the return line installation.

I ended up using 1/4 inch annealed steel line from a coil so it ended up being one piece from the tank to the front of the car. I just had to be careful and plan it's routing beforehand. I ended up putting it up over the rear axle first, making one bend to get it it somewhat positioned, then worked it to the front of the car.

I needed a metered orfice so I ended up using a inch long piece of 3/8 inch solid alumimum bar that I drilled a .090 inch hole through it lengthwise. This "pill" fit perfectly inside two fittings, a female hose adapter into a flare adapter, making it the perfect "pill box". I can change the pill later if it proves too big or too small.

Finally, I ran some 3/8 inch hose from the "pill box" fitting to the unused port on the regulator. The other port still goes to the carburetor where I have a fuel pressure guage installed.

Comparing the fuel pressure before and after, 7 psi before and 4 psi after, it appears that I am returning fuel to the tank at a reasonable rate while still having plenty of volume for the carb. I am going to tweak the pressure regulator back up to about 6 or 7 and I should be good.

Now all is left is to drive it around in the heat for a few weeks to verify my issue is resolved.

It's been several weeks and it appears that the addition of the return line has fixed the problem. I guess the final verdict will be getting through those 115 plus degree days. It seems the car runs a little better, perhaps due to a cooler fuel temperature and better atomization of the fuel, not sure but it is something, hot starts are cleaner too.

[68fastback]

:wtg: ...little by little she's gettin' all worked out ...hopefully the last 'surprise' :wtg:

[HSURB]

That's what you get when you harpoon a Sharun. Argh.

That stuff is hard to get out of carpet.

Just sayin'

HSURB®

[Carnut]

That stuff is hard to get out of carpet.

Just sayin'

HSURB®

You have to cut it out.

[Carnut]

Replaced the alternator on the 66 today. Ordered a one wire 100 amp unit from Summit for 82.95. Made by Tough Stuf, supposedly all made in USA with all new components they claim. . I thought it was a heck of a good price. Uses a Delco 10 SI case with a Ford front housing for ease of installation.

I also replaced the battery wire (alternator to battery) wire with an 8 gauge instead of the original 10 gauge.

I had a 61 amp in there, and was giving up the "ghost". New one puts out 14.4 volts at the battery terminal with all of the accessories on, dual cooling fans, fuel pump, radio, lights, and heater fan. The other one was putting out less than 12 with the same load.

[Tommy Gun]

Why do you need a heater fan? :popcorn:

.

[68fastback]

Replaced the alternator on the 66 today. Ordered a one wire 100 amp unit from Summit for 82.95. Made by Tough Stuf, supposedly all made in USA with all new components they claim. . I thought it was a heck of a good price. Uses a Delco 10 SI case with a Ford front housing for ease of installation.

I also replaced the battery wire (alternator to battery) wire with an 8 gauge instead of the original 10 gauge.

I had a 61 amp in there, and was giving up the "ghost". New one puts out 14.4 volts at the battery terminal with all of the accessories on, dual cooling fans, fuel pump, radio, lights, and heater fan. The other one was putting out less than 12 with the same load.

Sweet! 14.4v with accessories on is superb! :banana:

[68fastback]

Why do you need a heater fan? :popcorn:

.

...it does get cold in winter in the desert :shades:

[Carnut]

Yeah, what he ^ said

[Tommy Gun]

What, like 55 degrees? :popcorn:

[badboy500]

I am starting my 66 now, do you still have your old 8" rear end ? I need one to replace my 7 1/4 " . I will be keeping the I6 in the car but need the 5 lug setup to match the frt 5 lug disk setup.

[Carnut]

I am starting my 66 now, do you still have your old 8" rear end ? I need one to replace my 7 1/4 " . I will be keeping the I6 in the car but need the 5 lug setup to match the frt 5 lug disk setup.

I do but the shipping would probably be more than trying to get one locally.

[badboy500]

I do but the shipping would probably be more than trying to get one locally.

Not so sure, I cant find a good part out here. What gears are in yours and what would you need for it? also is it a track lock or open dif??
if the price and the ship is inline I would move on it asap ...I am looking to have the remod done on the 66 by end of sep this year. this is a very fast pace project. 3 months or less.
It is for BG ,...she just don't know yet.

Thanks Mr carnut...

