Ford Falcon

[65SC]

"Stodgy” was Ford’s own term for the image that the compact Ford Falcon carried by 1963. Perhaps it never entirely shook that image (at least not in the U.S.), but with the help of some overseas rally efforts and some talented drivers, Ford made a good run at doing so over the next couple of years. Next month, one of the stars of those efforts, the ex-Bo Ljungfeldt 1964 Ford Falcon Futura Sprint coupe, will return to Monaco – the scene of its greatest triumph – to cross the auction block

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/04/27/monte-carlo-class-winning-ford-falcon-to-cross-the-block-at-monaco-auction/?refer=news






:ford:

[Carnut]

I think they are good looking cars, the Sprint that is.

[Birdman]

Always liked that body style. The Falcon was the forerunner to the Mustang!....basically built on the same chassis.

[Carnut]

1051010511105121051310514

Here are a few pics of my 64 Sprint.

Powered by a Cleveland with a BDS blower and dual quads. Straight axle front end.

I just finished replacing the tires, the backs are 31 x 16.5 x 15 Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR's which have a tread width of 14 inches. They look wider in person, my lens setting kind of put them out of porportion. When I get it off the rack I will post more.

[68fastback]

1051010511105121051310514

Here are a few pics of my 64 Sprint.

Powered by a Cleveland with a BDS blower and dual quads. Straight axle front end.

I just finished replacing the tires, the backs are 31 x 16.5 x 15 Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR's which have a tread width of 14 inches. They look wider in person, my lens setting kind of put them out of porportion. When I get it off the rack I will post more.

:drool: ...making me smile, Bruce -- those tires look great too!! :banana:

[onecrazydog]

Sweet!! That shop looks huge, like the tires!!

[Carnut]

I've had a number of people tell me it was a nice looking Nova.


Morons.

[68fastback]

:doh2: :yes: lol

[Joe G]

Nice Nova! :wtg:




















:sofa:

[Carnut]

Nice Nova! :wtg:




















:sofa:

As I was sayin'

[Joe G]

:haha:

[mustang loco]

Wow,very nice Bruce..love that blower and the rear meats!! How/where does a Falcon look a Nova?

[Carnut]

Thanks.

Yeah, over the years the number of dufii that have thought it was a Nova is amazing. I doubt they ever heard of a Falcon.

[Joe G]

What's a Falcon?


:look:

[Orf]

Nice Nova! :wtg:

Dufus.

That's a Nova II, like this one...
http://www.remarkablecars.com/main/chevrolet/chevrolet-00011.jpg


:eyesinmailbox:

[Tommy Gun]

We call them box Nova's around here.



...not the Falcon, Orf's pic.

[Carnut]

What's a Falcon?


:look:

A very important car, without it, there may have been no Mustang.

[Joe G]

:rofl:


You know I'm :jk:, right?

[Carnut]

:rofl:


You know I'm :jk:, right?

You're J/G.

[Joe G]

You're J/G.

:hi:

[Alloy Dave]

Hey Bruce, how come when I was there a few years ago I didn't get a ride in your Nova?

[Joe G]

Hey Bruce, how come when I was there a few years ago I didn't get a ride in your Nova?

Me either. I only got a ride in a Vette. :redcard: :nonono:

[Carnut]

Ummm.....................cause the Vette made you scream like girls. I didn't want to have the clean the seats in the "Nova".

[Joe G]

Ummm.....................cause the Vette made you scream like girls. I didn't want to have the clean the seats in the "Nova".

Oh... that makes sense. :lol:

[Carnut]

Really?

[Tommy Gun]

:wow2:

[68fastback]

:giggle:

[mustang loco]

:giggle:

[Gr8snkbite]

sweet bruce....:wtg:

[Carnut]

Things went to crap today on the 64 Falcon.

The car hadn't run since 2006

I finished replacing all the fuel lines, rebuilt the carbs, and other stuff. In preparation of turning it over, I pulled the plugs and notice a really strange looking plug in Number 7. I decided to pull it through with a breaker bar and was frozen up. Crap.

Well, I rocked back forth for about an hour and got it to move and it spit water and antifreeze out the Number 7 hole. I kept rocking it and finally got it to push through and it spit all the water out. I was thinking that maybe some Solder Seal would fix my issues, I was hopefull anyway. As I continued to spin the motor through (I had the valve cover off), one of the rocker arms was barely moving. Number 7 intake. Double crap.

I checked the lash at the top and bottom and it was okay. The camshaft has a flat lobe on it and not because its a flat tappet cam either.

So now I have a leak and bad cam. The engine will be full of metal.

So now I am going to have to go through the engine and have it vatted. I may a cracked head or block. No water in the oil is apparent but at this point it doesn't matter.

This is going to be a real chore.

[Tommy Gun]

:ohsnap:

[Gr8snkbite]

Man that sucks....:nonono:

[68fastback]

Hmmmm ...not sure what you mean by 'pulling/pushing through,' but prolly something succumbed in the noble-metal electrolysis war. Interesting that the oil is ok yet the intake valve seemingly was exposed to coolant. Hmmm -- could be just a corroded gasket (at a water passage) let the cylinder 'fog' while sitting. That could corrode the plug and maybe the intake was open. Hopefully not a cracked head. Alloy heads?

