Engine Wiring Harness

[Tommy Gun]

I need an engine wiring harness pronto for a 2002 Mustang GT.

Any idea's?

:waiting2:

[Tommy Gun]

Yes I'm home, yes it made it in the driveway. :rofl3:

[Joe G]

Uh oh. This should be good... :popcorn:

[Joe G]

New or used?

[Tommy Gun]

Either

[Tommy Gun]

I've had no luck finding anything so far. :nonono:

.

[Joe G]

Have a part #?

[The Bone]

Why?

[Tommy Gun]

Have a part #?

Can't find a specific part number.

Going to try the dealer and a junkyard today.

[Tommy Gun]

Why?

I'll explain better once I get a chance to load pics.

[Tommy Gun]

Have a part #?

Only part of the number I can find so far is 9d930.

It is the part that has fuel inj and coil wires on it.

Called a "engine control sensor wire"


Also need a dpfe-15 number 9j460 which is a common part I know I can get.

[Tommy Gun]

Wiring harness no longer available, not available nationally. :nonono:

I've started to fix it myself. :banghead:

[Joe G]

Wiring harness no longer available, not available nationally. :nonono:

I've started to fix it myself. :banghead:Are the plugs ok? If so, can you just cut out the burnt wire and splice in replacement wire?

[Tommy Gun]

The culprit....


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00304.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00305.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00306.jpg


This is a EGR gas pressure sensor. It has direct exhaust pressure to it and as it goes bad apparently direct exhaust heat as well.

It sit on the back top center of the motor by the EGR tube.

[Tommy Gun]

The damage...


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00299.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00303.jpg



Though the wires are exposed and touching, so far the only thing it did was make the starter engage while trying to get the car into the driveway....and that sounds horrible! :surprised:

[CH53Driver]

:wow2:

[Tommy Gun]

The fix ....


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00307.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00308.jpg


Ive got the harness out as much as possible to work on it.

First although I hate the stuff, I'm using Liquid Tape first. http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-4-Ounce-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K

Then I'm going to try and cover as much individually as I can w/ electrical tape, then going to wrap w/ header fiberglass tape so it doesn't happen again.

[Tommy Gun]

Are the plugs ok? If so, can you just cut out the burnt wire and splice in replacement wire?


There are about 30 wires w/ exposed wire.

I didn't want to splice that many things and have a problem I couldn't find in the future.

[Tommy Gun]

All the plugs and connectors are fine.

This wire is all the engine sensors, all the injector wires and all the coil pack wires.....and other stuff.

[Tommy Gun]

I knew heat was coming from somewhere early in the day, but couldn't find it?

I put this heat shield over the main wiring harness part and saved it, but it burn toward the side also and melted the other part of the harness. :nonono:


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00302.jpg


.

[Joe G]

Liquid tape? :yikes:

[onecrazydog]

That sucks... Does look fixable but what a pita...

[Tommy Gun]

Liquid tape? :yikes:


It's a start :nonono:

[Joe G]

It's a start :nonono:How will it handle the heat of the area?

[Tommy Gun]

How will it handle the heat of the area?


I gues I'll find out.


I can find any info on how much heat it supposedly is good too?

So as a added precaution, I'm wrapping it w/ regular electrical tape (individual wires) and then some heat shield tape.

[CH53Driver]

Time to upgrade to a Boss LS. :shades:

[Tommy Gun]

Time to upgrade to a Boss LS. :shades:


It would be nice, but trying to pay everything off.

[The Bone]

You may be better off splicing all those wires so you can make them longer and move them away from the heat. I know its a lot of work but that looks like a mess. but after you are McGyver

[Tommy Gun]

You may be better off splicing all those wires so you can make them longer and move them away from the heat. I know its a lot of work but that looks like a mess. but after you are McGyver


I did think about that.

If I knew how to solder properly I would have tried that.

I don't do soldering very well, just never got the process?

Splicing by crimping was out of the question.

[Birdman]

Since the car is not a 'street' car why not just eliminate the EGR and it's components all together......that way no need to have hot exhaust gasses anywhere hear the harness.

[Gr8snkbite]

:idea:

[Tommy Gun]

Since the car is not a 'street' car why not just eliminate the EGR and it's components all together......that way no need to have hot exhaust gasses anywhere hear the harness.

I discussed this w my Motorcraft guy today.

I know that some sensors send info to the computer.

If these sensor aren't there, how might it affect my tune?

I would get rid of this stuff if I could because we have no emission testing here.

:waiting2:

[Joe G]

I gues I'll find out.


I can find any info on how much heat it supposedly is good too?

So as a added precaution, I'm wrapping it w/ regular electrical tape (individual wires) and then some heat shield tape.176F

http://www.cableorganizer.com/gardner-bender/liquid-electrical-tape/

Regular electrical tape isn't rated for very hot either. In fact, I hate using that stuff because as soon as it heats up it gets slick and the tape moves around and gets gooey. :yuk:


This might be better... but 400F is still not very good around the EGR. http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/85120.pdf

[Tommy Gun]

5 hours of Liquid Electrical Tape and regular electrical tape and now I get that info. :nonono:

Already at the point of wrapping w header heat tape.

