How to plant??

[eclipseb2k2]

Let me start by saying;

:new2: me

As I start to build my power, getting the power to plant and the wheels not to hop is becomming an issue. I have a 2008 GT500 I haven't had it dynoed or custom tuned but I am expecting somewhere over 650 RWHP. I anticipate having some traction problems.

Here is my question: What is the best way get that power to go forward instead of side to side or up and down?

My rear suspension is all stock and I was thinking about putting new upper and lower control arms, an axel brace, and some better tires. would this be enough? over kill? any advice would be awesome! thank in advance!

[Birdman]

Let me start by saying;

:new2: me

As I start to build my power, getting the power to plant and the wheels not to hop is becomming an issue. I have a 2008 GT500 I haven't had it dynoed or custom tuned but I am expecting somewhere over 650 RWHP. I anticipate having some traction problems.

Here is my question: What is the best way get that power to go forward instead of side to side or up and down?

My rear suspension is all stock and I was thinking about putting new upper and lower control arms, an axel brace, and some better tires. would this be enough? over kill? any advice would be awesome! thank in advance!

That would be a good start , not overkill at all. :tiphat2:

[Joe G]

Seems like the standard upgrade is:
- LCA
- UCA
- lowering springs (as long as you can handle the car lower)
- shocks/struts
- panhard bar/watts link


Beyond that, $ increases and so does the complexity of the install (ie: coil overs etc).

[eclipseb2k2]

Okay! so I was thinking about going with Metco UCR/LCR, Eibach sportline springs and the steeda watts linkage. Any red falgs on any of that? I read about each and didn't see anything saying they were crap.

[HSURB]

I went with the machined aluminum lower control arms. It's a nice appearance mod, as well as eliminated wheel hop. I did the upper control arm and panhard as well.

HSURB®

[Gr8snkbite]

J&M upper and lower are better then Metco. Panhard or get the Fays2...

[Quagmire]

I have the FRPP Handling Pack (lowering spring, swaybars, adj. shocks, etc...), the Fays2 watts link, J&M tubular street lower control arms and BMR relocation brackets.

After lowering the car the wheel hop was gone. After the watts link and LCAs were installed, the rear end feels solid as a rock. Very well planted at speed and when cornering.

Nothing keeps the tires from spinning when launching in 1st gear except driver skill and technique. Too much torque.

[Gr8snkbite]

copy...didnt know you did all that...i also have the FRPP, J&M stuff, adn Fays2...works well for my needs..

[MrFarmDog]

Just don't use BMR UCA. Rattles like a wagon.

[Alloy Dave]

copy...didnt know you did all that...i also have the FRPP, J&M stuff, adn Fays2...works well for my needs..
quag is not the OP MC, so your advice is still valid.

I would add to Joe G's post that a set of drag radials will help traction at the expense of tire life. People have varying opinions on what's best between Nitto, KDW, and Toyo as it depends on many factors (vert/coupe, lowered? wider wheels? 20" wheels?, etc.).

[zeefree]

Let me start by saying;

:new2: me

As I start to build my power, getting the power to plant and the wheels not to hop is becomming an issue. I have a 2008 GT500 I haven't had it dynoed or custom tuned but I am expecting somewhere over 650 RWHP. I anticipate having some traction problems.

Here is my question: What is the best way get that power to go forward instead of side to side or up and down?

My rear suspension is all stock and I was thinking about putting new upper and lower control arms, an axel brace, and some better tires. would this be enough? over kill? any advice would be awesome! thank in advance!

I have Steeda LCA W/spherical helms and they pretty much eliminated my wheel hop. I also went with the Roush UCA. I'm very impressed with them both.

I think I paid around $340 for the Steeda LCA and $200 for the Roush UCA.

I'll post some pictures of the installation in a couple of days.

[eclipseb2k2]

I went with the pro-kit springs from Eibach, Metco UCA/LCA, and a Fays2 Watts link. Should have it all installed today or tomorrow, can't wait.

Also I can't say enough about the costumer service at Fays. I am really glad I went with them for a watts linkage.

[Boston Mike]

Just don't use BMR UCA. Rattles like a wagon.

Funny, mine hasn't been rattling at all, maybe keeping the stock bracket was the difference. Now, my panhard, that's a different story. Ugh. Time to dump it and get a watts link.

[Alloy Dave]

Funny, mine hasn't been rattling at all, maybe keeping the stock bracket was the difference. Now, my panhard, that's a different story. Ugh. Time to dump it and get a watts link.
+1 My BMR UCA doesn't rattle at all.

[eclipseb2k2]

HaHa..... okay. I show up at the track last night and got embarrassed. I just could not keep the back end planted, it was it was spinning through the first 3 gears and wanted to get all sideways on me. I think I just need to practice launching and keeping it in that sweet spot, but it did hook up a lot better than it did before...... now it is just the nut loose behind the steering wheel I need to work on :tongue:

[Boston Mike]

HaHa..... okay. I show up at the track last night and got embarrassed. I just could not keep the back end planted, it was it was spinning through the first 3 gears and wanted to get all sideways on me. I think I just need to practice launching and keeping it in that sweet spot, but it did hook up a lot better than it did before...... now it is just the nut loose behind the steering wheel I need to work on :tongue:
Hows the new rear suspension feel though? I would guess much tighter than before.

[MrFarmDog]

+1 My BMR UCA doesn't rattle at all.

Dave did you keep the stock UCA mounting bracket?

[Shlbylvr]

Good luck with this.. It takes practice and patience.. You'll get it..

[Alloy Dave]

Dave did you keep the stock UCA mounting bracket?

Yes.

[eclipseb2k2]

Hows the new rear suspension feel though? I would guess much tighter than before.

Yes it is much much tighter. I noticed far less wheel hop. Now I just need to work on not spinning the tires so much........ I am guessing that is more of a driver thing than a parts thing.

[onecrazydog]

Yes it is much much tighter. I noticed far less wheel hop. Now I just need to work on not spinning the tires so much........ I am guessing that is more of a driver thing than a parts thing.

Do you have drag radials yet? If not, they will really help with the hook up...

[eclipseb2k2]

I do not have drag radials yet but they are in the works. I think right now I need to work on driver skill............

[Boston Mike]

Had my Fays2 installed yesterday afternoon..........................Thankfully, it cleared my clunking issue that I was starting to make me think i needed to replace my right rear shock and mount. My spohn was bastardized by the shop that installed it (which I do not use any longer) and apparantly their homemade spacer just wasn't cutting it and it kept loosening up so it could articulate more and more. Fays2 on..........clunk gone. I'd take pics, but not much to see when it's on the ground. But I do have this pic for y'all of another mod that got started yesterday too.

Sorry that it's a bit dark, took it when I got home from a business dinner last nite.

Autometer Cobalt boost, oil pressure and pyrometer gauges (all full electric) in a custom gauge pod made from a stock one and covered in alcantara. Pretty slick installed. Just have to have the wiring finished (that's why it's showing oil pressure at 100 psi!!!!). That should be done on Tuesday. I wonder if I'll have my battery terminals cleaned by then. :rofl: BTW Joe, I still have a cobal mechanical boost and a cobalt voltmeter lying around somewhere......:grin:


http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk298/Boston_M/gaugesinstalled.jpg

[Joe G]

BTW Joe, I still have a cobal mechanical boost and a cobalt voltmeter lying around somewhere......:grin:


Thanks Monkey. :monkey:


Let me figure out my plans...