[Carnut]

Hmmmm ...not sure what you mean by 'pulling/pushing through,' but prolly something succumbed in the noble-metal electrolysis war. Interesting that the oil is ok yet the intake valve seemingly was exposed to coolant. Hmmm -- could be just a corroded gasket (at a water passage) let the cylinder 'fog' while sitting. That could corrode the plug and maybe the intake was open. Hopefully not a cracked head. Alloy heads?

pulling/pushing through means rotating the engine with the use of a breaker bar. The cylinder was full of water not just a fog. The oil not having water in it probably means its not a crack in the lower portion, ie the cylinder. Pretty sure it is not the head gasket as it was in one cylinder only. I'm think the iron Cleveland head or a high cylinder crack, above the lever of the top of the piston. Alloy heads are not available for the Cleveland although you retro Windsor heads if you drill coolant holes for the block as water outlet is in the block not through the intake manifold.

The engine had to come completely apart anyway as the metal from that missing cam lobe is in the oil system now.

[68fastback]

Wow ...now I understand (I thought the plug had seized) ...doesn't sound good ...amazing the rings held back the coolant from the oil. I guess fixing it is the only way to sell it and still maximize your return -- hope so. I guess last time you ran it (2006) it was fine tho? ...or atleast seemed so?

[Carnut]

Wow ...now I understand (I thought the plug had seized) ...doesn't sound good ...amazing the rings held back the coolant from the oil. I guess fixing it is the only way to sell it and still maximize your return -- hope so. I guess last time you ran it (2006) it was fine tho? ...or atleast seemed so?

Yeah it seemed so.

6 years is enough time for an un-noticeable pin hole leak to move some volume.

As far as the cam goes, it is the intake valve, I guess the blower was able to push a charge in there. So I never felt a miss. I adjusted valves quite often so I guess the cam went flat incrementally, so as to not notice a big lash change.

[68fastback]

Yeah it seemed so.

6 years is enough time for an un-noticeable pin hole leak to move some volume.

As far as the cam goes, it is the intake valve, I guess the blower was able to push a charge in there. So I never felt a miss. I adjusted valves quite often so I guess the cam went flat incrementally, so as to not notice a big lash change.

On the brighter side, at least it's not a difficult engine to work on ...still a PITA to have to tho.

Don't 'bond' with it, Bruce!! ...then you won't be able to sell it! :hiding: ;-)

[Joe G]

Man that sucks....:nonono:
:iagree:





... but don't forget the :pics: when you take the engine apart to fix it. :wtg:

[Carnut]

:iagree:





... but don't forget the :pics: when you take the engine apart to fix it. :wtg:


That's kind of like taking pictures of a bad accident, with mortalities, ain't it?

[68fastback]

...true ...but it's sort of Carnut's breaking automotive news

:eyesinmailbox: ;-)

[Carnut]

...true ...but it's sort of Carnut's breaking automotive news

:eyesinmailbox: ;-)

Ah, a pun.


LOL

[68fastback]

:grin: maybe only 2/3 pun? :rofl3:

[Carnut]

Engine out of Falcon, ready to go to the shop.

[Joe G]

Engine out of Falcon, ready to go to the shop.
:poidh:

[Carnut]

Went to the engine shop today with my grubbies on.

Broke the motor down to the bare block. It looks like the heads were lifting under boost.

It does look like all eight cylinders in the block have been sleeved, we will know better one the block has been cleaned and magnafluxed.

As it stands today, we are going to need one new piston, a set of rings and bearings, cam lifters and pushrods (going to a roller cam), oil pump, a couple new valves, timing set, and gaskets. Machine will include honing the cylinders and cleaning up the deck and head surface, maybe one new sleeve. Probably going to go back with Cometic head gaskets and Calico coated bearings.

Good news was crank, rods, (7) pistons and heads appear good. Could have been much worse. Will know more once everything has been cleaned and inspected.

[The Bone]

Are you going with studs for the heads or bolts. I hear studs are better and stronger. I wish I had a shop to work in :sad:
It would make working on cars so much easier.
Hopefully honing is all you have to do

[Carnut]

Studs for sure.

The shop is a buddy's, he will be doing all the machine work.

[Joe G]

:needpics:

[Orf]

:needpics:

10691

:sofa:

[68fastback]

:wtg: :goodpost:

[Joe G]

Nice Nova! :yea1:

[Carnut]

:mad:

[Carnut]

I know I'm taking a big risk here but I thought I would make this post a little technical.

Per previous posts to this thread, I discussed the fact my blown 351 Cleveland had a cylinder full of water. I had pulled the engine and the block and heads are at the machine shop. Although I had my suspicions, the cause of the water intrusion into the cylinder wasn't certain.

Today, we were able to confirm the cause. The leaking cylinder had a sleeve in it. Cast iron blocks do usually not have sleeves as do aluminum blocks. The cast iron is suitably hard to withstand the wear of the piston and rings. Sleeves are used in cast iron blocks to repair the cylinder wall, usually because there is a crack into the water jacket. It is a good method of repair if done properly. The are installed by overboring the cylinder and driving a sleeve into the hole. A liberal coating of Lock Tite is used to seal and lock the sleeve into the bore. The sleeve is frozen to make it smaller and and easier to drive in; it expands even tighter into the cylinder when it warms.

The shop bored the sleeve out, slightly offset so it is paper thin on one side, making it easier to remove because you can kind of roll it a little and the whole thing pulls out. Once the sleeve was out, it was obvious. On the back of the sleeve you could see a pattern of corrosion starting from the crack in the cylinder wall and radiating out like different rivers to the top of the sleeve. The was no sign of sealant. Whomever installed the orginal sleeve really messed up, probably a unsupervised apprentice, probable thought you oiled it like a bolt (wrong).

The good news is, I don't need a new block or a cylinder head and don't have to go the expense of machining an entire green block. (and taking the risk of a thin wall and boring through it).

[Joe G]

The good news is, I don't need a new block or a cylinder head and don't have to go the expense of machining an entire green block. (and taking the risk of a thin wall and boring through it).
Great news!

So can they just remove the existing sleeves and then install new ones?

Will they first need to weld up all those cracks in the cylinder?

[Carnut]

Great news!to

So can they just remove the existing sleeves and then install new ones? Yep, just bore out the old sleeves and the new one can be installed

Will they first need to weld up all those cracks in the cylinder?No, welding would be too difficult and would probably recrack. The sleeve is a tried and proven method. The sleeve in effect is new cylinder within a cylinder.


See responses above.

[Joe G]

See responses above.
:tiphat:


Thanks.














Can't wait to see the Nova back on the road! :wtg:














:sofa:

[68fastback]

Glad to hear not too much damamge, Bruce ...sounds like it seeped right into the oilpan via the corrosion between sleeve and cylinder ...makes sense!

[Carnut]

:tiphat:

Can't wait to see the Nova back on the road! :wtg:


:sofa:


How big a nova do you want to see? :boink:

[Joe G]

How big a nova do you want to see? :boink:

I like the super kind. :grin:

[68fastback]

:giggle:

[68fastback]

Wow! Here's another cool Nova Falcon (http://racing.ford.com/enthusiasts/newsroom/our-ford-fan-spotlight-shines-brightly-to-wrap-up-2012-in-spectacular-fashion-1293055157145/);-)

[Carnut]

The neatest looking roof line of the Ford line up in the sixties.

Needs something big sticking out of the hood.

[68fastback]

The neatest looking roof line of the Ford line up in the sixties.

Needs something big sticking out of the hood.

So true!! ;-)

[Carnut]

The Falcon engine redo is limbo.

The engine shop had to move over the holidays and they are in their new faciltiy. Problem is, none of the equipment is wired up yet.

I wanted to have it done while people were down here for Barrett Jackson. I am really disappointed.

[Joe G]

:banghead:

Were you hoping to sell it?

[Carnut]

:banghead:

Were you hoping to sell it?

Yeah, it is more of kind of need to sell it. Thought I would get top dollar with the Barrett Jackson crowd.

[Joe G]

Sorry to hear that Bruce. :nonono:

[Joe G]

Are you selling it as a Falcon or a Nova? :look:









:sofa:

[Tommy Gun]

Speaking of Falcon, we watched Men In Black 3 last night :wtg:

Had some Falcons in it. :grin:


Gotta watch the bloopers at the end too. :giggle:


.

[Carnut]

Are you selling it as a Falcon or a Nova? :look:

I'll advertise it as a Novafalcon.









:sofa:


I'll advertise it as a Novafalcon.

[68fastback]

Sucks, Bruce ...oh, well, nothing you can do about it now. Hope they ge ttheir act together and finish it ...and hope it sells quickly for you.

[Carnut]

Finished up the reseal of the C-6 Tranny on the Falcon today.

Replaced the shift lever seals which involved taking off the pan, filter and valve body. The shafts then are removed. You are supposed to remove a C clip holding the parking pawl rod onto the internal lever but that was impossible. Not SOP, but I removed the parking pawl rod after taking the internal lever off the shaft. There is a metal clad seal similar to most any other seal that replaces from the outside of the case once you remove the levers. Additionally there is a O ring seal for the kick down lever which is shaft inside the larger selector shaft. Getting the pawl rod back in was a bit tricky getting it in the right spot while fighting the detent spring against the internal selector lever.

I reinstalled the valve body taking care to engage the levers for the shift selector and the kickdown. New fiter and pan gasket and it was done inside.

A word of caution on the valve body. There are 8 larger machine screws that hold the body to the case. Remove only those and pull the body from the case. Removal of the smaller screws and you can seperate the valve body pieces and end up with springs and balls all over the ground and you'll go through heck putting that back together.

I also adjusted the intermediate band, replacing the lock nut. The locknut is on the outside of the case and is a composite steel and rubber piece that seals the adjusting screw so it doesn't leak. They get hard and come apart with time. This nut should be replaced whenever adjusting the band for this reason.

Finally, I replaced the front pump and rear extension housing seal. The front pump seal is hard to get to, so I used a bodyman's slide hammer that has a sheet metal screw tip. I drilled a small hole in the steel ring, taking care to not scar the pump case where the seal goes in. I screwed in the tip and it came right out. I installed the front seal with the aid of a section of 2-1/2 inch exhaust pipe as a seating tool. Because it slides over the the torque converter shaft it makes the install real easy. I replace the rear seal in a similar manner.

