Installing a Finned Aluminum Differential Cover (need advice)

[ati]

Since spring refuses to come this year and out of shear boredom I decided to remove the rear end from my 09 Shelby and paint it. I was thinking that as long as its out this would be a good time to install a Finned Aluminum Differential Cover. Ford Part Number # M4033K

This site has everything I think I would need. I still need to check and see if JoeG can get these parts for me.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LLR-F880/lubelocker-Mustang-88-Rear-Differential-Cover-Gasket

A few Questions:
Has anyone ever used a Lube Locker gasket or should I use a rtv silicone?
Is Royal Purple Gear oil any good?
Should I use Ford Racing Friction Modifier?
Anything I should know about changing covers.

[Tommy Gun]

Since spring refuses to come this year and out of shear boredom I decided to remove the rear end from my 09 Shelby and paint it. I was thinking that as long as its out this would be a good time to install a Finned Aluminum Differential Cover. Ford Part Number # M4033K

This site has everything I think I would need. I still need to check and see if JoeG can get these parts for me.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LLR-F880/lubelocker-Mustang-88-Rear-Differential-Cover-Gasket

A few Questions:
Has anyone ever used a Lube Locker gasket or should I use a rtv silicone?
Is Royal Purple Gear oil any good?
Should I use Ford Racing Friction Modifier?
Anything I should know about changing covers.


Dealerships always use Fords gray RTV for differentials, and don't over tighten, just snug up good and let the RTV dry good before adding fluid.

I use Royal Purple in both my track car and GT500 trans and diff. Never an issue whatsoever.

I think the RP diff fluid has friction modifier built in? Please check though.

When you pull your cover run a tap in the cover bolt holes to clean them out.

sometimes it's easier also to get the pan hard bar out of the way, not sure of your set up.

.

[Tommy Gun]

Also, although I would love to have some sort of diff cooler, I think it's more important to have the diff cover girdle to help w axle flex under load and help w the life of the bearings and axles w all the power we run through these things.

[Tommy Gun]

Read this on Latemodels site....


"All viscosities of Max-Gear are formulated with hypoid friction modifiers necessary for use in clutch or cone type differentials. No additional additives are necessary"


not sure why they picture it w a bottle of friction modifier though? :groan:

[ati]

Also, although I would love to have some sort of diff cooler, I think it's more important to have the diff cover girdle to help w axle flex under load and help w the life of the bearings and axles w all the power we run through these things.

So are you saying to use this one:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g21.jpg

Instead of this one:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g22.jpg

What about this LubeLocker Gasket?
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/LubeLockerGaskets.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

I have the first cover on both my Stangs for strength.

I don't have an opinion on the gasket, although I only use Fords RTV on my diffs. Street and Track.

For a street car, I don't see a real need for the finned cover, but if you play around the girdle type cover is cheap insurance.....and being aluminum it dissipates heat better than the stock steel cover.

.

[Tommy Gun]

And having the easy access fill/drain holes makes it easy to change the fluid once a year....or after a day at the track. :shades:

[Tommy Gun]

I think Joe can easily get you the Ford cover and fluids at a good price too.

[ati]

Thanks for your help.

[Tommy Gun]

Let us know what you decide and install. :wtg:

[papashelby]

Alan,

I know Joe can get whatever you want. I had contacted him earlier this year. I was going to get the Ford Racing cover, just for the reasons TG mentioned, even though my car never sees a track. Much easier to keep clean too. I believe the cover comes with a gasket/everything you need.

[ati]

Let us know what you decide and install. :wtg:

I'm thinking the Ford Racing M-4033-G2

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g21.jpg


Hope I can find someone to get me a good deal on it :innocent:

[Tommy Gun]

I'm thinking the Ford Racing M-4033-G2

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g21.jpg


Hope I can find someone to get me a good deal on it :innocent:



I could help get you a good deal, but I'm not authorized. :nonono:

.

[Alloy Dave]

I agree with all the things TG said, and I'd add that before you put the RTV on (no need to use the gasket), clean both mating surfaces with some sort of degreaser. I use brake cleaner like this. It will make sure the RTV doesn't slide out and that it sticks well.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Brake-Cleaner/p_798702.r_IF1003?gclid=CJX5jNjlorYCFdOHMgodeDMAmw

Almost any brand will do, the stuff evaporates quickly once sprayed on.

I do think the cover you've chosen with the girdle is the better one to use for bearing preload purposes.

[Tommy Gun]

:faint:

[68fastback]

Usually the process is to use RTV to 'make' the gasket, circling holes, etc, and tightening just snug, then letting the RTV fully cure and then re-tightening in an appropriate pattern. I would think that's what Ford would recommend for the diff cover too -- does anyone know if that's the preferred process per Ford?

[Tommy Gun]

It's the preferred process by TG, who cares what Ford thinks. :uwelcome:



.

[ati]

I agree with all the things TG said, and I'd add that before you put the RTV on (no need to use the gasket), clean both mating surfaces with some sort of degreaser. I use brake cleaner like this. It will make sure the RTV doesn't slide out and that it sticks well.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Brake-Cleaner/p_798702.r_IF1003?gclid=CJX5jNjlorYCFdOHMgodeDMAmw

Almost any brand will do, the stuff evaporates quickly once sprayed on.

I do think the cover you've chosen with the girdle is the better one to use for bearing preload purposes.

I never thought about brake cleaner, I've always used lacquer thinner. It evaporates very quick like brake cleaner. I'm also going to swap out the springs and sway bars as long as I have the rear end out. Just waiting on prices from Mr. JoeG

[Tommy Gun]

:waiting:

[ati]

Painting is done on the rear end. I also painted the drive shaft. I'm hoping to have the differential cover, springs and sway bars soon so I can get this thing back together.
Here's some before and after pics of the rear end.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/1-2.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/2-1.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/3.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/4.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/5.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/6.jpg

[68fastback]

Very nice!! :wtg:

[onecrazydog]

Awesome!! Cool garage too...

[onecrazydog]

Awesome!! Cool garage too...

[Gr8snkbite]

Looks great Alan.....those ramps look familiar.....:innocent:

[Tommy Gun]

Should have added an aluminum driveshaft. :groan:

.

[ati]

Should have added an aluminum driveshaft. :groan:

.

If I had the extra money I would have. Mod money is a little tight right now. Work has picked up some but were still a far way off from normal.


Happy Easter

[68fastback]

Happy Easter, Alan and all!

[Tommy Gun]

Very understandable :grin:

[Alloy Dave]

I never thought about brake cleaner, I've always used lacquer thinner. It evaporates very quick like brake cleaner. I'm also going to swap out the springs and sway bars as long as I have the rear end out. Just waiting on prices from Mr. JoeGI've used brake cleaner hundreds of times on differential covers back when I was a grease monkey...no issues with it. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin, it will dry out your fingers quickly.

[68fastback]

...ooops, wrong thread -lol

[Tommy Gun]

I've used brake cleaner hundreds of times on differential covers back when I was a grease monkey...no issues with it. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin, it will dry out your fingers quickly.


I'd use gloves w/ brake cleaner whether you have sensitive skin or not.

[Alloy Dave]

I'd use gloves w/ brake cleaner whether you have sensitive skin or not.:gay:

[Tommy Gun]

:tiphat2:

[ati]

I have a small gear oil leak that started. Its not leaking from the gasket but you can see evidence of seepage on the (left)Load Bolt thread. It has never leaked since I installed it over a year ago. Sunday I took the car out of the garage and the floor was clean, I put about 200 highway miles on it and put it away. Monday I took it out again and noticed a drop of oil on the floor. I pulled the car up on ramps and traced the leak to the load bolts.
Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix this???

I was thinking of pulling the cover and wrapping the threads of the load bolts with Teflon tape to seal them.



Ford Racing M-4033-G2

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g21.jpg

[The Bone]

That is what i would do. You could also use anti-seize.

[Tommy Gun]

I'd try to fix it first from the outside.

Remove the load nut and either use some hi-temp silicone or an o-ring on the hex-bolt then re-torque nut and see how it does.




And for the record I never used so many hyphenated words in one sentence in my life. :faint:

.

[ati]

I'd try to fix it first from the outside.

Remove the load nut and either use some hi-temp silicone or an o-ring on the hex-bolt then re-torque nut and see how it does. And for the record I never used so many hyphenated words in one sentence in my life. :faint:

.

Good Idea, Now you got me thinking.
I don't remember how long the load bolts are.
Do you think if I back off the load bolts all the way there will be enough thread exposed on the outside of the cover to seal the threads properly?

[Tommy Gun]

Good Idea, Now you got me thinking.
I don't remember how long the load bolts are.
Do you think if I back off the load bolts all the way there will be enough thread exposed on the outside of the cover to seal the threads properly?


I don't remember how far out those Allen headed bolts come out, but I would "guess" there is enough room to coat them w a sealant and re-torque.

[ati]

I don't remember how far out those Allen headed bolts come out, but I would "guess" there is enough room to coat them w a sealant and re-torque.

I agree and Its definitely worth a try. The first method I will try is backing out the load bolts far enough to coat them with sealant or Teflon tape and re-torque. The only hassle is that I have to remove the panhard bar to get a torque wrench on the torque nuts. The leak is very minor but I still want to correct it. Don't know when I'll get to it but I will post up my results here when I get it fixed.

[68fastback]

...actually, it may be good that you can only back 'em out so far because you may not want selant/tape on the 'interior' threads that could affect torque readings.

[Tommy Gun]

...actually, it may be good that you can only back 'em out so far because you may not want selant/tape on the 'interior' threads that could affect torque readings.


These load bolts snug up against the caps to "help" keep them from floating/moving under engine load if I understand correctly?

Although a torque is given to set them, I don't "think" it's super critical how close it is?

You torque the bolts, then you have to tighten the nuts to hold them there which in my opinion can move the bolt a bit...so the torque would be off a bit anyhow.

If that makes sense. Lol

[68fastback]

...yep, makes sense.

[Carnut]

Makes sense to me too.

[Tommy Gun]

:faint:

[Alloy Dave]

Is the fluid level above those bolts? If not, why could you not take them all the way out and then put them back in? One thing for sure...I'd make sure every surface where the sealant will be is as clean and free of oil as possible...that stuff won't seal if you put it on oily threads. And then once you install it, allow it to dry for several hours before using it.

[ati]

Is the fluid level above those bolts? If not, why could you not take them all the way out and then put them back in? One thing for sure...I'd make sure every surface where the sealant will be is as clean and free of oil as possible...that stuff won't seal if you put it on oily threads. And then once you install it, allow it to dry for several hours before using it.

The fluid level is just below the load bolts. You can't remove the load bolts from the outside because the load bolt ends are bigger than the bolt. (see pics) The best I will be able to do without removing the cover is to back off the bolts, clean the threads, apply thread sealant or Teflon tape and then re-torque them.

1262912630

[Alloy Dave]

The fluid level is just below the load bolts. You can't remove the load bolts from the outside because the load bolt ends are bigger than the bolt. (see pics) The best I will be able to do without removing the cover is to back off the bolts, clean the threads, apply thread sealant or Teflon tape and then re-torque them.

1262912630ah...ok...thanks for the new photo, that helps a lot.

[ati]

:tiphat:

[Tommy Gun]

:uwelcome:


Lol

[Carnut]

Back out the bolts, remove the nuts and washers, spray with brake clean, let it dry, goop theads up with silicone sealant, tighten bolts, add more silicone to washer nut and threads, install washer and nut, wipe of excess, let dry overnight, leak should be gone. You could also buy a Permatex blue thread sealant in a tube to put on the bolt threads if you want a little better insurance against it leaking.

[papashelby]

The fluid level is just below the load bolts. You can't remove the load bolts from the outside because the load bolt ends are bigger than the bolt. (see pics) The best I will be able to do without removing the cover is to back off the bolts, clean the threads, apply thread sealant or Teflon tape and then re-torque them.

1262912630

Alan, I think you are incorrect. The load bolts are submersed in the dif fluid. I've got the same cover on my car, and I filled until the fluid came out the fill hole.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/m4033g21.jpg

I think Nut might be on the right track. If I remember correctly, (I did this last fall and I'm old), I believe I put blue permatex on the the load bolt threads before I torqued them, then filled the dif. You may have to drain most of your fluid, clean everything really good, and start over. Sucks!
And not to hijack, but I did this mod because I have the noise in the rearend when turning hard rights or lefts. It did not fix that issue, even with the friction modifier, almost seems worse now. My ford dealer says this is normal, I don't think so...

[Tommy Gun]

I hope you filled to the fill hole on the "axle" and not the cover.

Axle is actually only really filled like half way when filled to the "axle" fill hole.

Being there is not much/or any? pressure here, I think a fix from the outside will work.

Only issue I see is getting it clean enough to get a good seal.

Heat may be the only factor causing the leak....expansion/contraction.

[Carnut]

I hope you filled to the fill hole on the "axle" and not the cover.

Axle is actually only really filled like half way when filled to the "axle" fill hole.

Being there is not much/or any? pressure here, I think a fix from the outside will work.

Only issue I see is getting it clean enough to get a good seal.

Heat may be the only factor causing the leak....expansion/contraction.

:iagree:

[Tommy Gun]

:uwelcome:

[papashelby]

I hope you filled to the fill hole on the "axle" and not the cover.

Axle is actually only really filled like half way when filled to the "axle" fill hole.

Being there is not much/or any? pressure here, I think a fix from the outside will work.

Only issue I see is getting it clean enough to get a good seal.

Heat may be the only factor causing the leak....expansion/contraction.


So TG, what you are saying, is I screwed up and need to remove some fluid to be at the correct level? Isn't there an overflow where it would leak from if too much fluid was in it? (I've got no leaks) I put in about 2 1/2 quarts at the time including the friction modifier. From reading a different thread on a different forum, they recommend a total of 68 oz.s (2qts and 4 oz.s), so I've got 10 oz.s too much. Need to remove???

[ati]

Alan, I think you are incorrect. The load bolts are submersed in the dif fluid. I've got the same cover on my car, and I filled until the fluid came out the fill hole.


I think Nut might be on the right track. If I remember correctly, (I did this last fall and I'm old), I believe I put blue permatex on the the load bolt threads before I torqued them, then filled the dif. You may have to drain most of your fluid, clean everything really good, and start over. Sucks!
And not to hijack, but I did this mod because I have the noise in the rearend when turning hard rights or lefts. It did not fix that issue, even with the friction modifier, almost seems worse now. My ford dealer says this is normal, I don't think so...

Rick,
I filled to the fill hole on the axle, not the cover. The fill hole in the axle is below the load bolts. I'm going to try TG's suggestion and back out the load bolts clean the threads and apply thread sealer or Teflon tape and re-torque. If it works great if not then this fall I will just pull the cover.

[Tommy Gun]

So TG, what you are saying, is I screwed up and need to remove some fluid to be at the correct level? Isn't there an overflow where it would leak from if too much fluid was in it? (I've got no leaks) I put in about 2 1/2 quarts at the time including the friction modifier. From reading a different thread on a different forum, they recommend a total of 68 oz.s (2qts and 4 oz.s), so I've got 10 oz.s too much. Need to remove???


The fill hole in the cover is much higher than the factory fill hole in the axle...I think much more than 10 oz?

If you run your car hard w too much fluid it would spit out the vent hose...especially on hard left hand turns.

If you drive your car like Joe you may never have an issue....although I have seen leaks at the ends of axles from overfill conditions too. :(

If nothing else, I would pull the axle fill plug out and see if some fluid comes out, let it level off and then put the plug back in.

.

[papashelby]

The fill hole in the cover is much higher than the factory fill hole in the axle...I think much more than 10 oz?

If you run your car hard w too much fluid it would spit out the vent hose...especially on hard left hand turns.

If you drive your car like Joe you may never have an issue....although I have seen leaks at the ends of axles from overfill conditions too. :(

If nothing else, I would pull the axle fill plug out and see if some fluid comes out, let it level off and then put the plug back in.

.

Thanks TG. I'll do that. Stupid question, is the axle fill plug just a rubber plug in the axle near the dif cover?

[Tommy Gun]

Thanks TG. I'll do that. Stupid question, is the axle fill plug just a rubber plug in the axle near the dif cover?


No, it's actually on the backside. It's a 3/8" hex plug if I remember right?


.

[Carnut]

http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.608007884324799094&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0you might want to try something like this, if you back out the bolt enough to clean the threads with carb or brake clean spray (put a rag over it when spray to keep it out of your eyes and other places) this stuff should sort of flow around the threads then you can screw it back in. Just saying.

[ati]

http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.608007884324799094&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0you might want to try something like this, if you back out the bolt enough to clean the threads with carb or brake clean spray (put a rag over it when spray to keep it out of your eyes and other places) this stuff should sort of flow around the threads then you can screw it back in. Just saying.

Were thinking alike Carnut.
I stopped this weekend and picked up a tube of Permatex Thread Sealant only I bought the hi-temp version.



http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u104/atilfi/51YY7WFYEYL.jpg

[Tommy Gun]

The red works faster than the blue anyhow. :wtg:


:look:

[Carnut]

:rofl3:

[ati]

OK I tackled the leak last night,
First I cleaned any gear oil residue from the axle and axle cover. then I removed the jam nuts and backed out the load bolts. The fully backed out load bolts exposed an additional 1/2" of the threads. I then cleaned the load bolt threads and surrounding area with carb cleaner and let dry. I then applied Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant and re-torqued the load bolts and jam nuts.
I only ran the car long enough to pull it off the ramps and will let it sit for 24 hours before driving it. If the weather is good this weekend I will take it out and run it and see if there are any leaks.
I will post up my results.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. :tiphat:

[Tommy Gun]

:look:

[Carnut]

:look:

[The Bone]

:tiphat:

[Tommy Gun]

Thanks TG.

[68fastback]

You're welcome. :giggle:

[Tommy Gun]

:tiphat2:

[Joe G]

Leak fixed? :waiting:

[ati]

Leak fixed? :waiting:

I haven't driven it yet. Hopefully this weekend.:chirp:

[Tommy Gun]

:waiting2:

[Carnut]

Is it the weekend yet?

[Tommy Gun]

For me it started this morning and every Friday morning.

[Joe G]

For me it started this morning and every Friday morning.

:rolleyes:

[Carnut]

Plenty of time to have driven it by now.

[Tommy Gun]

:goodpost:

[68fastback]

...by now the snow must have melted in NW Indiana :giggle:

Which reminds me, is it just here or was this the coolest July ever? ...not that I'm complaining but I don't think we more than 5 or 6 days over 80 and zero over 85. Most were upper-70s, realtiveloy low humidity and upper 40s to upper 50s at night -- it's been awesome, except if you want to go swimming -lol. Even 3.5 hours south of here at the grandkids, the big club pool was cool enough that you were out after 45 minutes. Must be global warming :haha:

[Tommy Gun]

80's here, usually in the 90's plus....but we have had more rain than we have ever had. :banghead:

[Joe G]

80's here, usually in the 90's plus....but we have had more rain than we have ever had. :banghead:

I'd move.

[Alloy Dave]

Hope that fixed it Alan.

Dan, to address your question...our Indianapolis news noted today that it was the coolest July on record. Global warming and all that you know.

[Tommy Gun]

Guess we'll never know.

He said he would tell us on the weekend.

When the weekend is gone, the opportunity is gone.

Unless he's a liar and tells us next week. :nonono:



Lol

[ati]

Update:
Cruised about 250 miles this weekend, about 150 of them at highway speeds and so far no leaks.:woohoo:

[68fastback]

Hope that fixed it Alan.

Dan, to address your question...our Indianapolis news noted today that it was the coolest July on record. Global warming and all that you know.

Interesting! So it's not just here ...and Alan's observations are consistent with the newspaper ...not too far away either

[Tommy Gun]

Update:
Cruised about 250 miles this weekend, about 150 of them at highway speeds and so far no leaks.:woohoo:


What leak? :look:

[ati]

What leak? :look:

:goodpost:

[Tommy Gun]

:grin:

[68fastback]

Update:
Cruised about 250 miles this weekend, about 150 of them at highway speeds and so far no leaks.:woohoo:

Great!! :wtg:

[Vette Killer]

Probably way too late to be of help but teflon tape and gear oil is not a good solution for long term...I would only use an anaerobic sealer that is compatible with gear lube...there are a ton of good ones out there, every major brand has at least one....the real benefit is they are designed to cure in the absence of oxygen, think the last tube I bought was $6

[The Bone]

welcome back VK. we missed you!!!

[Tommy Gun]

welcome back VK. we missed your avatar!!!



Fixed :popcorn:

[Joe G]

welcome back VK. we missed you!!!

:goodpost:

Fixed :popcorn:


:BetterPost:


:giggle:

[ati]

Probably way too late to be of help but teflon tape and gear oil is not a good solution for long term...I would only use an anaerobic sealer that is compatible with gear lube...there are a ton of good ones out there, every major brand has at least one....the real benefit is they are designed to cure in the absence of oxygen, think the last tube I bought was $6

Its never to late to add good info. I did consider using using teflon tape but I ended up using Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant. So far no leaks.
Thanks for the info :tiphat:

[papashelby]

The fill hole in the cover is much higher than the factory fill hole in the axle...I think much more than 10 oz?

If you run your car hard w too much fluid it would spit out the vent hose...especially on hard left hand turns.

If you drive your car like Joe you may never have an issue....although I have seen leaks at the ends of axles from overfill conditions too. :(

If nothing else, I would pull the axle fill plug out and see if some fluid comes out, let it level off and then put the plug back in.

.


Finally got around to checking this out. Apparently, I actually followed directions, weird, I never read directions. I pulled the plug and the fluid was right where it should be. Still have the rearend noise when doing the tight corners at low speed. I went to a different dealer, and had them check it out, they said the same thing, except, "do not" do the figure eights like Ford suggests. Not good for the clutch packs. Just live with the noise. Time to get some dynamat.

[Tommy Gun]

Finally got around to checking this out. Apparently, I actually followed directions, weird, I never read directions. I pulled the plug and the fluid was right where it should be. Still have the rearend noise when doing the tight corners at low speed. I went to a different dealer, and had them check it out, they said the same thing, except, "do not" do the figure eights like Ford suggests. Not good for the clutch packs. Just live with the noise. Time to get some dynamat.


Low speed? Is that even possible in a red car? How do you do that? Turn the key off?


.

[68fastback]

Finally got around to checking this out. Apparently, I actually followed directions, weird, I never read directions. I pulled the plug and the fluid was right where it should be. Still have the rearend noise when doing the tight corners at low speed. I went to a different dealer, and had them check it out, they said the same thing, except, "do not" do the figure eights like Ford suggests. Not good for the clutch packs. Just live with the noise. Time to get some dynamat.

Rick, they do not know of what they speak. :yes: If the clutch packs are glazed it's because they HAVEN'T seen ENOUGh biasing. It will not harm them one bit to do the following -- even multiple times ...until they un-glazed. Assuming you put new friction modifier in when you refilled (necessary) that will help deglaze them when you do the procedure. Don't listen to that dealer ...he was probably just trolling for a CF clutch-pack replacement job.

The trick is you have to bring the rear up to FULL ioperating temp (that's a good 30 min of highspeed driving or 15-20 min or really working it out on a back road or road course). THEN do 10 left-lock circles (not figure-8s) at a quick speed but that's NOT squealing the tires (you want 100% contact). THEN do 10 right-lock circles. Then take it for a leisurely drive for 15 minutes. If noise isn't then gone on turns, repeat (while all is still warmed-up) -- yu can do 20 lefts and rights if you prefer. If noise IS gone, test clutch-pack for adequate 'bias' by putting down some dark stripes. One tire might lag the other by a a foot or two but, if the CF clutch-pak discs are deglazed, both should ideally be identical length 'stripes.' If you, all is good.

[Tommy Gun]

Rick, TG is right. No way that red car of yours has a low speed cornering!


:tiphat2:

.

[Alloy Dave]

Rick, they do not know of what they speak. :yes: If the clutch packs are glazed it's because they HAVEN'T seen ENOUGh biasing. It will not harm them one bit to do the following -- even multiple times ...until they un-glazed. Assuming you put new friction modifier in when you refilled (necessary) that will help deglaze them when you do the procedure. Don't listen to that dealer ...he was probably just trolling for a CF clutch-pack replacement job.

The trick is you have to bring the rear up to FULL ioperating temp (that's a good 30 min of highspeed driving or 15-20 min or really working it out on a back road or road course). THEN do 10 left-lock circles (not figure-8s) at a quick speed but that's NOT squealing the tires (you want 100% contact). THEN do 10 right-lock circles. Then take it for a leisurely drive for 15 minutes. If noise isn't then gone on turns, repeat (while all is still warmed-up) -- yu can do 20 lefts and rights if you prefer. If noise IS gone, test clutch-pack for adequate 'bias' by putting down some dark stripes. One tire might lag the other by a a foot or two but, if the CF clutch-pak discs are deglazed, both should ideally be identical length 'stripes.' If you, all is good.

I recommend doing this procedure in Ferguson MO. :look:

[68fastback]

:spitcopy:

[papashelby]

Thanks Dan, for the advice. I will try this out ... if it ever stops raining. I've got this ear condition (Menieres disease), which in my case, gives me the ability to hear real low tones. Not good to have at any time, but really not good in the Shelby. The rear end sounds like it gonna fall apart to me. I had my daughter and son-in-law drive it this past weekend, and they couldn't hear much other than wind noise, unless they were doing the slow tight turns.

[papashelby]

http://stangsunited.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 68fastback http://stangsunited.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://stangsunited.com/showthread.php?p=308145#post308145)
Rick, TG is right. No way that red car of yours has a low speed cornering!





:tiphat2:

.

True, so true. I had to install a grab bar for Deb so she can hang on. She already pulled the door handle off.

[Boston Mike]

so why did this get closed for a little while???

[Tommy Gun]

http://stangsunited.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 68fastback http://stangsunited.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://stangsunited.com/showthread.php?p=308145#post308145)
Rick, TG is right. No way that red car of yours has a low speed cornering!






True, so true. I had to install a grab for Deb so she can hang on. She already pulled the door handle off.


Debs always looking for something to grab onto in my car too.

We are speaking of the same Deb right?


:rofl3:

[Joe G]

so why did this get closed for a little while???

I wonder if a Mod didn't accidentally click the Close Thread button when posting?

I did it once by mistake - it's easy to do if you don't watch what you click.

[Joe G]

Debs always looking for something to grab onto in my car too.

We are speaking of the same Deb right?


:rofl3:


:boink:

[Boston Mike]

I wonder if a Mod didn't accidentally click the Close Thread button when posting?

I did it once by mistake - it's easy to do if you don't watch what you click.

:conspiracy:

[68fastback]

Thanks Dan, for the advice. I will try this out ... if it ever stops raining. I've got this ear condition (Menieres disease), which in my case, gives me the ability to hear real low tones. Not good to have at any time, but really not good in the Shelby. The rear end sounds like it gonna fall apart to me. I had my daughter and son-in-law drive it this past weekend, and they couldn't hear much other than wind noise, unless they were doing the slow tight turns.

Ah, so maybe it's not that at all ...a glazed clutch pack will usually 'groan' when biased -- i.e. going around a turn. Initially some will only do it at a certain speed/curve rate. If rear tires have slightly different loaded radius due to substantially different aount of wear or one rear tire is just a pound or two under/overinflated from the other and you do mostly highway driving, that can glaze the discs in the pak over time. If you're hearing a more irregular sound or a knock or thump (vs a 'groan') that might not be the LS clutch-pak. Hard to say since it does vary, but typically it's a 'groan' on turns and usually lower-speed moderate turns, if that helps any. Sorry to be so vague -lol.

[Carnut]

Just reinforcing previous comments on the differential noise. I have had to do this on a couple vehicles, my method was simply tight left and right hand turns, drive it a bit, then repeat if necessary. Fixed everytime. It is caused by the clutch pack being a little too tight.

[papashelby]

Debs always looking for something to grab onto in my car too.

We are speaking of the same Deb right?


:rofl3:

:lol:

Unfortunately for me, I think you're talking about Joe's Deb. Apparently, my Deb is past that stage in her life. Don't tell her I said that.

[Tommy Gun]

I could make it work.

[papashelby]

Ah, so maybe it's not that at all ...a glazed clutch pack will usually 'groan' when biased -- i.e. going around a turn. Initially some will only do it at a certain speed/curve rate. If rear tires have slightly different loaded radius due to substantially different aount of wear or one rear tire is just a pound or two under/overinflated from the other and you do mostly highway driving, that can glaze the discs in the pak over time. If you're hearing a more irregular sound or a knock or thump (vs a 'groan') that might not be the LS clutch-pak. Hard to say since it does vary, but typically it's a 'groan' on turns and usually lower-speed moderate turns, if that helps any. Sorry to be so vague -lol.


Just reinforcing previous comments on the differential noise. I have had to do this on a couple vehicles, my method was simply tight left and right hand turns, drive it a bit, then repeat if necessary. Fixed everytime. It is caused by the clutch pack being a little too tight.


Just a little history on this grinding/groan. The car has just under 5,000 miles right now. The groaning started around 1,200 miles, and has gotten worse over time. The tires that I just put on, have maybe 300 miles on them. The majority of my driving is done at 60-65 MPH, with the usual run to 110-120 every other time I take it out.

Nut, when you say fixed every time, do you mean you never had to do it again with that particular car? Or, did it eventually come back?

Thanks for the help.

[Carnut]

Just a little history on this grinding/groan. The car has just under 5,000 miles right now. The groaning started around 1,200 miles, and has gotten worse over time. The tires that I just put on, have maybe 300 miles on them. The majority of my driving is done at 60-65 MPH, with the usual run to 110-120 every other time I take it out.

Nut, when you say fixed every time, do you mean you never had to do it again with that particular car? Or, did it eventually come back?

Thanks for the help.

The noise never came back after it was fixed in the particular car.

[Tommy Gun]

Nice thread :wtg:

[papashelby]

Didn't mean to hijack ATI's thread, but I just wanted to give a little update on my dif noise. Last weekend, I did 10 hard rights and 10 hard lefts, and then drove it for a while. And what do you know??? Most of the noise when I pulled into my drive is gone! Thanks guys, for pointing me in the right direction. That grinding/groaning was driving me nuts.

[68fastback]

Didn't mean to hijack ATI's thread, but I just wanted to give a little update on my dif noise. Last weekend, I did 10 hard rights and 10 hard lefts, and then drove it for a while. And what do you know??? Most of the noise when I pulled into my drive is gone! Thanks guys, for pointing me in the right direction. That grinding/groaning was driving me nuts.

:wtg:

Rick, next time you've been driving her for a while (preferably while weather is still warm and she's fully warmed) do 10 more lefts/rights and it will probably take any remaining noise away. I don't recall, had you just changed your diff fluid and added Friction Modifier? If not, next time you do change it, do the whole left/right thing again and it will scrub-down the disk surfaces nicely. The final test now is to put down some black marks ;-) and see if both lines start at nearly identical locations (withing a foot or so). If so, the clutch pack is sufficiently degladed to fully hook-up the limited slip and all is good. If not, another set of fully-warmed-up left/rights should do it.

[Joe G]

Didn't mean to hijack ATI's thread, but I just wanted to give a little update on my dif noise. Last weekend, I did 10 hard rights and 10 hard lefts, and then drove it for a while. And what do you know??? Most of the noise when I pulled into my drive is gone! Thanks guys, for pointing me in the right direction. That grinding/groaning was driving me nuts.

:uwelcome:

12770

[Tommy Gun]

So, if I want noise I should not turn left and right hard 10 times? :tease2:

[Carnut]

So, if I want noise I should not turn left and right hard 10 times? :tease2:

If you don't have noise already, use a handful of ball bearings in your oil, then turn hard left and right 10 times. If the noise is not enough, add more ball bearings.

[Joe G]

If you don't have noise already, use a handful of ball bearings in your oil, then turn hard left and right 10 times. If the noise is not enough, add more ball bearings.

Sand works well too. :wtg:

[Boston Mike]

That grinding/groaning was driving me nuts.

now you know how Mastermech must feel with Granny..........................

:sofa:

[Joe G]

:spitcopy:

[Boston Mike]

:spitcopy:

:bow:

[Tommy Gun]

I'll ask him....

[papashelby]

So, if I want noise I should not turn left and right hard 10 times? :tease2:


If you don't have noise already, use a handful of ball bearings in your oil, then turn hard left and right 10 times. If the noise is not enough, add more ball bearings.


Sand works well too. :wtg:


now you know how Mastermech must feel with Granny..........................

:sofa:


I'll ask him....

:spitcopy:

[JTB]

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/JTBConsulting/SHELBY/file_zpsaf1279d6.jpg~original (http://s404.photobucket.com/user/JTBConsulting/media/SHELBY/file_zpsaf1279d6.jpg.html)

Had one for over a year now, great mod…

I bought one my Fox Vert too.


http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/JTBConsulting/FOX%20Mustang/file_zpsaaef68e2.jpg~original (http://s404.photobucket.com/user/JTBConsulting/media/FOX%20Mustang/file_zpsaaef68e2.jpg.html)


http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/JTBConsulting/FOX%20Mustang/file_zps9a0f05bf.jpg~original (http://s404.photobucket.com/user/JTBConsulting/media/FOX%20Mustang/file_zps9a0f05bf.jpg.html)