[Tommy Gun]

She knows now. :doh:

[Tommy Gun]

Is this still happening?


.

[Carnut]

Still running good.

[68fastback]

...has to be a blast to take out for a spin!! :banana: ;-)

[Carnut]

...has to be a blast to take out for a spin!! :banana: ;-)

I did last night and yes it was.

[68fastback]

<sigh> you need to move back east :shades: :lol:

[Carnut]

1. Taxes too high
2. Too many liberals
3 It's east of the Mississippi
4. It's either too humid or too cold.
5. It might fall of into the ocean.
6. It gets hurricanes.
7. It might freeze first when the next Ice Age comes.
8. People talk funny there.

[Tommy Gun]

:iagree:

[Gr8snkbite]

Still running good.


:wtg:

[Carnut]

:rofl3: ...geophysical design thread :giggle:

(is this thread officially open to fun now that ol' Bessie is built and running? :look:)


It was pretty much PW ed to begin with.

[Gr8snkbite]

I'll keep it clean....:grin:

:cop2:

[Carnut]

Amazing how people just disappear with the stroke of a button.

[Gr8snkbite]

:innocent:

[Joe G]

Amazing how people just disappear with the stroke of a button.:ninja3:

[Carnut]

Ooh, Ooh. I remembered some technical stuff about the Mustang I should mention.

I had vapor lock issues earlier this summer and posted that I had installed a "poor mans" return system on the fuel line. I also insulated a couple spots on the line.

Well, I made it through several months of really high temps and the vapor lock has not returned. No more overheated pump either.

I also ran the valves, check float level and timing. Everything was perfect. Engine uses literally no oil, which is amazing for a stroker motor. It never gets hot in traffic on hot days either.

Still haven't painted the hood. Waiting to win the lottery.

[Joe G]

Ooh, Ooh. I remembered some technical stuff about the Mustang I should mention.

I had vapor lock issues earlier this summer and posted that I had installed a "poor mans" return system on the fuel line. I also insulated a couple spots on the line.

Well, I made it through several months of really high temps and the vapor lock has not returned. No more overheated pump either.

I also ran the valves, check float level and timing. Everything was perfect. Engine uses literally no oil, which is amazing for a stroker motor. It never gets hot in traffic on hot days either.
.Great news! :wtg:

[Joe G]

Still haven't painted the hood. Waiting to win the lottery.If I win, I'll have it painted for ya.

[Carnut]

If I win, I'll have it painted for ya.

WIth something other than house paint I hope.

[Joe G]

WIth something other than house paint I hope.No guarantees. :look:

[Carnut]

Shucks. :crutch:

[Tommy Gun]

WIth something other than house paint I hope.


:wow2:

[68fastback]

Ooh, Ooh. I remembered some technical stuff about the Mustang I should mention.

I had vapor lock issues earlier this summer and posted that I had installed a "poor mans" return system on the fuel line. I also insulated a couple spots on the line.

Well, I made it through several months of really high temps and the vapor lock has not returned. No more overheated pump either.

I also ran the valves, check float level and timing. Everything was perfect. Engine uses literally no oil, which is amazing for a stroker motor. It never gets hot in traffic on hot days either.

Still haven't painted the hood. Waiting to win the lottery.

:wtg: ...another well-engineered improvised solution!! :banana:

[Orf]

WIth something other than house paint I hope.

Rustoleum?

[Carnut]

:hey2:

[Orf]

:hey2:

What? It comes in blue.

[68fastback]

:lol: I'll admit to have touched-up the OLD Taurus with Rustoleum :hide: ...the door bottoms, spare-tire well, engine compartment. Nothing but the best for the old Taurus :haha:

[Carnut]

What? It comes in blue.

It's fiberglass, it doesn't rust. :waiting2:

[Orf]

It's fiberglass, it doesn't rust. :waiting2:
Better safe, than sorry...

[Carnut]

I'm already kind of sorry.:rolleyes:

[Tommy Gun]

:spitcopy:

[Carnut]

WOW, haven't been on this page for quite some time.

Had to sort an electrical issue. The problem was I didn't have a right side tail light. Okay, no problem, found I had a bad connector. Replaced connector and now have no right hand turn signal or brake lights on either side. Checked for power to bulb socket, the insulated socket crumbled so, no problem, I bought a new housing and socket assembly. Still no brake or right hand turn signals but I had a tail light now. Checked for power to the wire connector to the pigtail, no power for turn signal.

Since I didn't have brake lights on either side, I check the brake light switch. No good.

I found the connector for the turn and stop lights under the dash, it had to be this, the turn signal switch. I had power on both wires on the uphill side so I pulled the connector apart and sprayed it with electronic contact cleaner and scraped the inside of the connector and spray some more. Put it back together and now have turn signals but no brake lights. Double checked the brake light switch, it had power to it but no power out, obviously bad.

I am chalking up the brake light switch to coincidence, the rest to just old corrosion on wires and old connectors. Still have to replace the brake light switch, I'm think of just going to a hydraulic switch instead of the stock mechanical one that I have had to replace a few times now.

[Tommy Gun]

4 years :faint:

[Carnut]

Well, I guess you could say it has held up pretty well for four years, with the exception of some 50 year old stuff I didn't replace.

[Tommy Gun]

Well, I guess you could say it has held up pretty well for four years, with the exception of some 50 year old stuff I didn't replace.


You talking about me or your Mustang? :trouble:


Lol

[68fastback]

Glad you figured it out, 'nut.

---

Wow -- time flies when you're having fun!!

[Alloy Dave]

Those pesky little problems are some times the most pleasurable to finally resolve...good job.

[The Bone]

It may be time to really look at the wiring and replace some of it.

[Carnut]

Generally I would agree. I replaced every harness in the car with the exception of the one I had problems with. The one in question appears to be in pretty good shape but for the connectors I had issues with. I replaced the one (at the light assembly) and thoroughly cleaned the other connector. I also ran a voltage drop test and it seemed to be pretty good with a .1 loss front to back.

Unless I continue to have issues with this circuit, I will probably leave it alone. I have to tear out parts of the interior to replace the whole thing, which is why I didn't do it at the time. I do have some interior work planned down the road, maybe I will think about it replacing it then.

I still haven't dealt with the brake light switch, it was new a couple years ago. Cheap reproduction parts I guess, still debating whether or not to just replace it with a low pressure hydraulic switch.

[Tommy Gun]

Generally I would agree. I replaced every harness in the car with the exception of the one I had problems with.......



There's your sign :doh:


.

[Carnut]

:doh2:

[68fastback]

Nope. Here it is

http://stangsunited.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15860&stc=1 :hiding: ;-)

[Joe G]

Nope. Here it is

http://stangsunited.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15860&stc=1 :hiding: ;-)

:goodone:

[Carnut]

Today, I installed a hydraulic brake light switch and got rid of the mechanical version. I ran a new pair of wires from old switch pigtail to the new switch located in the brake line block under the master cylinder. Put nylon braided sleeving on with wires with shrink tube on the connections. I found an abandoned hole thru the firewall in the perfect location so it looks as though it would be a factory install but better. The only PITA was having to find a 3/16 compression fitting to 1/8 NPT adapter for the switch to mount to the brake line block. Well there was having to work under the dash and they block was in an awfully confined space.

[68fastback]

:wtg: Hopefully a goner -- never to rear it's ugly head again!

[Carnut]

I hope so too, should last another 50 years.

[The Bone]

There isn't much room under the dash and you have to stand on your head to get under there. Sharp under there too.

[Carnut]

It is a lot easier to just pull the instrument panel if you have a lot of work to do under there.

[The Bone]

I did that too and i even replaced all the dash pieces and they were hard to line up again.

[Tommy Gun]

easier for a squirrel :sizematters:

[Carnut]

:flex:

[Tommy Gun]

:popcorn:



20292



.

[68fastback]

:yikes: A Falcstangchero? :faint: Waaaay kewl!

[Joe G]

:yikes: A Falcstangchero? :faint: Waaaay kewl!

Almost as good as a Falconova. :look:

[Tommy Gun]

:umno:

[68fastback]

Almost as good as a Falconova. :look:

:banana:

[Tommy Gun]

Is that like a Supernova?

[Carnut]

Now that is just disgusting.

[Tommy Gun]

:wtg:

[Carnut]

I have finally been able to get back to work on the old 66. Replaced the Frankenstein 3 member with a complete Strange unit, the driveshaft and transmission extension housing. Dealing with NVH issues. Planning on tearing the interior out and finishing the sound deadening that I didn’t have time money or a place to do it.

[68fastback]

Sweet! Do you have space with a lift now?
Yeah, sound deadening material help a bunch.

[Carnut]

Sweet! Do you have space with a lift now?
Yeah, sound deadening material help a bunch.
No. I’ve been using a buddy’s lift. Can’t really work on stuff here. Stupid HOA.

[Tommy Gun]

Sucks not being able to do it where you live. :(

[Carnut]

Sucks not being able to do it where you live. :(
I’m lucky I have a such a buddy. :mafiasmilie:

[68fastback]

That's great! :wtg:

Hope you get to enjoy it more once the weather cools a bit...

[Boston Mike]

No. I’ve been using a buddy’s lift. Can’t really work on stuff here. Stupid HOA.

but i bet you have really nice Christmas decorations in the common areas

[Carnut]

No but the golf course is well groomed.

[Tommy Gun]

:rofl3:

[Carnut]

Put on new front tie rod ends and tires. Inside edge worn. Going to the alignment shop this week. Our freeways have an expansion joint every 15feet and cause the steering wheel to shake due to the rythem they cause. So a bought a steering stabilizer and need figure out how to make it work. Tight fit due to headers. We will see how it goes.

[twobjshelbys]

Put on new front tie rod ends and tires. Inside edge worn. Going to the alignment shop this week. Our freeways have an expansion joint every 15feet and cause the steering wheel to shake due to the rythem they cause. So a bought a steering stabilizer and need figure out how to make it work. Tight fit due to headers. We will see how it goes.

We have them here too on the 215 loop, along with grooved pavement. The first time I was driving my truck home (in 2004!) and hit the area of 215 and I15 the truck started to wobble and heave. I thought it was falling apart! It almost threw me into an other lane. The rear end is so light with no load that it set up a oscillation. Spooky. It still does it but now I know it's coming so don't let it get out of control. I could add some weight to the rear but then it would get worse mileage than the already bad mileage it gets. I'm thinking when Dodge/Ram does a new Dakota I might be in the market.

[Boston Mike]

That's great! :wtg:

Hope you get to enjoy it more once the weather cools a bit...

Sure was hot yesterday at the Cardinals game.

[68fastback]

We have them here too on the 215 loop, along with grooved pavement. The first time I was driving my truck home (in 2004!) and hit the area of 215 and I15 the truck started to wobble and heave. I thought it was falling apart! It almost threw me into an other lane. The rear end is so light with no load that it set up a oscillation. Spooky. It still does it but now I know it's coming so don't let it get out of control. I could add some weight to the rear but then it would get worse mileage than the already bad mileage it gets. I'm thinking when Dodge/Ram does a new Dakota I might be in the market.

Makes you wonder how many accidents are actually caused by such DOT-mandated 'road safety' features :doh2:

[twobjshelbys]

Makes you wonder how many accidents are actually caused by such DOT-mandated 'road safety' features :doh2:

This is just a load balancing thing. The rear end is pretty stiff. It will toss the rear end on some bridges on I70 in Utah and Colorado too. It's always the ones where the road bed meets the bridge at an angle and the rear end gets tossed a little. This truck pre-dates the traction control nannies which might help smooth it out a little.

[68fastback]

This is just a load balancing thing. The rear end is pretty stiff. It will toss the rear end on some bridges on I70 in Utah and Colorado too. It's always the ones where the road bed meets the bridge at an angle and the rear end gets tossed a little. This truck pre-dates the traction control nannies which might help smooth it out a little.

Just the asymetric bounce-jog ...yeah, my old F250 Trailer Special used to do that a bit too.

[twobjshelbys]

Just the asymetric bounce-jog ...yeah, my old F250 Trailer Special used to do that a bit too.

Not a big deal since I can pretty well predict when it will happen if the road and bridge aren't flat. It can be a pucker moment though if the roads are wet or icy/snowy.

[68fastback]

Not a big deal since I can pretty well predict when it will happen if the road and bridge aren't flat. It can be a pucker moment though if the roads are wet or icy/snowy.

lol -- I can appreciate that!

[Carnut]

232652326623267A few pics of added parts last few weeks

[Carnut]

23268Pic of final ride height 2 inches lower than stock.

[68fastback]

:wow: I reeeeally like how it sits ...and the unadorned tires (no visible lettering) look great too.
Are you considering eventually adding the fender emblem ...they're very understated ...could be a classy touch? ;-)

[Carnut]

:wow: I reeeeally like how it sits ...and the unadorned tires (no visible lettering) look great too.
Are you considering eventually adding the fender emblem ...they're very understated ...could be a classy touch? ;-)
Thanks. I had it about an inch lower but it didn’t look right. Regarding the emblem, I think I like the clean look better.

[68fastback]

232652326623267A few pics of added parts last few weeks

:wtg: ...nice mesh pattern too ;-)

[68fastback]

Thanks. I had it about an inch lower but it didn’t look right. Regarding the emblem, I think I like the clean look better.

Yaah, an inch lower would be too low.

Funny, in my original post I was musing about clean looking better ...also nice an stealth :weg:

[Boston Mike]

Thanks. I had it about an inch lower but it didn’t look right. Regarding the emblem, I think I like the clean look better.

why don't you get some Cobra emblems and some GT500 stripes for the side.

[68fastback]

:spitcopy:

[onecrazydog]

23268Pic of final ride height 2 inches lower than stock.


Beauty!!

[The Bone]

Looks pretty clean Carnut.

[Carnut]

why don't you get some Cobra emblems and some GT500 stripes for the side.
Well that’s an idea.

[Tommy Gun]

23268Pic of final ride height 2 inches lower than stock.


Nice :wtg:

[Carnut]

I took the 66 on a ride yesterday after new tires, balance and alignment. I did just fine at 98.5 mph according to my GPS. I was trying to keep it down but what the hell.

[The Bone]

Very nice LOL

[68fastback]

:wtg: :chirp:

[Carnut]

I’ve been busy with the 66. Finished the sound deadening mat throughout. Installed new carpet. Wired car for new amp and speakers. Replacing radio with Bluetooth. Rockford speakers and amp. Had to do a lot of manipulation to get carpet to fit right. I am going to have the interior rear tub covered with vinyl.

[Carnut]

2353623537

[onecrazydog]

Nice progress!!

[68fastback]

How ya been, Nut?

Looking good!

Fatmat Rattletrap :banana: nice stuff!

[Tommy Gun]

So now the car weighs 200 lbs more? :look:


Lol

[tekheavy]

:ohsnap:

[68fastback]

:lol: maybe 15# if just what's in the pic -- not as heavy as Dynamat

...but still a half-ton less than a GT500 :spitcopy: :hiding: :lol:

[Carnut]

Nice progress!! Thanks. It will be January before I’m done.


How ya been, Nut?

Looking good!

Fatmat Rattletrap :banana: nice stuff! Doing fine, Doc says so anyway.


So now the car weighs 200 lbs more? :look:


Lol more like 50lbs. Ordered and usd 75 Sf of the stuff. So I figured I would just lose some weight.


:ohsnap:


:lol: maybe 15# if just what's in the pic -- not as heavy as Dynamat

...but still a half-ton less than a GT500 :spitcopy: :hiding: :lol: Bwah ha ha. 500 hp.

[Alloy Dave]

Good to see you "get er done" Bruce...let's hear a sound audio of the stereo when done.

Play Barry Manilow for TG. :look:

[Tommy Gun]

:sleeping:

[Carnut]

This is taking forever. Waiting on parts and the upholstery guy. Still gettysome rearend noise but multiple layer of sound dampening have helped a bunch. Frustrating. The old console cracked and I had to replace it. The seat glides fell apart when I removed them so they are now new.

[68fastback]

Yo Nut! Good to hear from ya!

Sounds like it's getting there even if occasionally one forward and two back.

[Tommy Gun]

:faint:

[Carnut]

23986

[Carnut]

Apparently I am a tech idiot. Pics above of new vinyl on the rear tub. It’s all one piece of vinyl on each panel massaged to fit over the
many contours of the piece.

Its a a lot nicer looking in person. Now to finish the rest of it.

[68fastback]

:wtg: Sweet -- it will be like new -- or better than new -- when you're done!

[Tommy Gun]

Wow, very nice.

[Carnut]

23995Finished recarpeting the folding seat and sport deck. Time for my nap.

[The Bone]

I wish I had put Dynomat in my 68. That thing is so noisy. LOL like the old days

[Carnut]

I wish I had put Dynomat in my 68. That thing is so noisy. LOL like the old days
I did a lot more than just the mat. New firewall pad. Fixed everything that rattled under dash, seated the instrument cluster and other things with felt. I plan to add rear axle insulator pads on the perches that came on just about every Ford prouct except the Mustang.

[68fastback]

23995Finished recarpeting the folding seat and sport deck. Time for my nap.

Nice job!! Haven't seen one of those in a long time -- just so cool!

[Carnut]

I’m thinking of adding these to the Mustang to reduce a rear end harmonic that I have fighting for years. The came on just about all Ford and Mercury of the era except the Mustang. Not sure why not.

23996

[68fastback]

That's a serious spring-pack! Is that stock?

[Carnut]

That's a serious spring-pack! Is that stock?
Stock for Falcon, Fairlane, Torino, Comet, Cougar but not Mustang (not used).

[Tommy Gun]

I’m thinking of adding these to the Mustang to reduce a rear end harmonic that I have fighting for years. The came on just about all Ford and Mercury of the era except the Mustang. Not sure why not.

23996


Had those rubber blocks on my Bobcat. :look:

.

[68fastback]

Stock for Falcon, Fairlane, Torino, Comet, Cougar but not Mustang (not used).

Huh ...interesting!

I think my '68 (390 non-GT) either had one less leaf or maybe the length progression was different.
Also my '68 390 (non GT) had a different configuration vs my friend's '68 390 GT but I can't remember now exactly what the difference was.

Back then Ford was big on tailoring the spring packs not just to the model/engine but also to options ...e.g. A/C cars sometimes got different spring rates (in the front) than non-A/C cars as did heavier engine.

[Carnut]

Huh ...interesting!

I think my '68 (390 non-GT) either had one less leaf or maybe the length progression was different.
Also my '68 390 (non GT) had a different configuration vs my friend's '68 390 GT but I can't remember now exactly what the difference was.

Back then Ford was big on tailoring the spring packs not just to the model/engine but also to options ...e.g. A/C cars sometimes got different spring rates (in the front) than non-A/C cars as did heavier engine.

I am talking about the rubber insulators, top and bottom of the spring. Mustang is one of the few Fords that did not use them. I was just wonder why would Ford put them on just about everything BUT the Mustang. My Mustang uses the 4 leaf spring pack. I'm seriously thinking of adding these to reduce a harmonic in the differential that won't go away. The 3rd member had been replaced several times as well as the ring and pinion gears and other components. The noise is speed specific on float and has not changed with all of the previous service with all of professionals say it is a weird harmonic transferring to the body.

[68fastback]

I am talking about the rubber insulators, top and bottom of the spring. Mustang is one of the few Fords that did not use them. I was just wonder why would Ford put them on just about everything BUT the Mustang. My Mustang uses the 4 leaf spring pack. I'm seriously thinking of adding these to reduce a harmonic in the differential that won't go away. The 3rd member had been replaced several times as well as the ring and pinion gears and other components. The noise is speed specific on float and has not changed with all of the previous service with all of professionals say it is a weird harmonic transferring to the body.

Ah, yeah ...my '68 didn't have those rubbers either.

Maybe the rubbers will help[ isolate it.
Just for the heck of it have you tried having the wheels rebalanced or road-force balanced. I wondering if a slight wheel imbalance might be resonating with the axle assembly. It's not mounting position related if the wheels have been off and back on and still there, so next step up might be wheel balance or a wheel that is very slightly warped ...sometimes they will balance fine but a slight warp can still make the wheel 'thrum' (if that's what you're hearing).

[Carnut]

My deal fell through on a radio for the 66. Since I’m buying, I’m resarhing Custom Autosound and Retro Autosound. CA seems to have more bad reviews but you know the internet, idiots not happy with crappy installations. These are the only two that offer moedern radios the fit the 66 dash. Anyone with experience?

[68fastback]

Are these (https://www.retromanufacturing.com/pages/product-result?rq=yr_1966~mk_ford~md_mustang) the ones? Pretty cool!

[Tommy Gun]

Yeah, that is cool. Having the modern innards w the retro face.

Dave needs this, his radio in the Camaro pretty much sucks. :giggle:

.

[The Bone]

Custom Autosound has been around for many years. If you have a crappy product you wouldn't last long. Just a thought.

[Carnut]

2408624087Final install panels

[68fastback]

Sweet!! ...just so nice to see the interior of a '66FB! Very cool!

[Carnut]

Next step install seat and floor. I’ve already re-carpeted and plishehed chrome trim. 24088

[68fastback]

(some sort of squirrel-speak? :giggle: -------------------------------^^^^^)

:hiding:

[Tommy Gun]

Typing w acorns packed in his cheeks. :look:

[Carnut]

That’s a new word for polishing with Flitz

[68fastback]

:biggrin:

Flitz is great stuff! Try Simichrome (https://simichrome.factoryoutletstore.com/?msclkid=fce16d52530e173b411c3136139533f3&cid=44378&chid=1600&campaignid=71448470&adgroupid=541494952&adid=840338796&targetid=kwd-7485795168:loc-190&matchtype=e&device=c&network=o) sometime -- awesome!

When I was restoring an amp a few years ago a pro restorer told me about it and it was amazing how well it worked on the chrome. Made in Germany and not cheap, but works like magic on vintage chrome-plated chassis parts. He had heard about it from a Harley restoration in PA somewhere who told him about it ...said it's also excellent for removing heat discoloration on exhaust pipes (which I've never tried -lol). Does work well on other metals too but is simply magical on chrome in need of TLC. Dunno if chemistry is similar to Flitz but it does have warnings on it about skin contact, tho didn't seem to bother me (except I grew a few new fingers :rofl3:).

[Carnut]

Interior complete. 24122

[68fastback]

:wtg: That's looking great, nut!! ...even sideways! :giggle:

[Tommy Gun]

24203


.

[68fastback]

:grin:

[Carnut]

What’s up? Can’t post pictures.

[Tommy Gun]

What’s up? Can’t post pictures.


Will have to look into it. I couldn’t do it from my phone. Did you try from a PC or mobile?

[68fastback]

Bruce, what browser are you using ...software update here has hobbled IE-11. won't let me upload pics either (or type faster than a snail -lol). Actually, acts like the upload worked but the pic never actually appears. So I have to use another browser to type normal or upload pics :doh2:

[68fastback]

^ ^ ^ Oh, look ...it did the upload ...you just can't see what you uploaded until you complete the post :doh:

[Tommy Gun]

Our software was updated several versions. I believe it was the last version in a somewhat outdated software program. Joker suggested changing to a new software in the coming years. With that said some browsers may not support everything we have here. :(

[68fastback]

It's weird b/c sometimes I can type fairly quickly -- like right now. Other times it's totally unusable -- have to type characters 1-2 SECONDS apart. Difficult to even highlight text or post links ...sometimes not at all.
I guess I'll have to eventually use a different browser ...I just like the 'feel' of IE best. Works ok w/ Edge but I have to do thongs differently.

[HSURB]

It's weird b/c sometimes I can type fairly quickly -- like right now. Other times it's totally unusable -- have to type characters 1-2 SECONDS apart. Difficult to even highlight text or post links ...sometimes not at all.
I guess I'll have to eventually use a different browser ...I just like the 'feel' of IE best. Works ok w/ Edge but I have to do thongs differently.

It is the new Long Post Filter!!!!!!!!:haha::haha::haha:

HSURB®

[68fastback]

It is the new Long Post Filter!!!!!!!!:haha::haha::haha:

HSURB®

:spitcopy: :haha: ...t's wrkng!

[Carnut]

I tried posting from my iPhone. Safari browser. Always worked before. The long post filter worked last week and I just gave up. Anyway put new tires and 17 nittos on the 66 but you don’t get to see the car

[Tommy Gun]

:sad2:

[68fastback]

:( wnt 2 c car :rant: ;-)

[Carnut]

��

[Carnut]

I hear there’s new software and stuff. I’m going to try and post pics of new 17 wheels. Tires are Nitto 555’s. 247022470324704225/45 up front and 245/45 rear. I can actually get car to hook up now.

[68fastback]

Lookin' great, Bruce! Love how the car sits too. :banana:

[Tommy Gun]

Nice :wtg:


Guess a little bird told you about the site upgrade :tease2:

[Carnut]

Spent some time on the 66’s motor. It’s a solid roller motor so it was time to run the valves. Slight adjustments required which is a good thing. New Felpro silicone valve cover gaskets. Also changed the plugs with everything all good there. 7.5 quarts of Valvoline 20/50 VR-1 racing oil and a premium Wix filter. While I was there I cleaned and polished on the motor. 24808

[68fastback]

Looking good, Bruce.

Wix filters are great ...they're built like a tank compared to some of the total crap that's out there -- like Fram, STP and the other cheapos.

[Carnut]

Replaced upper bearing on steering column. While I had it apart, I noticed commutator for horn button and turn signal was messed up. So I replaced it with a billet aluminum one and a new billet steering wheel spacer.

[Carnut]

I was never real happy with the amount of pressure I had to put on the brake pedal after I converted to four wheel disc brakes. I had a power brake conversion from MP Brakes that utilized a 7 inch single diaphragm booster. I also utilized a vacuum canister. There is not a lot of room and a 7 inch booster is the common offering. After some research and calculations, I found I had minimal pressure for my system. I found I could just squeeze in a 9 inch single diaphragm booster and clear everything. So I combined the with a 1 inch master designed for a disc/disc system from a 99/20 Blazer which nearly doubles my brake pressure. The Blazer cylinder is short and gives plenty of clearance from the spring tower. I also changed the pedal ratio from 6:1 to 4:1 by moving the rod pivot down 1 inch. Brakes now work great, as well as my 99 Lightning. 25684

[68fastback]

Nice booster adaptation, Bruce!!

...rep points for the squirrel ;-)

[Carnut]

2609626097
I made this unit up to throw in the trunk of my 66 in case my MSD goes out on me on the road. I’ve wire it to simply plug in to my ignition harness without the need for tools. The heat sink is an AC Delco part and the module is a cheap GM 4 pin HEI. I’ve also gathered a spare alternator, mag pick up, fuel pump, coil and Holley Quick kit for the carburetor. The goal is to be able to fix anything that doesn’t need a tow truck.

[68fastback]

2609626097
I made this unit up to throw in the trunk of my 66 in case my MSD goes out on me on the road. I’ve wire it to simply plug in to my ignition harness without the need for tools. The heat sink is an AC Delco part and the module is a cheap GM 4 pin HEI. I’ve also gathered a spare alternator, mag pick up, fuel pump, coil and Holley Quick kit for the carburetor. The goal is to be able to fix anything that doesn’t need a tow truck.


Hey Bruce!! Happy new year!!!

Sounds like a great touring kit! Boy scout motto: Be Prepared ...and no sniveling ;-)

[Carnut]

I finally joined the modern age and converted the 66 over to electronic fuel injection. I went with the Holley Sniper system which is a self tuning system. It included going to a Hall effect distributor and an in tank fuel pump. Installation took a day’s worth of time and I had no issues. I did have to weld a bung in the exhaust for the O2 sensor, re-plumb parts of the fuel system and run dedicated power and ground from my trunk mounted battery. Total parts cost was just under $2,000. I’m pretty happy with the change.

[68fastback]

Bruce, that sounds like a really nice conversion! :banana:

Still probably looks old school too!

If you get a chance post up some pics, if you would.

[Tommy Gun]

I finally joined the modern age and converted the 66 over to electronic fuel injection. I went with the Holley Sniper system which is a self tuning system. It included going to a Hall effect distributor and an in tank fuel pump. Installation took a day’s worth of time and I had no issues. I did have to weld a bung in the exhaust for the O2 sensor, re-plumb parts of the fuel system and run dedicated power and ground from my trunk mounted battery. Total parts cost was just under $2,000. I’m pretty happy with the change.


That would have taken some guys 4-5 days lol

.

[68fastback]

The squirrel is experienced! ;-)

[Carnut]

The squirrel is experienced! ;-)
Real world test on the Sniper. Average fuel consumption on a 500 mile trip that include some spirited driving ( up hill twisty roads. 19.8 Mpg. Worst was 14 and best 22.

[twobjshelbys]

Real world test on the Sniper. Average fuel consumption on a 500 mile trip that include some spirited driving ( up hill twisty roads. 19.8 Mpg. Worst was 14 and best 22.

Wow. How did it handle altitude?

[68fastback]

Real world test on the Sniper. Average fuel consumption on a 500 mile trip that include some spirited driving ( up hill twisty roads. 19.8 Mpg. Worst was 14 and best 22.

That's not bad at all!