Tranny all done now, waiting on engine. I will use a new O ring seal on the filler tube when that gets installed with the engine.

[Joe G]

Great job 'Nut!!

























Oh and... :needpics:

[68fastback]

:wtg: nice work, Nut!!

[Carnut]

After months of waiting, I finally get the Falcon blower motor back from the shop.

Kind of have my back against the wall on a deadline, so probably no pics of the install.

I'm still waiting on custom pushrods but I can't hold up the install. It has taken so long because the builder gave me some nice concessions and some other issues.

Time to get dirty.

[68fastback]

:wtg:

[Joe G]

:pics:



:waiting:

[Orf]

:pics:



:waiting:

11146

:sofa:

[68fastback]

:lol: ...I think they used the wrong primer on that 'falcon's' pass-side door :shades:

[Carnut]

Got most of the engine "dressed" today.

Kind of an endless, where did that go (I took it apart in December and CRS), where are the bolts for this, how come this doesn't fit, that looks like crap and I need to polish it and so forth.

I'm going to a put a list together and go to the parts store so I don't forget anything, then I'll forget the list and have to go back.

Maybe I will stuff it tomorrow, I don't have the energy I used to have.

[68fastback]

Old age sure is a beatch

:sofa:













...don't ask how I know :haha:










...did you ask? I don't remember :spitcopy:








Seriously, tho ...can't wait to see pics when you get a chance, Bruce! :wtg:

[Carnut]

I need someone to remind me later.

[68fastback]

...remind you what?











:haha:

[Carnut]

Ummmmmmmmm.................................nevermi nd.

[68fastback]

:lol:

[Carnut]

I managed to install the engine and transmission into the Falcon today.

I had to install them together, making one heavy load. Cast iron Cleveland with iron heads and a cast iron C-6. I was pretty close to maxing out my hoist in the full extended position. Good thing the blower wasn't on it too.

Luckily, the full length headers went in without too much grief, from the top.

I also managed to pull my low back as well as strain my left elbow. The good news is my rotator cuft is still good. :crutch:

[68fastback]

Awesome! ...probably looks great! :lol:

...ouch! ...hope you're not hurtin' too bad, 'Nuts.

[Carnut]

Awesome! ...probably looks great! :lol:

...ouch! ...hope you're not hurtin' too bad, 'Nuts.

Ibuphrophen (sp) is my friend. :yes:

[Carnut]

Still waiting on the stupid pushrods.

I found out that Comp had to make them, I am using a restricted hole to keep the valve covers from filling with oil. You would think they would stock them but no, I have a Cleveland. Other parts came in yesterday evening. Try and get a set of Cleveland 4bbl exhaust gaskets in town, sheesh.

Did get most of the little stuff in today, torque converter bolts, rear seal, driveshaft, exhaust header gaskets, various plugs on the engine, t-stat and housing, belts, transmission mount, and few other things.

Time for my nappy.

[68fastback]

...you'd think the Cleveland engine would still be relatively popular ...or is it that there's so many aftermarket versions that parts for the actual stock block are hard to come by?

[Carnut]

I guess it's not popular enough to stock, They figure you will wait for a special order.

[68fastback]

<sigh> Come-on UPS! Giddyup! ;-)

(I know what you mean -- I'm still waiting for a couple tractor parts from last week -- should arrive next tuesday -- has rained an hour or so every evening for the past several days and the grass is growing faster ...parts should arrive just in time)

[Joe G]

(I know what you mean -- I'm still waiting for a couple tractor parts from last week -- should arrive next tuesday -- has rained an hour or so every evening for the past several days and the grass is growing faster ...parts should arrive just in time)

http://www.tallcloverfarm.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/lawnmower-tall-grass.jpg



Looks like it'll be a bit late to me. :wow2:

[Carnut]

You need a couple of goats.

[68fastback]

:rofl3:

[Carnut]

With all my stuff going on, I haven't had time or motivation to finish the Falcon.

I had an oil leak on start up that was coming from the back of the motor. It was impossible to get back there to see anything because there is a bg 671 blower with dual quads that sits a few inches from the firewall. Yesterday, my son came over and motivated me so we pulled the blower off it.

The rear of the intake manifold looked like it was sealed but there was a recess in the lip of the manifold remaining. So I cleaned the area well and filled the remaining area making sure it was pressed all the way in using my finger. No other way to do it without pulling the manifold. I ended up using a digital inspection camera, flashlight and mirrors to check every inch. I doubted my leak was coming from this area but I really ddn"t want to have to pull the blower again.

I checked the valve cover gaskets and they were dry as a bone.

Lastly, the fitting for the oil pressure guage (at the back of the motor and on top of the block) was the only thing left. It was one of the standard copper tubing compression style ones typical of many guage kits. Since it looked pretty beat up, I decided to just replace it, line and fittings all the way back to the guage. I used on the steel braided teflon hose kits from Autometer. I also replaced the boost guage line because the old was hard and brittle (and broken).

The fittings are in such a place that a wrench is really hard to use. Fortunately, I have a set of "crow foot" sockets to ensure the connections were tight. Everyone needs a set of those in their toolbox.

Once I can get a helper over here, I will pressure test the line before bolting the blower down and reinstalling the guage panel inside the car. I'm just going to crank the engine without spark until the pressure gauge reads pressure. It's a PITA little project and I don't want to have to deal with it again. I even skipped the teflon tape on the fitting threads and went to the high dollar Permatex thread sealant for high temperature fuids. (Yes, I have had tape fail in the past).

[68fastback]

Hope that does the trick, Bruce!

[Carnut]

Hope that does the trick, Bruce!

Thanks Dan, although I think my hope is a little stronger than yours. :biggrin:

[68fastback]

lol -- yeah, I'm sure ;-) You're still planning to sell it, right?

[Carnut]

lol -- yeah, I'm sure ;-) You're still planning to sell it, right?

Yeah when it cools down a bit. My kid thinks we need to put a nice sound system to help it's value. Maybe.

Also thinking I need to drop the boost so I can run pump gas. Right now, it's 13 psi., should be 5-6 with this motor.

[Joe G]

Fortunately, I have a set of "crow foot" sockets to ensure the connections were tight. Everyone needs a set of those in their toolbox.


:pics:

Not sure what those are?

[68fastback]

Yeah when it cools down a bit. My kid thinks we need to put a nice sound system to help it's value. Maybe.

Also thinking I need to drop the boost so I can run pump gas. Right now, it's 13 psi., should be 5-6 with this motor.

Probably a good idea -- should have broader appeal as a streeter than a track car ...esp since it's easy enough to swap pulleys. Does it have a tank for race gas in the trunk so it can be either/or more easily?

Good sound would also help sell a streeter (for me, anyway) but might be pricier than what it would add to the sale and some folks have strong preferences when it comes to sound equipment. What about making it sound-friendly (if that makes sense) ...maybe just a blank double-DIN in-dash panel ...or what about a decent 5.1 head unit but with just 4 modest speakers (two of them 2-ways for the .1 and use the dash-top speaker grille for the center channel) and if someone wants to expand on that with a big sub and better speakers they can build off what's there ...if it has the right connections built in, etc ...something like that? You can make some decent-quality sound for $400-500 and even if it only adds that much (or alittle less) to the price it might be worth it.

You hate to spend money on something just to sell it. Similar situation: I'm refurbing a vintage amp (actually second one I've done, tho sthis one is much more involved) and, for this one, I'm rebuilding a separate housing for the amp chassis (that I used in the '60s for a few years) so the amp chassis can then be installed in either it's native cabinet or used with a much bigger one. But by doing this (including a professional electrical refurb) it's making the whole package way more sellable (since many musicians are now extracting the head like I did in the 60s) and then by stripping and refurbing the cabs and hardware to like new (with all vintage accurate pieces) it will cost me $400-500 by the time I'm done but the market value goes from about 1,000/1,200 to 2,200-2,500 ...and I still can enjoy using it for some years in the meantime. These vintage amps will only go up in value ...not all that unlike a '64 Falcon -- hopefully :banana: ;-)

[68fastback]

:pics:

Not sure what those are?

Goes on a ratchet extension for access from the side:

http://stangsunited.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11700&d=1376889015

[Joe G]

Ok. I've seen those before but didn't know what they were for.

:tiphat:

[Carnut]

Probably a good idea -- should have broader appeal as a streeter than a track car ...esp since it's easy enough to swap pulleys. Does it have a tank for race gas in the trunk so it can be either/or more easily?

Good sound would also help sell a streeter (for me, anyway) but might be pricier than what it would add to the sale and some folks have strong preferences when it comes to sound equipment. What about making it sound-friendly (if that makes sense) ...maybe just a blank double-DIN in-dash panel ...or what about a decent 5.1 head unit but with just 4 modest speakers (two of them 2-ways for the .1 and use the dash-top speaker grille for the center channel) and if someone wants to expand on that with a big sub and better speakers they can build off what's there ...if it has the right connections built in, etc ...something like that? You can make some decent-quality sound for $400-500 and even if it only adds that much (or alittle less) to the price it might be worth it.

You hate to spend money on something just to sell it. Similar situation: I'm refurbing a vintage amp (actually second one I've done, tho sthis one is much more involved) and, for this one, I'm rebuilding a separate housing for the amp chassis (that I used in the '60s for a few years) so the amp chassis can then be installed in either it's native cabinet or used with a much bigger one. But by doing this (including a professional electrical refurb) it's making the whole package way more sellable (since many musicians are now extracting the head like I did in the 60s) and then by stripping and refurbing the cabs and hardware to like new (with all vintage accurate pieces) it will cost me $400-500 by the time I'm done but the market value goes from about 1,000/1,200 to 2,200-2,500 ...and I still can enjoy using it for some years in the meantime. These vintage amps will only go up in value ...not all that unlike a '64 Falcon -- hopefully :banana: ;-)

The kid has connections, maybe a display model for cheap. People don't do CD's anymore so I am told. It's a bluetooth connection for their music on their I phones or an MP-3 player. Anyway that is what he is talking about and top quality speakers. I guess I need to defer to the younger generation on this one.

[Carnut]

Ok. I've seen those before but didn't know what they were for.

:tiphat:

I don't use them very often, but they can be a lifesaver sometimes. I should have a set that is a flare nut style for those hard to get at fittings too (more enclosed and stronger) but they are really hard to find at a sensible price.

[Joe G]

:birdy:



https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1174751_10151801968203678_280368689_n.jpg

[Carnut]

Mine is a 2 door. :boink:

[Joe G]

Mine is a 2 door. :boink:
:oops:




I thought yours was a Nova? :look:

[Carnut]

And since it's white it is faster than black. :tease2:

[68fastback]

The kid has connections, maybe a display model for cheap. People don't do CD's anymore so I am told. It's a bluetooth connection for their music on their I phones or an MP-3 player. Anyway that is what he is talking about and top quality speakers. I guess I need to defer to the younger generation on this one.

Sounds like a plan ...sometimes the younger generation knows a couple things :giggle:

[Joe G]

Sounds like a plan ...sometimes the younger generation knows a couple things :giggle:

:uwelcome:

[Joe G]

And since it's white it is faster than black. :tease2:
:hey2:

[Carnut]

:uwelcome:

I take it you're thanking the younger generation. About time.

[Carnut]

Spent about 4 hours cleaning the Falcon today and took it for it's first test ride.

Those 16.5 inch wide Mickey Thompsons don't hook up worth a crap. Spun them for about 50 feet with a medium throttle and starting out in 2nd gear. Lifted cause I'm a wussy.

:grin:

[Joe G]

Spent about 4 hours cleaning the Falcon today and took it for it's first test ride.

Those 16.5 inch wide Mickey Thompsons don't hook up worth a crap. Spun them for about 50 feet with a medium throttle and starting out in 2nd gear. Lifted cause I'm a wussy.

:grin:

:needpics:

[Carnut]

Took the Falcon out last night to the car cruise in. Car was running great, no issues until.....................

I started it later in the evening upon request. The back carb puked fuel out it. Tapping on the float didn't help and eventually took the needle and seat out and blew them out. Replaced and reset the floats. I let the engine dry out and it started and seemed to be running fine. Had previously replace all the fuel lines etc., and figure there must have been a piece of crap in the lines.

Later, I left to go home (some 10 miles) but no sooner than I got out onto the street, it started crapping out. A friendly cop (really) helped me push it out of the traffic lane and into a drive. He noticed how old I was and was concerned about my hard breathing from all that pushing, LOL. I was fine but we pushed the car a few hundred feet, sheesh. Anyway, good on him.

The carbs were fine, I had fuel pressure and no fuel puking. It couldn't have been the issue. It wouldn't start and back fired a few times. I calledp a friend who has AAA. They showed up and he tried starting it. The **** thing started right up and ran fine. The driver said he wouldn't tow it because it was a custom car. Well, crappo.

Not knowing if the car would continue to run, I took a chance and made it home without a wimper.

Went over a number of things this morning, no problems found including grounds or other loose wires. No carburetor issues either. Because the carbs levels were fine and I had fuel pressure when it quit, I'm thinking intermittant electrical. Another really strange thing happened that has me baffled is my fuel pump relay seemed to hang in the on position for a few seconds after the key turned off, same thing with the in line switch. I could see one both not both.

So, I am kind of scratching my head this am, is it one problem or a couple of unrelated problems. I am suspecting the Mallory Unilite module in the distibutor as its intermittant. But the fuel pump relay hanging problem has got me stumped, I don't know if they are related issues or seperate.

Making my head hurt, because everything checks out this morning.

[Carnut]

I solved one thing, the run on of the fuel pump after I turn the key off. I turns out the fuel pump relay control circuit is power by the fan power circuit. When I turn the key off, the fan is still spinning and is acting as a generator, continuing to power the pump relay control circuit. One the fan stops spinning, the relay control circuit is de-energized and the fuel pump stops. I tested the theory with a toggle switch in the pump relay control circuit. So this malady has nothing to do with the car crapping out.

The real issue I think is the Unilite trigger module inside the distributor.

[68fastback]

I solved one thing, the run on of the fuel pump after I turn the key off. I turns out the fuel pump relay control circuit is power by the fan power circuit. When I turn the key off, the fan is still spinning and is acting as a generator, continuing to power the pump relay control circuit. One the fan stops spinning, the relay control circuit is de-energized and the fuel pump stops. I tested the theory with a toggle switch in the pump relay control circuit. So this malady has nothing to do with the car crapping out.

The real issue I think is the Unilite trigger module inside the distributor.

Nice sleuthing!!

Yeah, the intermittant problem does sound electrical. Is the MSD distributor housing itself new or original mod-build? Asking because it sounds like a perforated stator/star-wheel wire ...you know that super-fine braided copper wire that flexes with timing advance (if this is the type setup you have). What happened to me on two old vehicles (a '77 and a '78) is that engine vapors make the insulation on that little wire brittle over many years and it develops cracks that cause the fine brided wire inside to develop a crease and an intermittant condition, even tho the wire still looks intact. Drove me nuts finding the problem since it would just turn off out of the blue and then be fine the next day :doh: I eventually figured it out and whn the other truck developed the exact same sympton about a year later (both faild in their 14th year) I was on it like white on rice -lol. If it's a newer unit or a different design maybe it's just aloose stator wire (one end is usually fused into the stator sensor and the other end comes out the side of the distributor to trigger the ignition module, etc. Could be something else entirely, of course -lol. Hope you find it, Bruce!

[Carnut]

Nice sleuthing!!

Yeah, the intermittant problem does sound electrical. Is the MSD distributor housing itself new or original mod-build? Asking because it sounds like a perforated stator/star-wheel wire ...you know that super-fine braided copper wire that flexes with timing advance (if this is the type setup you have). What happened to me on two old vehicles (a '77 and a '78) is that engine vapors make the insulation on that little wire brittle over many years and it develops cracks that cause the fine brided wire inside to develop a crease and an intermittant condition, even tho the wire still looks intact. Drove me nuts finding the problem since it would just turn off out of the blue and then be fine the next day :doh: I eventually figured it out and whn the other truck developed the exact same sympton about a year later (both faild in their 14th year) I was on it like white on rice -lol. If it's a newer unit or a different design maybe it's just aloose stator wire (one end is usually fused into the stator sensor and the other end comes out the side of the distributor to trigger the ignition module, etc. Could be something else entirely, of course -lol. Hope you find it, Bruce!

It is a Mallory Unilite pickup which is different than the inductive pickup such as MSD. But I think you may be on to something with the effects of age and the vapors that eventually find their way into the distibutor, perhaps a breakdown of the internals of the pickup itself or the small wire leads inside. The distibutor is at least 15 years old and that includes the internals.

I"ll be doing some voltage and impedance testing tomorrow and wiggling those leads. I'm curious to what I find.

[Carnut]

Short test procedure for a Mallory Uni Lite module is to take of cap and rotor, measure voltage at the coil which should be 12 volts or so. Use a credit card or facsimile and interupt the light beam. Voltage should drop to 1-2 volts, anything over will yield a weak spark.

Testing began with 12 volts, no voltage drop when interupting the beam. Leaving the ignition on, I kept interupting the beam and eventually I got 1.2 volts. Second test began like the first except the voltage dropped to about 4 volts and was never able to get down to 1.2 like the first test. Let it cool for an hour or so and made a third test. This time I was able to get to about 3 volts.

I think the test data matches the intermittant problems of crapping out (above 2 volts weak spark) and not running. Because it was able to get to 1-2 volts on one test, it explains why it started and ran fine for a while.

The module is confirmed defective and a new one is on the way from Summit.

[Joe G]

Nice job Carnut. :wtg:

[Carnut]

:tiphat:

I hate throwing parts at a problem then find out later I didn't need to replace something.

[Carnut]

Nothing is ever easy, especially with intermittant problems. :rant:

While the distributor module didn't test out, it must have been taken out by another problem. After I replaced the module and fired it up, it still ran like crap, it would start but not run. :angry:The ignition runs through a ballust resistor on run, but on full voltage from the starter solenoid on start (no resistor). More testing with a suspicion on the actual wiring upstream of the module and coil. :banghead:

I found I was still getting 4 volts at the coil and 7 volts at the module.:nonono: Mallory says at under 4 volts the engine probably won't run. This appeared to be an intermittant fault, although now the low voltage was steady state. Perhaps the module was giving me the intermittant fault, I don't know. :confused:

I finally had to crawl over the roll cage and under the dash with flashlight and multimeter. Thats hard to do with an old fat guy because you have to squeeze between the seat and the steering wheel. :yes:Thank God, I had a smaller aftermarket wheel. Back to the story.:pray: I measured the voltage from the hotside of the ignition switch at 12.4 volts and to the upstream side of the ballust resistor. NFG at 7 volts. Downstream on the resistor was 4 volts which should be about 9 volts. Then on the run side of the ignition at 11 volts. :no:

So, I have a voltage drop of over 5 volts to the upstream side of the resistor with roughly 1.4 volts lost just through the ignition switch. :faint:So I replaced the ignition switch and the feed wire to the resistor. :gulp:


Okay, now about 9 volts at the coil and over 12 at the module. Fired it up, ran well. :ohyes:


Going to run it through several hot cold cycles, hoping the intermittant issue won't come back. The wiring harness is older than Dan, so who knows?

[68fastback]

:wtg:

...ummm. I mean :hey2: lol


....that sounds liek the fix!

[Carnut]

I guess car parts can go bad just sitting there.

I had my electrical issues resolved, the car was running fine. Then it happened, the carb I had trouble with started puking again. I decided to pull it apart and see what was going on. The secondary bowl float was full of gas (they're not supposed to be and they don't float well). These were the old brown Duracron floats ( I thought I posted this before but I couldn't find it) .

The next day I had a puking problem with the other carb, that float had gas in it. Apparently the gas and age ate up the floats so I replaced them all.

I installed a oil separator on the PCV system, seems to be working (seperate tech thread on that).

I replaced the brake light switch with a low pressure version, works just like I wanted it to (also a seperate tech thread on low pressure switches). The car has silicone brake fluid in it so hopefully none of the seals will go out.

Today, I replaced the upper radiator hose with one that fit better, put 44 psi in the skinny front tires and took a few pounds out the big big rear tires. I think the car is safe to take it to tonight's cruise-in. I have a better tow truck phone number this time, hope I don't need it because some other part went bad sitting there over the years.

[68fastback]

...and thanks for sharing all this as you were doing it, Bruce!! All your threads have been interesting and insightfull :wtg:

...oh, and some rep points :frolic: ;-)

[Darn ...says I have to spread some reputation around ...:doh2:]

[Carnut]

Got home from the cruise-in. The car ran great.

Since everything seemed to be running okay, I decided to get into it a little. The car has a lot of power, the suspension is loosey goosey (as drag cars of the day were to get weight transfer) so I was conservative. I got used tp the up in smoke point on throttle first. Then the quick 1-2 shift (manual valve body in a built C-6 and big converter).

Once I was somewhat comfortable I let it rip. This car will make anyone scream like a girl in the passenger set. I was too pumped to scream.

Anyway, I rolled into the dual quads, the tires squirmed and the minute they broke too hard, I pushed second and gave it more throttle and the tires rotated a little and I popped third and mashed it hard. Woohoo, I had to lift, the tires spin in third too. Crabs just a bit with the road tilt.

I had enough fun on street, in the dark with poor headlights. On a nice clean smooth strip, I'm sure the car would be more stable. Rough city streets and not being able to see well in the dark tightened my a$$ up pretty good. God, what fun.

[Joe G]

That sounds awesome Bruce.


Video? :waiting:

[Carnut]

That sounds awesome Bruce.


Video? :waiting:


I found myself too busy for videotoprogophy. Besides my shorts were getting wet.

[Joe G]

I found myself too busy for videotoprogophy. Besides my shorts were getting wet.

:rofl3:


Mrs Carnut not riding shotgun?

[Carnut]

:rofl3:


Mrs Carnut not riding shotgun?

Oh Hell no! She's smarter than most people. And those that have, won't again.

[68fastback]

:banana: Sounds like a hoot! :grin:

[Carnut]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peoriaazcarcruise/10504841806/

[Joe G]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peoriaazcarcruise/10504841806/

Nice Nova! :wtg:

[68fastback]

lol


Sweet! ...the '64 has such nice lines! ...looks fast sitting still ;-)

[Carnut]

Thanks guys, you too Joe.

[Joe G]

Thanks guys, you too Joe.

:uwelcome:

[Carnut]

I am still fixing a few last things on the Falcon.

The speakers and radio are shot and my kid got me a set of Prime 6x9 triaxial speakers to replace the ones in the rear package tray.

What a beotch, it took me four days.

The rear package tray, bulkhead and floor are all one piece welded steel so there was no taking out the rear seat. I also don't have 12 foot long arms so I had to work it from the trunk. I have very large wheel tubs, roll cage and a fuel cell which really inhibited access. There was very little room between the tubs and the speakers, the hardware holding the old speakers on was not visible.

I had to stand at the trunk opening and stretch my arms out to reach the hardware with my finger tips. It was like a yoga excercise and I could not stay in that position long as my fingers, neck, back and legs cramped up.

Besides my whining I found a couple tricks that might be useful to others.

I used a 1/4 inch drive "Thumb Wheel" (you can get them at Harbor Freight) that you put your socket on. There is no ratchet, just a heavily knurled knob. I was able to balance it in my fingers, feel the hardware and barely slide the socket on but it worked. I kept dropping it and after I got tired of fishing it out with a magnet, I made a little cardboard tray to slide under the speaker to make retrivial easier.

Eventually I got the old speakers out, fought the new ones back on the old studs (all by finger tip feel) and started put the nuts and washers back on. Since it was impossible to hold the washer on then thread the nuts on seperately, I put a drop of superglue on the nut to hold the washer.

Working in supertight spaces where you can't see and have to be a contortionist, remember the "thumb wheel" and superglue.

My back should heal in a week.

[68fastback]

:crutch:

...at least it's done! :wtg:

[Joe G]

Shoulda made your kid do it. :wtg:

[Carnut]

Shoulda made your kid do it. :wtg:

He just laughed at me. :kickrock:

[Joe G]

He just laughed at me. :kickrock:

Snot-nosed whipper snapper! http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h368/blueskool9/DSP%20GIFs/grumpyoldman_zps5ae79de4.gif

[68fastback]

Shoulda made your kid do it. :wtg:

:lol: ...that was the first thing that went through my mind too! :webers:

[Joe G]

:lol: ...that was the first thing that went through my mind too! :webers:

11916

[68fastback]

...and that's what kids are for :biggrin:

[Joe G]

Maybe the kid won't work on Chebby Nova's? :look:

[68fastback]

:giggle:

[Carnut]

Maybe the kid won't work on Chebby Nova's? :look:

He don't work on minivans either. :boink:

[Joe G]

:spitcopy:

[Carnut]

:tease2:

[Carnut]

120071200812009Took some new marketing pictures of the Falcon.

[Carnut]

Some more1201012011120121201312011

[Carnut]

last two1201612017

[Boston Mike]

120071200812009Took some new marketing pictures of the Falcon.

marketing?

[Carnut]

Yeah, I'm putting it on the market.

[Tommy Gun]

Wow that looks awesome!

[Carnut]

:uwelcome: