2004 Ram 1500 HVAC

[twobjshelbys]

Well, the gas tank episode is concluded (at least for now) so on to the other big annoying thing that has been an issue for a couple of years.

The Ram series in this era had/has problems with the HVAC system "blend doors". There are two primary sets. One is the heat/cool blending process that shifts from heating to cooling. The other is the "function" doors that direct air flow from the floor through the passenger compartment to the defroster.

All of these doors are controlled by electric motors - 4 I think and fortunately they are all the same. But the main problem seems to be that the doors themselves break off the shaft at the point close to the motor and thus won't move.

I believe that my heat/cool blend has been stuck since before we moved here, so 10 years or so :(. But just recently the function selector has become less, er, functional.

Dodge wanted about 2K to fix it. Other shops were in the 1500 range.

It's a labor intensive task. You have to remove the whole dash.

Conventional wisdom is that you should also completely remove the HVAC assembly and replace the heater core and A/C condensor, but I'm not going to do that. Just the doors.

So today I started with the trim disassembly. I got the dash exposed and ready to remove the big bolts. Took about two hours trying to find all of the screws. I thought at first it would just be removing a few panels around where I saw the main dash fastening bolts to be, but because of the size of the lower trim pieces, the entire fascia had to be removed. Lots and lots of tiny screws. Several of which are the Mexican Jumping Screw variety and took time to tame down and be found. I still think I might have lost one. Also electrical connectors had to be disconnected to get the panels free. I labeled the less obvious ones so I know where they go. I also tried to account for the screws with blue tape and counts.

Anyway, this is where the process stopped today. Next is to drop the steering wheel and remove the dash itself.

[twobjshelbys]

30174

[twobjshelbys]

I believe that if it was only the heat/cool blend door that I could save removing the entire dash and expose that region by removing the air bag cover and air bag assembly. This is not really difficult. But the function doors reside in the space behind the center console area where the radio is and so the entire dash has to be "removed". Actually, just displaced. I believe it might be possible to do it without dropping the steering wheel but I think it might just be easier to drop it and then just have the dash "lay down" instead of trying to twist it off center.

Also, conventional wisdom is to also replace the drive motors at the same time. Fortunately they are readily available and all the same part number.

In watching some of the videos on the subject one guy highly recommends a company that, having seen tons of blend doors from many manufacturers fail in exactly the same manner, makes a complete set of the doors from billet aluminum. Cost is about $350 for the entire set. I'm going to go back and try to find this and will quite possibly replace them with the higher quality parts.

The reason I'm doing this is that while the truck is mostly a "convenience" vehicle that I use in town, and the inconvenience of the HVAC issues hasn't forced me to fix it, the likelihood is that when we go back to Colorado this year we will take the truck, even at the cost of gas it's a more comfortable vehicle on the long trip.

[Alloy Dave]

Yes, I'd try to understand WHY they are breaking...if it's because they are binding due to tight fit, maybe sand the edges of the new doors slightly (if plastic). Or as you say use billet....although I'd be concerned with metal doors expanding due to the high coefficient of expansion for most metals. Looks like a big job...I use tiny pill bottles to keep screws sorted when I do jobs like that. Hope it goes well.

[Tommy Gun]

Wow, looks like a big job. :wow2:



.

[twobjshelbys]

In reviewing a 2 hour video it looks like I didn't need to remove the fascia parts on the passenger side. Oh well. But I will have to remove the steering wheel. The reason is that the blend doors require the HVAC box be removed and split in half so there won't be enough room to pivot the dash to get to the center area. The heater core has to be disconnected and the whole HVAC box "slid forward" and the top removed. Some remove the whole box but that requires the A/C freon lines be disconnected and with some other loosening of A/C parts it can be His method of sliding it forward gives enough room. This wouldn't be necessary but their subcontractor made it up side down - the screws ARE ON THE BOTTOM so you have to move it back to get access to the back half.

Since I have to pull the box I will probably replace the heater core.

I can see why they charge 2K to do this...

[twobjshelbys]

Yes, I'd try to understand WHY they are breaking

...

I use tiny pill bottles to keep screws sorted when I do jobs like that. Hope it goes well.

Why they are breaking? I'm not sure I care. The truck is almost 20 years old and if it fails again it'll be the problem of the next owner.

I use the little containers that you get condiments in the restaurant. Clear plastic thingies with a clear plastic lid.

[twobjshelbys]

Saw another video and it looks possible to remove dash without removing steering wheel, just drop it on seat and the dash can be lifted out. However to rebuild doors is necessary to completely remove hvac box since some of the mechanical levers are at the firewall so I'll have to have air conditioner pumped before. Tha truck doesn't have cabin air filter and all pics in videos have an ac coil that is plugged with dirt and little hope to clean it so most like want to replace it too. The place with Alloy baffles said motors are usually good.

[Highwayman]

I replaced the blend door on my 2010 Explorer, same situation with massive disassembly and reassembly just to change a simple part. I had taken pictures as I was disassembling it so I would have an idea on how everything went back together but apparently I didn't keep them to share here. I also watched several videos on YouTube before I started and used the best information from each of them to guide me how to proceed and most importantly what not to do.

[twobjshelbys]

When I disconnect the electrical or other connectors I put a piece of blue sticky tape on each part with a "A" on both sides for the first one, "B" for the second, etc. Most connectors aren't interchangeable but the blue tape helps find both ends since sometimes they're hidden.

[twobjshelbys]

Going to pace myself on this. Can't stress the back too much.

Today took the truck to get the air conditioner evac'd. I asked the guy how much it would be to do the whole job. His estimate was 2200 and that didn't include doing the heater core or A/C evap coil. I was going to have him disconnect the A/C tubing at the firewall since I don't have the tool. Our friend here reminded me that Auto Zone "loans" them - you purchase the tool and when returned you get a refund. He has a different style that might work thta I'll try.

Then today I disconnected some more minor electrical things and have the major bolts out of the dash. Tomorrow is under-dash electrical and pull it out.

Once I have the HVAC box out I'll crack it open and assess the insides. Probable list:


I'm definitely going to replace all the doors. This place has a nice set, all billet:

https://www.blenddoorusa.com/products/3rd-gen-ram-02-09-with-single-zone-climate-control-complete-kit


actuators: But they advise using OEM actuators which are not made any more instead of 3rd party due to failures because of the differences about how they behave at the end stops. In the event I need the actuators then Dorman sells actuators and doors that have a metal (instead of plastic) shaft end. I'm not sure it makes much of a difference since if the motor does have too much torque at the stop the motor shaft will likely wear off from the metal collar instead of the softer plastic collars on the original..


Heater core: More of a safety thing. Many reports in the overall R&R community about the O-rings on the core failing after age and removal. Plus, it'll probably be the first thing in the reubuilt box to fail so just as well replace it. It'd be an insurance policy.


A/C evap coil: Having to disconnect the A/C to remove the box makes this a candidate. It'd be based on how it looks. Pictures of them look awful - most are caked with mud. The box doesn't have a serviceable air filter and all air passes over the evap coil so the coil becomes a filter and all I've seen look clogged. My experience is these don't clean out well so if it's dirty I'll just replace it for better air flow.

With decisions post-disasselbly and the parts availability this could stretch on for a few weeks.

[Tommy Gun]

Why they are breaking? I'm not sure I care. The truck is almost 20 years old and if it fails again it'll be the problem of the next owner.

I use the little containers that you get condiments in the restaurant. Clear plastic thingies with a clear plastic lid.


Which restaurant did you take them from? :popcorn:


:haha:


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[Tommy Gun]

I find it strange that you can find billet doors for these, must be a lot of people doin* this for someone to go through the trouble.


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[twobjshelbys]

Which restaurant did you take them from? :popcorn:


:haha:


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We go there alot and they just gave me some.

[Tommy Gun]

:wow2:


Lol

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[twobjshelbys]

Dash out.

30181

Just dropped steering wheel no remove. Air box tomorrow

30182

[twobjshelbys]

Preview of Air box blend doors. This is the fresh air/recirc door on the floor

30183

Broken collar

30184

My guess is they all look like this

[twobjshelbys]

Never had an ac apart. Need to disconnect the lines at the firewall to the evap coil. Says I need these tools. Can't find what they are called

30185

I lo9ked at the lines and there are some collars on the two parts that look like they hold them together but the inside looks like it just has o rings. I expected some split ring clips but don't see any. What is the process for disconnecting the tubes?

[twobjshelbys]

You know, this is kind of fun. My grandpa taught me how to take unknown things apart and put them back together. One of his key points was never force anything (that isn't rusted, etc) . If you have to apply undue gorgeous there's probably something else in the way. Remember when they put it together they didn't want to force stuff either. Still holds true today

The only thing I wish they woukd do is standardize the way the electrical connector release clips are made. Too many different types. This time I only broke one. The obdii connector is a one time insert and cannot be removed. Have to take the meatl mounting bracket with the dash

[The Bone]

Make sure you plug the AC line do no dirt gets inside but I don't need to tell you LOL
If there are any dash parts you want to add or replace now is the time. I had the dash out of my 68 Mustang and it didn't have a clock so I added one and it sure looks nice. I also replaced my dash lights with LED's they don't dim but not many LED's do.

[twobjshelbys]

Make sure you plug the AC line do no dirt gets inside but I don't need to tell you LOL
If there are any dash parts you want to add or replace now is the time. I had the dash out of my 68 Mustang and it didn't have a clock so I added one and it sure looks nice. I also replaced my dash lights with LED's they don't dim but not many LED's do.

Yes, while it's out I'm going to re-route the bluetooth radio phone microphone. It was just stretched across the bottom area, I'm surprised it never got cut from vibration.

Also, the radio (Alpine, I think) display has always been dim. I read the instructions and there is a connection for a dimming control wire that I don't think they connected when it was installed - "not part of the harness" as I recalled. I have the original radio still (I don't know why) so I should be able to figure out which wire is the dimmer and see if I can put it in the harness.

[twobjshelbys]

All apart. Air box out and open. All doors had something either broken shaft or stops or both. Air conditioner coil looks good only minor pine needles. Heater core looks ok but I'll replace it anyway.

30186

I'll order parts then clean it inside and out before putting it together

[twobjshelbys]

30187

Mode door.

[Alloy Dave]

You are doing it right, labeling and taking your time, lots of photos...great job. If possible (may not be), try to test door operation before you get it all back together. Slow but steady.

[twobjshelbys]

You are doing it right, labeling and taking your time, lots of photos...great job. If possible (may not be), try to test door operation before you get it all back together. Slow but steady.

Unfortunately, not possible to run them without assembling the whole thing. Dash has to go back on and have electrical connections to turn on the car. I might not have to bolt it all together but it does have to be in place. Won't be able to run A/C until I get it recharged.

[twobjshelbys]

Ordered the blenddoorusa kit. Dorman wasn't much less. Has metal connectors but plastic shafts. Blenddoor is single piece aluminum shafts. Only about 50 price diff

[The Bone]

Better quality parts is a good idea.

[twobjshelbys]

Got to replace all the foam weatherstripping where the box meets the dash vents. Some is falling apart, just as well replace the rest.

[twobjshelbys]

Rinsed and cleaned out the air box from dust and grime. No use in putting it back together dirty. Used 9+feet of weatherstripping

30240

Will vacuum and wipe down the firewall area too.

[twobjshelbys]

Sweet! All aluminum shafts

30242

[twobjshelbys]

New doors on place before closing box up

30243

[Tommy Gun]

Preview of Air box blend doors. This is the fresh air/recirc door on the floor

30183

Broken collar

30184

My guess is they all look like this


Are the broken pieces plastic that has broke down over time, or metal that has rusted and broke?

.

[Tommy Gun]

New doors on place before closing box up

30243



Man that box is huge. Lol

.

[twobjshelbys]

Are the broken pieces plastic that has broke down over time, or metal that has rusted and broke?

.

The shafts are plastic. There is a larger drive that goes on the gear of the motor. The motor is fairly high torque and runs the doors from limit to limit (I've seen references that the computer detects the over current from hitting the stop to turn off the motors, so the door is pushed on both extremes and causes the shaft to split.

The new ones are all aluminum. I'm not sure if this means the sacrificial part transfers from the flapper shaft to the actuator gear but we'll see and it'll not be my concern anyway. I'm sure the new parts will last longer than me. I might sell it anyway.

[Alloy Dave]

Do you need to lubricate those shafts? Not sure what the best approach would be on aluminum. Graphite?

[twobjshelbys]

I was able to test the actuators. Saw a video about an older version of the actuators that needed manual centering. Had to take the cover off snd adjust gears. Part of that kit included a 9v battery to touch the motor pins. Worked to do this test. Motors change direction with polarity change

By thecway if the Alloy shafts do eat the motor shaft they are reachable with much less disassembly

One concern related by the mfgr is the actuators. The mfgr says that 3rd party motors burn out because the doors are heavier. The oem ones were made by TRW and are superior. I am concerned about the actual blend doors. There are two in that position arranged by a master slave connector rod. That means one motor has to take the mass of two doors.

Everyone generically refers to them as blend doors but there are really 5 doors. One recirc door. Two blend doors on master/slave. Two mode doors each on separate actuators.

[Alloy Dave]

I'd just drill holes in the doors to make them lighter. :hilarious:

ok, bad joke...sorry...move along

[Tommy Gun]

I'd just drill holes in the doors to make them lighter. :hilarious:

ok, bad joke...sorry...move along





I’m just wondering why a guy in Vegas needs a heater?





:tiptoe2:


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[twobjshelbys]

I’m just wondering why a guy in Vegas needs a heater?





:tiptoe2:


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Occasionally need the heater in the winter but it's the "not heat" that I want. The doors were stuck in the mode where the blend was blending more heat than cold, so the air conditioning was actually suffering. Coupled with virtually no airflow because the intake door was on the floor of the recirc plenum. The last straw was the month or so ago when the modes (floor to defrost) got confused which I see now was because one of them was broken too. Some of this has been going since we moved here so just decided to fix all of them. I want it back like it was when new when I could age a side of beef in when the A/C was on. Trucks are kind of goofy that way - their A/C units are sized more for a full-sized SUV so a small cabin (mine is a quad cab) get really good A/C.

[Tommy Gun]

Just messing Tony. Thought you remembered I said don’t take me too serious back in 2011. :look:


.

[twobjshelbys]

Just messing Tony. Thought you remembered I said don’t take me too serious back in 2011. :look:


.

And I was just saying what prompted this after all these years of living with bits and pieces due to the cost and lack of motivation (aka, procrastination).

I never would have tackled this without the internet. The videos really helped. You need to watch three (and a 4th helps) to get all the story and save time, like two of them said remove the steering wheel, one said just disconnect it from the dash and lay it down (they said on the seat but my seat went far enough back so it's on the floor) which gives lots more maneuvering room.

[twobjshelbys]

New heater core came late Friday. Got the box installed and dash is mostly done. A few remaining electrical connections then the surrounding trim to go back on. Hopefully get the A/C charged today or tomorrow.

[onecrazydog]

Nice project!!

[twobjshelbys]

It's all back together. No pictures because it's just a regular looking dash assembly although cleaner :) I connected everything except the air conditioner coolant lines since traditional thought is the O-rings should be replaced AND oil needs to be added to the system and I'm not sure where they do that (I'm know absolutely nothing about auto A/C systems except how to use them. )

The amount of air coming from the vents is amazing. I guess I never realized how much of a loss in flow the recirc door being on the bottom was. And the blend door really makes a difference - there is a real difference between cold and heat now! The functions actually work and can divert air from floor to defroster at gale force!

In fact, there is now so much flow that there is a whistle somewhere when the function is in the normal dash vent position with the fan on the highest setting. It has something to do with pressure since it disappears when I open a window. It could be getting past one of the doors or it could be the weatherstripping. I'll put up with it.

Tomorrow I'll bring it to the shop to get the air conditioner recharged. I think I'm not going to be happy with this - they charged me 80 bucks to drain and purge the system. But they never said anything about a credit for getting it filled...

[Highwayman]

It's all back together. No pictures because it's just a regular looking dash assembly although cleaner :) I connected everything except the air conditioner coolant lines since traditional thought is the O-rings should be replaced AND oil needs to be added to the system and I'm not sure where they do that (I'm know absolutely nothing about auto A/C systems except how to use them. )

The amount of air coming from the vents is amazing. I guess I never realized how much of a loss in flow the recirc door being on the bottom was. And the blend door really makes a difference - there is a real difference between cold and heat now! The functions actually work and can divert air from floor to defroster at gale force!

In fact, there is now so much flow that there is a whistle somewhere when the function is in the normal dash vent position with the fan on the highest setting. It has something to do with pressure since it disappears when I open a window. It could be getting past one of the doors or it could be the weatherstripping. I'll put up with it.

Tomorrow I'll bring it to the shop to get the air conditioner recharged. I think I'm not going to be happy with this - they charged me 80 bucks to drain and purge the system. But they never said anything about a credit for getting it filled...

As Roseanne Roseannadanna would say "It just goes to show ya, it's always something"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPgoWxT1PMc

[Alloy Dave]

Great news! I bet that feels good to have it all working.

[Tommy Gun]

Still all good?



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[twobjshelbys]

Still all good?



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Still whistles when on normal front vent. I suspect it's because the weather stripping isn't seated on the dash mating surfaces. The original stripping was just foam one piece. I rebuilt it with house stripping that has a semi-gloss top surface. I suspect it doesn't compress well around the flanges from the dash side.

It does lessen sometimes when I hit a bump so I think it might "settle" into the final position.

I'll give it some time. It's too hot now to be messing around pulling the dash again. This time I wouldn't have to remove the whole thing - just the dash to expose the vent mating surfaces. The dash isn't all that hard. A couple of hours of work if it's not too hot

[Tommy Gun]

:wtg:


.

[onecrazydog]

:woohoo:

[twobjshelbys]

The saga continues...

Decided to take the truck back to Colorado last week. We get 5K miles per vehicle for insurance and will probably go a little over on the Honda since it's our daily driver and we took it back last year - perhaps two trips in a 12 month period.

Truck ran great. Gets lousy mileage - more in a bit... But the A/C froze us out and the baffles all worked as we expected. The whistling sound couldn't be heard on the road and we kept it in recirc (which doesn't have the issue) most of the time anyway.

But of course, something else breaks...

I went to adjust the seat to give my back a new position and the front up-down seat motor is dead. I'd replaced the rear one in 2011 or 2012 or so (before we moved here) so know the drill. Dodge WILL NOT SELL YOU A MOTOR!!! You have to buy the whole seat rail assembly. "twomenandagarage.com" and "genosgarage.com" sell the motors. They are a pain to remove. They use a press roll pin that but intend the pin only to be inserted from the inside of the seat assembly towards the outside rail. There isn't room to get a pusher between the rail and motor to push the pin the other way so you have to push it to the rail, cut it off, and push it all the way out. The hardware sells a 1/4" roll pin at the hardware store... Motor drops in and is otherwise easy to replace.

The twomen guys sell a gear rebuild kit and say that if the motor clicks it's probably the broken gear, but the gear set costs 50 and the motor is 89 - not enough to make a possible exchange worth it so I just ordered the motor. I'll do an autopsy on the motor to see if it is a failing gear and decide if I want a spare. I'm not planning on (1) keeping it long enough or (2) being around long enough for it to matter.

Neighbor has a truck of the same generation so he'll order the motors (he needs both) and do a garage and beer mechanics day... Might have to wait a bit though since the garage temp is really warm right now - we're into the 110s days.

[twobjshelbys]

Re truck mileage...

My mechanic friend said he'd been doing an old trick. The old wives tale is to add 1oz of 2 cycle oil to the gas tank for every 5 gallons of gas. So I decided to give it a try. I had some oil left and had enough to do one way so I added it on the way to Co and didn't on the way back. The fuel stops work out very well with potty and snack stops to stop at the same locations going both directions. Here's the results



Segment

Eastbound MPG from above
Westbound MPG from above


Vegas - Salina UT

14.8
15.2


Salina UT - Palisade, CO
16.7
13.8


Palisade - Westminster
16.8
15.6


Local CO

15.2





Two of the eastbound legs show some positive results but the first segment is lower than expected. The first (and last) leg are only .4mpg different so I attribute that to the 80mph speed limit for most of that segment. But the 13.8 mpg return seems anomolous so I'm not positive of the outcome... But the 16-ish eastbound legs are consistent and the first and last westbound are close. and the eastbound is better than the westbound. So, there might be something here or there might not be...

Anyone else ever tried this?

[Tommy Gun]

Ever heard of doing that. Hmm..


.

[The Bone]

I don't think 2 stroke oil did anything to increase millage. Many factors effect millage temperature wind passing other cars. I do think that gas motors benefit from hotter coils. The better the spark the better the burn. I also think but don't know for sure that oil in the fuel will add carbon to the cylinder.

[twobjshelbys]

I don't think 2 stroke oil did anything to increase millage. Many factors effect millage temperature wind passing other cars. I do think that gas motors benefit from hotter coils. The better the spark the better the burn. I also think but don't know for sure that oil in the fuel will add carbon to the cylinder.


The theory is that it helps to increase the AFR which tricks the trims into leaning out a little. I ran the monitor and didn't see that it was enough to matter... The problem is that the mountain driving (grade changes plus altitude changes) are a much more dominating factor which is why the results vary.

The oil was 10 years old and I needed to use it up anyway. Now I can get a new smaller container for the leaf blower that I use a couple of times a year and dump the mixed gas into the car so it doesn't sit too long.

[The Bone]

I use Stay-Bill in all my gas for lawn equipment. I also have one can of mix for my weed eater. I bought 10 gallons of gas when it was cheap $4 LOL. It should be good for a while.

[twobjshelbys]

I use Stay-Bill in all my gas for lawn equipment. I also have one can of mix for my weed eater. I bought 10 gallons of gas when it was cheap $4 LOL. It should be good for a while.

My experience with 2 cycle gas/oil mix is that it is already pretty "stable" in storage. I had some year-old-plus stuff for chain saw, small tiller and leaf blower that ran stuff great.

Straight gas in a can for the power washer on the other hand didn't "look" right. There was only about half a gallon so I diluted it in the car's tank and went and got another gallon that half of it sat for a year :)

[onecrazydog]

Straight gas in a can for the power washer on the other hand didn't "look" right. There was only about half a gallon so I diluted it in the car's tank and went and got another gallon that half of it sat for a year :)

Gas loses octane levels fairly quickly...

[twobjshelbys]

Gas loses octane levels fairly quickly...

I'm guessing those things don't care too much about octane. 2 cycles aren't too concerned about knock :)

[twobjshelbys]

OK, decided to do some easy maintenance. Just drove it to Colorado and remembered since it hit the 100K mark it was time to change the plugs.

Book says to refer to emissions label. Label says to use RE14MCC4 which translates to a copper tip. Pulled one and it's a Champion 3570 which is a platinum... I'm pretty sure I never changed them and the service book does say 100K so I'm pretty sure the 3570s were the original plugs...

So now the choices are to stay with the original - worked fine - or to go to Double Platinum or Iridium...

Which would any of you suggest???

Note, I got 100K miles and the plugs look great except for the eroded tips. Plus it's taken almost 20 years to put the first 100K miles, so I don't want to spend $15 exotic plugs since I can't justify the cost vs time - the truck will on the present curve, outlast me...

Here's a pic of the one I pulled.

30360

Also, I really had to lean on it to pull it. The Dodge forum suggests using anti-seize. Is that appropriate? Also, need to find torque spec which is not in the book.


Edit: My friend and mechanic (now consultant) says the truck probably had copper plugs and he put in the platinum plugs a the 30K service. My receipts are all faded but there is one for $600-ish so I'm pretty sure they were done then. So I've gotten 70K on them which is what he said he expected (even though they say 100K). He uses Iridium now so I went with the Champion 9403. Got them for $5 ea from Rock Auto. Truck takes 16!!!

[onecrazydog]

I would stick with original plugs, and yes use some copper anti seize on the threads!!


Raptor takes 16 plugs too...

[Tommy Gun]

Yep, no issue w a touch of anti-seize some had issues w putting to much then it became a bad thing. :(

.

[twobjshelbys]

Yep, no issue w a touch of anti-seize some had issues w putting to much then it became a bad thing. :(

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The other side says that it affects torque spec. I think mine were over torqued... One spec I see says 12-15 another 20+... More research necessary.

[The Bone]

Anti-seize will give you a better torque reading. I use it on mine just stay away from the electrode. As for the plug tip i would stay with what you have.

[Tommy Gun]

See everyone has an opinion on anti-seize. Lol


.

[twobjshelbys]

These are tapered plugs. Most say just tighten then 1/8-1/4 turn more. It not to exceed 15lbft. I think the 20lbft was for the plugs with the washer. My mechanic says no antiseize

It's hotter than hades here so work a little then take a break. Two driver side are a bear. Need two extenders and u-joint. Got stuck on last left side last night. Before supper. Dr appt this morning so hope to get the rest out before lunch

[Tommy Gun]

Have you done these before?


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[twobjshelbys]

Have you done these before?


.


Nope. Got them all out. Actually the plugs aren't so bad, but the bolts holding the ignition packs are blind and short access. A Real Pain In The A** getting to the back one on passenger side with AC line interference and the two on the driver side with the brake cylinder and other hard lines. The new ones came FEDEX from Rock Auto. Start putting them in this morning. It's been cloudy with monsoons yesterday and today so not too awful hot out.

Edit: Got it done. Went back together a lot easier than it came apart. All in all this comes close to the category of drywall: I have done drywall and prefer to leave it to those that can do it faster. Changing these plugs is a bear. Inaccessible coil pack screws and bad backs don't get along. I couldn't (literally) crawl up on top of the engine like the guy in the video. So it might be worth $200 to have someone do it. I paid 80+shipping for the plugs so that leaves $120 for labor which is kinda skinny... More than that and I'd do it myself... What would take them 1.5-2 hours took me closer to 4 or 5 all totaled for back rest breaks...

[Tommy Gun]

:wtg:



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[twobjshelbys]

Next on the list is a transmission fluid/filter job and a total coolant flush. I'll take these somewhere.

[Alloy Dave]

Glad you got it done...gives you satisfaction and you know it was done to your standards. I completely agree with your comment about letting some things be done by others...and as I get older that list grows longer and longer. I doubt I'll be mowing my own grass when I'm 75 years old. I still do my own oil changes, brake jobs, and batteries...but most other things I'll have done by a shop. Fortunately, since we've stayed in "newer" cars the past 10 years and they are mostly Hondas/Toyotas/Lexus...those types of needs are very infrequent.

[Alloy Dave]

Next on the list is a transmission fluid/filter job and a total coolant flush. I'll take these somewhere.
Coolant flushes on some modern vehicles can be a bear! My 1989 MR2 had 3 different air bleeds you had to open...took a long time to do that coolant flush!

[twobjshelbys]

Coolant flushes on some modern vehicles can be a bear! My 1989 MR2 had 3 different air bleeds you had to open...took a long time to do that coolant flush!

525 for transmission service and coolant flush. These are things best done with a lift and proper drain pans.

[The Bone]

I have to do this on my truck. Oil and antifreeze needs to be looked at. Trying to decide if just adding the treatment or doing the transmission. Oil has to be changed. Going to Tennessee for a trip.

My neighbor down the street has a 2000 D1500 and the paint looks like crap so I am buffing the paint out for him. I just did the hood and it does shine now. It's not perfect but you can see yourself in the paint. Before you couldn't see a reflection of anything. The guy is a Korea war veteran. So I help him as much as I can. Took me about 2 hours just to do the hood. The roof is next. Going to buy the wool pad today.

[twobjshelbys]

I have to do this on my truck. Oil and antifreeze needs to be looked at. Trying to decide if just adding the treatment or doing the transmission. Oil has to be changed. Going to Tennessee for a trip.

My neighbor down the street has a 2000 D1500 and the paint looks like crap so I am buffing the paint out for him. I just did the hood and it does shine now. It's not perfect but you can see yourself in the paint. Before you couldn't see a reflection of anything. The guy is a Korea war veteran. So I help him as much as I can. Took me about 2 hours just to do the hood. The roof is next. Going to buy the wool pad today.

1. For Oil I've thrown in the towel. I take all my cars to Walmart for oil changes. They don't do radiator flushes and I needed the transmission service so I took it to AAMCO for tranny and they also did the coolant. Coolant is simple enough that I'd trust a place like Meineke or Pep Boys

2. The paint on my truck (silver) is looking like every other Vegas car after 20 years outside. The clear coat is disappearing but in my case it's only on panels that have had body work in the past. The factory finish is still good, except for the very top so I'm sure the rest will start fading pretty soon. I'm sure had I taken better care of it - like the attention I paid to the go-fast cars - things would be better. One weekend in 2009 after I had clay-barred and waxed the Shelby GT and Cobra I did the truck. Just the clay bar took a whole weekend. There's acres of paint on the truck :) My arms and shoulder hurt. Waxing with Turtle Wax Ice paste went much faster the next weekend but it was still a pretty good workout.

I'd get it painted but I'd gotten an estimate of around 3K and I just don't think it's worth putting that much into it. But I said that about 4K-5K ago with tires, brakes, all the fuel stuff, seat motors, plugs, trans service and coolant and other misc parts like plastic door grabs.

[Tommy Gun]

$3K sounds high if you’re just looking for a simple paint job to last a few more years.

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[twobjshelbys]

Well, it seems as though something is going to go on a weekly basis.

Yesterday when we were going to lunch with friends I turned the key on and hit the starter. I noticed that the battery gauge was about 1/2 way and slowly approached the normal position. Turned it off and it repeated. I have a video but don't want to take the hassle to post it to youtube.

My mechanic tells me the likely culprit is the alternator. No sagging during start so it's not likely the battery.

Fortunately the alternator is top mounted and looks fairly easy to replace.

Just another thing to watch for the time being.

[twobjshelbys]

$3K sounds high if you’re just looking for a simple paint job to last a few more years.

.


Like I said, acres of paint...

[onecrazydog]

$3K sounds high if you’re just looking for a simple paint job to last a few more years.

.

It cost almost a grand just to paint my tailgate... That's why I made them re paint it properly...

[Tommy Gun]

:surprised:


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