[Joe G]

5 hours of Liquid Electrical Tape and regular electrical tape and now I get that info. :nonono:.I warned you yesterday. :doh2:

[Tommy Gun]

Waiting on heat tape to be delivered then hooking everything back up, flushing my brake fluid, changing my tires (which are my original track tires and now bald) then going for a " drive it like you stole it" run to test things out for the end of the month.

Then I have my other piece of crap to still get straight to drive around town....since I don't go to events. :giggle:


.

[Tommy Gun]

Got car running today, no issues, no codes. :yay:

Waiting on heat wrap for added protection to harness in the future.

[Gr8snkbite]

:wtg:

[onecrazydog]

I did think about that.

If I knew how to solder properly I would have tried that.

I don't do soldering very well, just never got the process?

Splicing by crimping was out of the question.


Put the soldering iron on the wires, let heat up, touch solder between tip and wire, if wire is hot enough it should "suck" the solder right in... It's a practice thing, I used to spend hours making patch cords for work... Need to start with a good soldering iron first though...

[The Bone]

And rosin core soldier. the small stuff with a electric soldiering gun. dont forget the shrink wrap. I bet MM could show you how

[Tommy Gun]

Too late for all that. :look:

[The Bone]

Quitter

[Tommy Gun]

Today sucked out loud.

My jack slipped under the car while just starting to jack it up and it broke off a tube on my power rack and pinion. :nonono:

No one carries that type part, so I had to make my own.

3 hours later....:nonono: hope it works well enough for the track now. :nonono:

[Tommy Gun]

I should have taken up needlepoint instead of car mechanics as a hobby. :nonono:

[HSURB]

I should have taken up needlepoint instead of car mechanics as a hobby. :nonono:

You can always get into "beading".

HSURB®

[Tommy Gun]

:nonono:

[Joe G]

Today sucked out loud.

My jack slipped under the car while just starting to jack it up and it broke off a tube on my power rack and pinion. :nonono:

No one carries that type part, so I had to make my own.

3 hours later....:nonono: hope it works well enough for the track now. :nonono:Glad you weren't under there.








Maybe it's a sign to get out the credit card and order that lift you've been talking about forever. :popcorn:

[Tommy Gun]

I would never be under any part of the car when lifting/lifted without some sort of jacks under it.

Still thinking about the lift.

Not sure how to get it to the garage from a truck and it is 4" high so have to think about how to park the car over it.

.

[Tommy Gun]

My $60 sensor burned up on my first run. :nonono:

Had to bypass it by looping a hi temp hose in its place.

Been good so far.

Awesome day at the track.

Ran Advanced group for the first time at an SVT event and did really well. :yay:

.

[onecrazydog]

Been good so far.

Awesome day at the track.

Ran Advanced group for the first time at an SVT event and did really well. :yay:

.

Cooll!!

[68fastback]

Way to go, Bill!! :wtg:

:pics: ??

[Tommy Gun]

Took some pics of cars sitting around, but can't post them w the iPad.

My GoPro video card is full. :banghead:

Gotta see if I can find another card.

[Tommy Gun]

The culprit....


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00304.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00305.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb76/FastestShelby/VIR%20May%202012/DSC00306.jpg


This is a EGR gas pressure sensor. It has direct exhaust pressure to it and as it goes bad apparently direct exhaust heat as well.

It sit on the back top center of the motor by the EGR tube.


This burnt up again on me the first run of the day.

Wish I knew why?

I looped a hose in it's place and ran the rest of the weekend.

Seriously would love to know why at the track the hoses pop off this and/or burn up the sensor?

.

[The Bone]

You may have to move it to a different location add some wire to the electrical connection away from heat

[Tommy Gun]

You may have to move it to a different location add some wire to the electrical connection away from heat

Why would there be that much more heat is what gets me.

I have the same set up as last year and this didn't happen, although I did find the hose popped off a couple times.

[68fastback]

Why would there be that much more heat is what gets me.

I have the same set up as last year and this didn't happen, although I did find the hose popped off a couple times.

You are racing so the exhaust gas gets very hot :shades: EGR recirculates some exhaust gas back into the combustible mix to reduce dilute the cylinder mix and thereby lower peak combustion temperatures. That tens to cap NOx emissions and improve mileage. But it comes at the cost of reducing power. It doesn't really affect A/Fs since exhaust gas is already 'spent' so I think it should not affect the rest of your tune. :idea: if the track turd is never street driven/inspected why not just eliminate the EGR or, if the controller will balk at that, shut it down in the tune and pick up a little power too. Not sure how you turn it off in a 2002 2V controller but on the '07-up GT500s I believe it's a simple parametric setting. Maybe others have more specific insight.

[Tommy Gun]

At the moment it is somewhat inspected so I can drive it on the street to bed brakes and take it to a shop for things I can't do.

I'm getting close to just gutting it, bedding brakes in the neighborhood, and trails ring it to a shop if I need something major done.....

[Tommy Gun]

I would like to know if some of this stuff can be handled in the tune, and what I can take off.

We don't have emissions testing here, but you cant have a dash light on.

[Joe G]

We don't have emissions testing here, but you cant have a dash light on.Just take the bulb out. :tiphat:

[Tommy Gun]

Just take the bulb out. :tiphat:

That's illegal :popcorn:





:rofl3:

[Joe G]

That's illegal :popcorn:





:rofl3:Turn up the radio? :popcorn: